RestorFX.... real or bullshit?

While the end result might be similar, one will have the risk of having a super thin clear vs. having the OEM paint corrected and then some. Sure ideally its not the right way to approach detailing, but it still works as advertised.

 

The scratches etc are gone, filled in by the new clear coat. Just like wetsanding a car between coats of clear. The clear won't flake, it'll polish out / burn through just like regular clear coat.

 

My point is Ken why defend something that is not the optimum way to do something?, as I stated just because someone says it works does not mean it works by the correct definition especially "Quick buck artists" that appeal to 50% ers who take shortcuts.

Capable individual compared to whom?, not guys who do things properly and it works by a lower standard...................much lower. Not trying to stir things up Ken as you know I like you but there is no way this stuff gets traction or it would have by now.......... I would use it if it performed...............but with my own eyes I saw that it did not.

 

*Mind Blown*...So truthfully, whats wrong with it? There has to be a catch!

 

Well i feel every product has their niche and while the other 99% of americans dont drive ferraris they can opt out to have their car look better for a fraction of the cost ,god knows id rather put this on my work horse of a truck then polish it

 

Hey Folks, new to this forum, I have an extensive background in the auto paint refinish sector of the industry. I am familiar with this and the many other hand applied clears, they all have their uses, and their limitations....... the way I use the hand applied is on wholesale jobs... I have had / have these products on our shop trucks and on two of my personal vehicles @ the moment. Would I put it on my Hot Rod , Or my High end English Cruiser.....NO!. I wish to "polish " my 1933 Dodge Bros, Base/ Clear and apply Carnuba to it, just me. The Bentley is Lacquer and ,as you all know, Lacquer is always soluble so any reduced clear shall DESTROY these particular bases.
Great forum, We are no B.S. folks , so if we are able to give good info on this particular type of product or any other that we are experienced with, ask and you shall receive.

 

The Bentley is lacquer...?

 

Hey Kaban,
a great many high end vehicles were acrylic lacquer well into the '90's. there were even some thermoplastic applications with RR/ B and Ferrari, Lambo.etc....of course now with the eco folks some things have changed, don't be fooled though I know of two shops that still have some supply of "old School" product and they will blow it on, if the price is right, the experimentation is always ongoing in this sector of the business. the H2O base coat may well be here , however the low voc solvent based clear is totally prevelant, and all my suppliers believe it shall be here for a while.

 

drew935,
you have a question on clear coat peeling / delaminating............. there is no way that a hand applied clear coat will SOLVE this issue, there are limits to it's suitablilty and compatibility. Delaminating/peeling is a paint problem and to apply another top coat product onto an unsuitable/ unstable substrate/ base is foolish. I have experimented with "feathering the edges/ wetting and polishing then appyling, with mixed results , none of the results would I put out on the street or on my cars, so the hand applied clears have a place , limited by the expertise of the applier and the paint anomoly to be corrected

 

I want to see a video with the key and screw driver marks taking out. The video doesn't show them taking them out.

 

It doesn't remove them, like polishing. It fills them in. The new layer of clear fills in all the imperfections, causing them to disappear.

 

Ok but would still be nice to see them apply it in the video.

 

HI , The only "demo" is the fella with the Jimmy, the fellas that run this show are Paronoid about the process. They even wanted the Same youtube video to be pulled. hey there is no smoke and mirrors with this splooge, it works , is effective , not for everyone, lasts and can be polished , and reapplied, I have two customers that do not polish out their vehicles anymore they have us apply this every year then turn back the lease vehicles and have had not one compaint from the lease guys, matter a fact the lease guys are looking at this for their sales lot.it is another revenue stream @ our facility, Takes some training, a little bit of practise and can be decent revenue.......... very transportable.

 

Ok guys. I can tell you that the product you refer to: Restorfx is a scam. I know this because I was a former licensee. I was so pissed at the fact that this product is very fairweather and doesn't last, not to mention the guys that run Restorfx are idiots. However, the concept was great and I could see possibilities. I teamed up with an old school body shop guru and we engineered what is now Rocket Restorkoat. I can tell you that Rocket Restorkoat is the real deal. I do 3-4 vehicles, boats, or RV's a day and would be happy to video myself applying. We are in the process of shooting an application video in the new year and it will be on the website. Feel free to have look at the website: www.rocketrestorkoat.com and let me know what you think. Just FYI:
Rocket Restorkoat is a hand applied polyurethane. Average thickness after cured application is 1-2 mils. Guaranteed for 3 years. Scratches, swirls, etc... are gone PERMANENTLY. It produces a flawless finish and the depth is insane.

 

Polyurethane on a vehicle's finish!? I'll pass...

 

if polyurethane is anything like spar urethane.... I'll pass too.

I did some headlights with spar urethane 50/50 mineral spirit solution... and over a few weeks the bug splatter that's common in the summers totally ate away at the finish and etched through the spar... so they looked like crap and needed to have the spar totally polished off.

I had a feeling that this Restorfx cannot last long and is most definitely very soft once it's cured.

 

So normal clear coat needs to have the vehicle finish prepped (sanded/scuffed) in order for it to adhere properly....how do this hand applied clear bond without any sort of prep???

 

You are kidding right? Spar urethane is specifically for "WOOD PRODUCTS". If you put this on your headlights and it didn't work I am not surprised.

Rocket Restorkoat is made up of both polyurethane and acrylic urethane, the same compounds on your basic base coat-clear coat paint finishes. So to say it doesn't work is talking through your hat without an educated opinion. The difference between Rocket Restorkoat and factory clear coat is ours is stronger and more UV resistant. And yes a surface does have to be prepped properly for adhesion. IT DOES NOT HAVE TO BE SANDED OR SCUFFED. I have applied this to boats and cars/trucks 2 years ago. They look as new and shiny as the day they were applied. We live in Alberta, Canada, which I can tell you is not forgiving on paint finishes. And some of these trucks are oilfield trucks to boot! We are presently working on a paint chip and scratch repair system that you can apply Rocket Restorkoat over. You will never have to repaint your car again! Average cost for paint chip/scratch repair and Rocket Restorkoat application will be around $650. Beats the hell out of a $4-6k paintjob.

 

You must be new here.... and by the way I am pretty sure it's against forum rules to just start advertising your product here.... clearly it's your product and you came here to advertise it....

 

Nope, I came here to educate. It is clear that you have no idea what you are doing. Who in the world puts wood urethane on their headlamps? You have no business making a judgement call when you do stuff like that. I answered the thread about why Restorfx doesn't work. I got a wealth of detailing knowledge to pass on. I've been doing it for 28 years.