Paint Oils?

Okay I got the product right infront of me the name of the product is Pro Form Wax and Grase Remover.

Here are some pictures:











Sorry for the blury pictures but at least you'll be able to get a few information from the pictures.

So my friend uses this for just about everything in his shop.

 

why do you have that carlos? I understand wanthing everything but body shop poducts? are you planning on taking marco polos advice?

 

um....maybe :shrug: :shh: don't know yet...my friend said I could use his shop any time I wanted...well almost anytime I want :shrug: it's always good to try something new and learn more good stuff :chest:

 

Prepsol is always good for removing tar, bugs, random things that you get on your paint. I don't see why you wouldn't want to have some in your collection. I am thinking about that 5 gallon bucket of body solvent....seems like a good deal.

 

Well when I told my friend that I was using a 50/50 alcohol wipe down after I polished he recommended that I stop using the 50/50 alcohol mix and use this product instead. He said that on some vehicles a 50/50 alcohol wipe down is not a good idea. I've used this product once or twice and if you ask me it does the same thing as the alcohol wipe down perhaps a bit safer but again I was following my friends suggestion..he knows more about this then me...as for the oils on the clear coat...that he had mix feelings about. This is what my friend said...oils don't penetrate through the clear coat, oils are basically on the surface of the clear coat but never go through to the paint it's self...so what you said about car shows I agree with you.

I can see where an alcohol wipe down would not be good on a single stage paint because your literally applying it to the paint and I can see the oils being good for single stage paint but on clear coat I would agree with my friend...but like I said he had mix feelings about that and admitted that he never paid much attention to the clear coat...he says that clear coat is just a protection but that's about all I could get from him about the oils on clear coat

My other friend that works at a different body shop said the same thing, you can't go through the clear coat with oils don't know that's two guys that work on vehicle painting them day in and day out and they are saying the same thing about clear coats and oils :shrug:

Now don't go thinking they are always right because they could be out to lunch on this but it is interesting :chips:

 

Next time I pass by his shop I'll ask him again why he told me not to use the alcohol (50/50) method..I just can't recall the reason :duh: I just remember him recomending not to use it...maybe there was no reason I'll ask :chips:

 

1.Using oil on an oil-based paint system (single stage and especially lacquers) would avoid oxidation (drying out)

2.Water-based paint (due to VOC regulations 99% of US paints) do not need oil to 'feed' the paint to prevent oxidation( despite what Zymol marketing want you to believe)

3.If you apply oil to a water-based polyurethane paint (clear coat) most of the particles used in oils cannot permeate polyurethane as its pores are smaller and the oil will 'sit' on the surface, which will not cause problems for wax products, but will not allow a polymer to cross-link.

4.Alcohol in the form of IPA will remove the oils, which may act as filler, giving the false appearance of a defect-free surface.

5.Oils may have a detrimental effect on polyurethane by causing its adhesive bond to ‘lift’, as a very small proportion of the particulates will be small enough to permeate.

Items 3 and 5 also apply to leather products when used on covered leather upholstery

 

Some obeservations. Some polishes like #80 allow other polishes to work easier. Some cars upon arriaval have a very "dry" clear coat, a lot of polishes gum up on them, if you go over it first with 80, the other polishes will work better. Even #7 will make a lot of polishes "work better".

I did a C320 a while back and it had been improperly washed a lot and was swirled terribly. All of my compunds wouldnt phase it, then I speed glazed it and then compounded/polished and it worked fine.

 

I think thats because whatever the person put on the car had silicons in it. Ive had that problem before too.

 

How would silicons effect how polishes work out of curiosity?

Also a lot of the pontiacs respond better if they get a pure polish first, not sure if anyone else has noticed that.

 

Wow and I thought I was the only one that noticed this, I've only seen this happend to me once and man was it ever a pain...mmmm...it was in the summer, I can't remember what I did though? I know I used something prior to polishing the vehicle but I honestly can't remember. I'm going to have to keep a close eye on this should it ever happen again, thank you for sharing.

So your saying you used Meg's #80 interesting :thinking:

 

Yeah meguiars 80 is one of my favorite products ever. I have gone through 4 gallons of it since I have started detailing but lately all of the cars I have been doing have had harder CC's so I quit buying it. (Still have a pint on stand by)

Its only problem is that if works great on softer paints but on harder paints it is useless as an abrasive polish, it still cleans the paint for paint sealant/wax.

 

To be honest I've never used Meg's #80 in fact, I don't recall ever using Meg's products for paint correction...mmm...maybe #83 once but I can't remember :shrug: good to know though.

Thank you for sharing.

 

Well like I said, the same thing happened to me and the guys said silicon must be on the paint, which is a pain to remove. Basically it made the polish gum up immediately and I couldn't work it at all.

I dont think clear coats dry out.

 

Quote: It is impossible to remove silicon from a painted surface without using a chemical process so aggressive that it dissolves the paint. Wax and grease removers will chemically remove one layer of silicon off at a time but are unable to completely remove all the silicon. Tests by Dr Michael Hauber at Menzerna using a spectroscope showed the layers become thinner but the silicon remains. Removing silicon completely can take place over time and involves a lengthy process of oxygen, chemicals, time and sunlight."

There is a need to differentiate between swirl marks in the silicon layer and swirl marks in the paint surface underneath. Some polishes may appear to remove the swirl marks in the paint but are really only working on the layer of silicon, so the swirl marks in the paint surface remain unaffected by polishing. Menzerna

Use Hi-Temp's Prep Wash to prepare a paint surface for polishing, compounding, wax and / or polymer sealant application (especially if changing from a wax to a polymer product) this is a water-based paint cleaner designed to remove all traces of silicone, oil, and buffing residue from any exterior paint surface, residue from polishing products accumulate in crevices, around handles, wiper arms, on trim, luggage racks, and aerodynamics. Hi-Temp's Prep Wash flows into these hard-to-reach areas and dissolves the build-up.

Hi-Temp's Prep Wash can be used to cleanse the finish before painting, and you can use it after buffing or levelling applications. It prepares the surface for the proper bonding of waxes, glazes and paint sealants. If this is not done properly, applied products may not bond, which will cause heavy streaking. It may be diluted, but is always used sparingly at any strength. Mist a cloth or sponge and wipe over the surface. Wipe dry with a clean towel. Hi-Temp's Prep Wash - Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies.




Quote -I dont think clear coats dry out."

Two stage paint system- (base, colour and clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to dry out or oxidize). The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out the paint.

The clear coat layer is extremely thin (1.5 – 2.0 Mils) water-based paint is not a solid coating and is porous, oxygen interacts with substances in the paint layer (i.e. mica flakes as in metallic paints) and trigger the oxidation reaction. It's just that the amount of oxidation taking place is minimal in comparison to single stage paint.