Sorry I don't exactly know where to post this if this is the wrong section. I was searching around a car forum that regularly go on and happen to see there's a detailing thread. I click on it and there's a guy using an oxidation block on a car to remove oxidation from the car but I have never heard of such thing. Has anyone used an oxidation block? Here's the link Turbo Wax :: Car Care Kits :: Turbo Wax Prime Kit
I can only assume the product contains ultra violet radiation (UVR) protection, as this is the prime cause of paint oxidation (drying out)
Oxidation (Reduction): [Oxidation simply means that oxygen is added to a molecule with an electron being displaced, which in turn dries the paint surface] Water-based paint is very porous, the paint film surface on a microscopic level has many surface imperfections, and is convoluted (a series of peaks and valleys) with time and use, plus normal wear and tear, the surface becomes more permeable, thus allowing ingress. High solid clear coat during the first couple of months, following factory painting will allow moisture to enter the clear and become trapped. This is most noticeable in vehicles that are transported, using transit wrap, when the surface has some moisture and the wrap is placed over it. On average, a high solid clear coat will absorb approximately one pint of water when the vehicle is subjected to a heavy rain or a car wash. If there is a "clouding" of the clear, simply applying isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to the area, allowing it to dwell and with a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the area (do not exceeding 100.oF spot temperature) The IPA acts as a "drying" agent, and when combined with the heat the moisture will evaporate. An oxidizer is any compound that spontaneously emits oxygen either at room temperature or under slight heating. Many chemical compounds react vigorously at ambient temperatures as the oxidizing process takes place. Oxidation is caused by environmental pollutants (acid rain, ozone, industrial pollutants, hydrocarbons, etc) the suns heat, which also causes paint colour fading from ultraviolet radiation (UVR) inclement weather or the use of harsh detergents, all of which attack the paints binder system(resin) It starts as a chemical reaction that causes the resin binder system to overheat and dry out, leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro fissures in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration. Once the air borne contaminates and pollution compromises the paint surface they accelerate the oxidation (reduction) or paint failure process. :graduation: DG501
and thats why cars in really dry sunny climates, (southern Oregon) often have oxidization/clear coat peeling right? well, mine doesnt... but i take care of it
TOGWT, are there any cars made now that have solvent based paint (2K, acrylic laquer, urethane etc)? I have always found that oxidation in both types of paints, causes the paint to dry out and become porous (even old and modern paints) and this needs to be chemically removed before polishing can be done This is what I based my DETOX custom blended product on It takes out the oxidation with extremely minimal amounts of paint removed
There are vehicles (pre the 2005 VOC regulations) that are painted with a solvent-based paint. The 'down-side' of modern water-based paints is that they are porous from the onset ( so be very careful of the type of solvents you use) and tend o dry-out unless protected
Isn't the product he is pointing out a clay block? Whenever you go through their site and go to the product they say it is similar to clay.
# 2 & 3 should be used with caution Use a safe solvent, d-limonene citrus-based (P21S Total Auto Wash or Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner) i.e. solvents that do not contain any harmful components (butyl, heptanes or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents) With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. It is important not to leave a solvent based chemical on the surface longer than is necessary. After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately. There are three main types: 1.Oxygenated Solvents- alcohols, glycol ethers, ketones, esters, and glycol ether esters. Oxygenated solvents are synthesized from other chemicals to form the desired solvent. Those solvents are typically of a high purity with specifications ranging from 99.0% to 99.9% purity. 2.Hydrocarbon Solvents (Petroleum Distillates) - aliphatic (include methane, propane, and kerosene, they are flammable and may be explosively flammable). 3.Aromatic hydrocarbons- (are the most toxic compounds found in petroleum products and include such substances as para-xylene (benzene, toluene, ethyl benzene, and xylene), which are all volatile organic compounds (VOC) (See also Petroleum Distillates) Information resource: The American Solvents Council represents major hydrocarbon and oxygenated solvents manufacturers and users.
The OP is asking about the oxidation block which appears to be like the Ultima Elastrofoam block. It's a washable block that one would use instead of clay. I've read reviews of it and some loved it some disliked it. So, is it good? I dunno.
uvr is like a drier.. hell most of the packaging in terms of labels and flexible packaging like for snicker wrappers or any printed plastic bag like a bag of chips uses uvr to dry the ink.. it is used in a number of applications to cure the product.. i suppose you could use uv to cure sealants and waxes super super fast instead of waiting but that would require a ton of trials.. just an idea though
The "oxidation block" is just a sponge clay pad... EDIT Ohh I missed the second page of this thread...oops
