have a car im polishing now, plan on hitting it with cg ez creme, then power lock then topping with autoglym hd to play around...anyone got any ideas how long to wait between steps?
In general, strong chemical bonding is associated with the sharing or transfer of electrons between the participating atoms. Molecules, crystals, and diatomic gases; indeed most of the physical environment around us—are held together by chemical bonds, which dictate the structure of matter. A polymer will form a strong bond with another clean polymer (urethane paint) surface; it will not bond well with metal. Bonds vary widely in their strength; generally Covalent and ionic bonds are often described as strong, whereas hydrogen bonds and van der Waals' type bonds are generally considered to be weak. The majority (70%) of a polymer matrix cross-linking cycle occurs within 30 – 45 minutes of its initial wipe-on application drying; however it is recommended that a period of 12 - 24 hours is allowed for the cross-linking process to complete, otherwise polymerization and durability may be compromised Although it should be noted that surface oils or silicone and / or moisture introduced before the cross-linking process is complete will interfere with the bonding of a polymer and will negatively affect its durability (See also Polymer Catalyzing Additives
hi , i got a cure time question too : as i live in a island ,my temperature is the most of time between 26° to 32°C (79°-90°F) sure she over 20 ° C (68°) me humidity is 60 to 90 ° (60 is dry ,90 is wet ) i'm sure it's affect the polymérisation but in wich way ??? i have hear that at more than 68°F this process can be half the time than minus 68°F can you tell me more?
The cure times given are based upon National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) Standard test conditions – 68. °F +/- 5. °F, 50% +/- 5%, relative humidity and an absolute pressure of 114.696 psi For other than standard conditions as stated above extrapolate
i'm sure you want to say 14,696psi i see a place about the viscosity of the product the oxygèn and polymèr can move more rapidly does anyone try a "hot sealent"
isla- you may be overthinking this. The majority (70%) of a polymer matrix cross-linking cycle occurs within 30 – 45 minutes of its initial wipe-on application drying; a swipe test is the best way to determine if it is ready to be removed; run your bare finger across the paint and if the product doesn't smear it is ready to be removed. However it is recommended that a period of 12 - 24 hours is allowed after the initial cross-linking for the process to complete, otherwise polymerization and durability may be compromised Although it should be noted that surface oils or silicone and / or moisture introduced before the cross-linking process is complete will interfere with the bonding of a polymer and will negatively affect its durability
I think you took the phrase about "extrapolate" to think that temperature will affect the curing (or "cross-linking"). Jon, with the comment about "extrapolote" are you stating curing time can be reduced with higher temperatures. If this was true, more sealant makers would say "park in sun" to accelerate curing.
i try to had a thin coat of wax and use the sweep test. as illustrate , i find a paper how talk about an acrylic spray , suitable for electronic ( it's extrapolation IMO) it's the first paper i have ever seen from a manufacturer . here the link : http://www.techspray.com/ts_resources/2108%20TDS%20042308.pdf they (in the paper) give an abiemt curing time and an other one , name's :accelerated cure the sealent manufacterer didnot tell us to dry their product with an UV spot for example 104° and it's take 2hours /// 149° take 20 min (what about any trim ?) it's an example of an other product ... the sealent manufacterer prefer tell us cure 12 /24H and we let it cure a night/day IMO i don't want every body wear alpinist sunglass and buff their car under 5 UV lamp :yikes: by uv spot i mean that i have see in a bodyshop for hydrodiluable paint see what i mean ??? beside this i must interrest with durogloss, Z , or Polycharger i read and understand that they do the job of fast curing and several coat/day isla.
You can accelerate the cure time (up to a point) with heat (infra red or natural sunlight) but cross-linking is both time and temperature dependent
[Cure time depends on a number of factors, including the method and thickness of application. Dilution will also change the cure profile. 149°F / 65°C is recommended as the best accelerated temperature to optimize leveling, providing the smoothest possible finish. A faster cure may be achieved, but should be thoroughly tested first.] This is OK for lab conditions on some materials (as opposed to urathene , which is a thermoplastic) but most detailer's do not have facilities/equipment to do this. So for practical / relevant discussions lets stick to materials / methods use for automotive detailing In accordance with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) a localized (spot) temperature of > 115.oF will cause the urethane clear coat to soften and we normally tranfer friction heat by using a foam pad, it will cause scratching that is forced deep into the clear coat
