I feel like this is a noob question but I have searched for the answer for quite a while now. After polishing I apply a sealant or wax and allow it to fully haze. When I go to remove it using a MF towel it tends to lead to very light scratches. You can't see them looking head on but at a angle in direct sunlight they are there. I know they were not their prior to LSP because I checked my polishing work under direct sunlight. I think they are being put in by the towel I am using and sometimes I do need to get a little agressive to get all of the LSP residue off. I notice this especially on black or darker japanese paints. It seems silly to me that after polish the surface is 100% then after LSP the overal look is enhanced but the surface is a step back. Is there some technique to LSP residue removal that I am missing here? Is it just one of those unavoidable things on soft dark paints?
This problem maybe down to poor quality mf's or applying to much pressure whilst buffing off the residue. HTH
Good suggestions to the issue so far, I would also throw in using a quick detailer of some sort to loosen up the lsp. Also, you might be leaving the lsp on too long. Which product did you use? And yes, soft + dark paint can be really finicky, even when removing lsp.
I normally finish with a WOWA sealant on soft paints, as you dont have to remove any residue this way. I normally use Ultima PGP, and then lightly buff any streaks with Zaino Z8 or Blackfire DGSS...
Thanks for the feedback guys. The LSP was Menzerna Powerlock wich is IMHO is very easy to remove. I've been letting it haze for a few hours and checking with a swipe test. I've noticed some sealants/waxes are tougher than others DG105 being a pain and P21s being very easy to remove. Could it be that the LSP is going on too thick? I've tried using a QD or spray wax to remove residue and that generally will help but rehydrating the product sometimes leaves behind clear greasy looking streaks. Also not sure if using a spray right on freshly hazed sealant will affect durability? Is it a common practice to use QD as a removal aid? What kind of MF is best for LSP removal? Long or short nap? I find that I go through quite a few towels during removal because the fibers get loaded up with residue, I am using towels with fairly short nap. I'm currently using ones from CG, haven't tried anything else other than the bulk pack ones from costco. However, I would invest in some better ones for this last step if anyone has a suggestion for ones that are ideal.
i too get light scratches applying and removing LSPs on my soft solid black paint it's inevitable, just like washing, anytime you're rubbing the surface of the paint you're going to be inducing some level of marring - even if people brush against my car and it's dusty it'll marr lightly you can minimise this by using a QD and good quality towels as suggested, but i wouldnt get too worked up about it next detail you do, just use a paint cleaner that has some swirl filling ability and itll hide that light marring
I believe Menz PL is to be removed after between 15-45 mintues. Wipe your finger across a 2-3" section after that amount of time and if it leaves a haze or residue, it was applied too thick.
This maybe a totally obvious, but are your MFs clean, no residue or dust on them? Also, are they good MFs...meaning, are they 100%, no funky nylon threads on the outer seam, no tags? I'm just trying to root out any underlying factors. One more thing, what kind of condition are you applying in? Is debris being blown onto the surface while settling?
Based on your comment that you're using a lot of towels b/c they're getting caked up, I would agree with your suggestion that you're applying the sealant too thick. A thin layer should dry on you in 1/2 hour tops. (provided you're not in very hot, humid weather which will add some time). Packshack towels are incredibly soft...try some of them and you'll toss your current supply.
I'm with Richy, PakShak towels are what you need. All of my microfiber towels to include Cobra are being reduced and replaced with PakShak. As for the DG 105 being tough to remove, I haven't experienced that. What is your environment like or what was it like when using it? I was in high humidity when I tested DG 111 and it was a little tough to remove but the DG 105 was a breeze. Anyway, lighten up on your application of LSP's. Two thin layers is way better than one thick layer. Good luck.
Richard..that's what clued me into the fact he's applying too much if he's having trouble removing DG 105.
Same here, that's what made me actually comment. Since we're on the subject of DG 105, I did a maintenance wash on the Benz I did in June and let me tell you Richy, that stuff is still working like it was just applied! The car has only been washed 2 times since I cleaned it for him and was still such a breeze to clean and bug splatter removal was almost effortless! Thank you for the combo.
Due to some persistent tree sap I had to clay the car today. I thought it would also be a good chance to see if I can improve on my process. This time I did MPL over Prima Amigo using the orbital to apply it. After going out to dinner I got out my plushest MF towels and went to buff off the hazed MPL and it came off super easy. So when I applied sealants or waxes by hand it was laying down way to thick which in turn needed much more elbow grease to buff off. This added effort was leaving behind toweling marks. Orbital really is the best way to apply any LSP. Lesson learned. Thanks for all the help and suggestions with this guys. DB folks are the best!
I've tried Prima Epic last Friday, Used LC 6.5 inch red pads + Griot's 6 inch on speed 4 to apply. It was extremely easy to remove. (I waited half an hour before removing Epic) Menzerna powerlock is also extremely easy to remove.
