Opinions on Optimum?

Looking to get Opti-Polish follwed up by Opti-Seal? Any comments on these products? Would I benefit at all using DWG before Opti seal? Or would the Opti Seal remove the DWG?

Thanks

 

This is my opinion ......

The only use I have ever found for Optimum polish is adding it to another product (on the pad) to get a longer working time. For me it was one of those that didn't live up to the hype and is all but useless by itself. Correction ability is practically non existent. Even as a finishing polish it was "just okay" but took forever to work, hardly a time saver. When forced to polish in direct sun on a hot surface it will keep another product from flashing too quickly and dusting due to the poor conditions. Others may think it's the best thing since a pocket on a shirt.

DWG can go over or under it doesn't matter. I would put it under and lock it in with the OS but it's your call, OS won't remove it.

 

Don't know,it sounds to me like typical overapplication. Yes, in this case, the polish won't do anything except skating on its own lubrication. Optimum has a secret: you have to use literally 2-3 pea sized dots on a 6.5 inch pad, and 3-5 pea sized dots on a 8 inch pad. When the amounts are correct, the fine abrasives can strike through the lubri-film, and the polish becomes effective.

It can remove surprisingly heavy defects with a wool pad, and the long working time is an excellent feature IMO.

 

Optimum polish and white LC CSS pad:

Extreme Makeover: Mitsubishi Galant G8 Sport - Detailers Club Norway

 

Optimum polish and white LC CSS pad:

Extreme Makeover: Mitsubishi Galant G8 Sport - Detailers Club Norway

 

Thanks for the opinions. I am new to the detailing world. I just purchased a PC should be here in a few days so now I am looking to build up a few essential chemicals withouth breakin the bank as this will be just a weekend thing for my cars and maybe help out my family lol.

 

Nice job pirex! Exactly my experiences!

sal, are you a member on Optimumforums?

 

Optimum polishes do take a little more effort with the PC than the rotary, but they are by far my favorite because of the long work time and NO dusting. If you get into the job and feel you need more cut than OP provides you can use a more aggressive pad or go to Optimum compound. Another huge benefit to Optimum is that you don't have to remove the residue between steps. Use OC, then pad change and OP, then pad change and PS, them remove PS with Optimum spray wax. I know there's other great product lines out there, but Optimum really works well for my applications.

 

nope but now I know they have a forum I will go check it out.
Once again thanks everyone for your input.

 

I do understand about using a small amount and how different pads work. Both with PC & Cyclo I have had no luck with it at all. Obviously others have so it's likely me that's the problem. If I live to be 5000 years old I'll still have 3/4 of the bottle I bought years ago.
I do not have a rotary so perhaps that is part of the secret in getting this product to work along with wool.

When I need correction I'll go for the Poorboy's SSR's cut with a little OP in a wink but OP by itself? Not for me. The extremely long working time is a blessing for some and a bane for me. My feeling is that while I'm still screwing with this stuff on one panel. I could have knocked out the problem and moved on to another section using Menzerna or Poorboy's. I guess that's why there are so many products to choose from.....we all have our likes and dislikes.

 

I feel like I need to clarify what I meant by "long work time." I by no means meant that it takes forever to break down. I can put the PC on 5-6 and break it down in one slow Left-Right and one up-down pass. What I mean is that it doesn't start gumming up my pad and drying out/dusting. I can lessen up my pressure and make another light pressure pass to get it LSP ready. The stuff is cheap compared to other polishes and if you learn how to work it, it's very effective and produces great results. RTexasF I hate that you have trouble with it, maybe you could trade it to a forum member before it gets much older for something more to your liking. I just traded off some KAIO and NXT 2.0 for some 50/50 and EZ Glaze. You're never "stuck with a product" when you are a member of a killer forum like DB!

 

Sal ------

Don't let my inability to work with the product discourage you from getting it. Apparently operator malfunction is my problem.

Integ----------

I did understand long work time and I don't feel stuck with it. I'll give it another go when the opportunity presents itself. It is invaluable for helping more aggressive products work better as previously mentioned.

 

One important thing is to understand with Optimum is that the lubrication of Optimum is different form others.

If you are waiting for proper breakdown, aka residue going clear, you are overworking it. I intentionally didn't write "working it too long", because it is almost impossible with OP. BUT, overworking it means that you are doing a polishing step, and a burnishing step. Yes, the buffing film/residue will go clear after a loong time but that doesn't mean that the polish broke down only at that time. In fact it breaks down significantly sooner.

Optimum's buffing film behaves differently. It stays on the surface for an extremely long time to provide sufficient lubrication. If you wait for clearup, you wait too long. Simply check your work by removing it and evaluate the finish. Done? Yes – move to a new working area. No – buff longer without adding more polish, as it stays wet.

As a system, the Optimum family works excellent. When you are done with the OP step, you don't have to remove the residue, because Poli-Seal can absorb it. Poli-Seal itself – applied correctly – works without leaving residue, so you won't see it on the surface. It just works, trust it. And where is no residue, the OOS can go on without any mid-step. If you overapplied OPS, and there is a slight residue on the surface, remove it with a towel, with OCW or with the MF applicator while you put on the OOS.


Little sidetrack, but also important:

There are a couple of misconceptions in the heads of people about correct Optimum usage.
For example WOWA sealants. I feel that people often think that these sealants need only one wipe, then they should be left alone. Well, no. You have to basically working it *in* without any pressure. You wipe it on gently (it will/can pull a faint rainbow-trail, which evaporates right away), but you can going over an area as much as you want; knocking down high points (where too much sealant is).
If you looking this on a micro-level, it's not surprising that people see streaks, etc., because the product is overapplied on that particular spot. You don't have to see the actual contrail of the product on the surface - just as using Poli-Seal. If you still want to see it, just push down the applicator to see if there is still enough sealant hides in the app. It will show up on the surface.

The other is ONR. I’ve been talking to people who were complaining about the product, about scratching, etc. They said it is false to claim that you just wash the panel then wipe it dry as the drying MF is dirty and this dirt is scratching the paint. They thought that you should wash the panel ONCE, then wipe it dry. BIG BS – but it clearly shows certain interpretation problems.
So, you lift the ONR solution with your washing media to the panel (pre-sprayed or not, your preference) and gently wash it. If the panel is dirtier, or the traffic film is stickier, that means that there is still some soiling to remove. Rinse your mitt in a bucket of clean water (2BM is recommended when washing really dirty vehicles), dip it in the ONR solution and wash the panel again. And again, and again until it’s completely clean! ONLY THEN wipe it dry. Done.

 

Bence,

Damn good information. It's like everyday I hear this or that product doesn't work, often because of user error/inability to try and learn the product correctly.

 

Thanks Woob. I think it is essential to learn a product extensively before we publish an opinion about it. Take for example the Scholl Concepts S17 which is basically unknown in the States. Some said that its working time is very short, so it is a bad product. But it is destined to remove the defects in less than 15 seconds... So yes, it has a significantly shorter working time than for example Optimum. Does it make it a bad product? Absolutely not. It is intended to work in a higher RPM range than most products (<1800). Will it work at slow speeds like an 1Z compound? Absolutely not. In fact, when I saw the first demo, the rep used 3000 RPMs (!) on a sanding spot with wool. It came out in 5 seconds and the panel was just barely warm. I wouldn't recommend this speed range, but it was definitely effective.
On the other hand, Optimum is like an artist polish. You can work it, refine it, still work it, check it and work it again. It can work quickly with higher RPMs too, but it is an intelligent and user friendly line. Its dustless nature brings passion into the process because you don't have to think about cleaning up or even powerwashing everything again. And this is priceless to me.

 

Bence.......

I must say that your post here is excellent in its useful information and application. I don't post a great deal elsewhere about Optimum products because of certain issues (not that it's a problem here at DB) but with posts like yours above I have no need to......heck I even learned a few things after reading your experiences. Again an excellent post!!

Anthony

 

Well put, Bence!

 

How is OP for removing swirls and scratches? I am still debating on tryin this, 4 start swirl remover or Danase Swirl Abolisher.

 

Optimum polish is very nice. I personally don't care for the looks of Opti-Seal.

 

This is what's nice about detailing. One product may fit your needs just fine but another product from that very same company may not tickle your fancy and guess what? The world still spins!:thumb:

Anthony