Looking to find a spray on wax after washing...

Was he waxing with a Brillo pad? Sounds to me like improper technique led to the state of his paint. He was probably drying with bath towels too.

Wax is softer than paint. Given the proper applicator, and application technique, waxing will only enhance the paint surface, not degrade it.

 

Unfortunately, no. He was using SwissVax Onyx which I bought for him for his birthday and a proper applicator pad and microfiber towels to dry. I don't know how he was doing it, I brought him along on a lot of my detailing jobs and showed him to do everything properly. Maybe there is something he's not telling me, all I know is that its a little bit dull.

 

Waxing does not remove clear coat.... You would have to abrade the CC in order to remove any.

I gaurantee your buddy didn't damage his car due to the wax, his technique may be another story.

This sounds like the old stories (old wives tales) that people will say when they see you washing/waxing your car frequently.

Rest assured my friend, waxing (when done properly) does no harm to your paint

 

Onyx is a nice wax. He shouldn't have the issue you are describing. The only variable left as to why he would be getting negative results is from his technique.

I just feel you were misinformed about wax taking off the paint. POLISH removes paint by using mechanical or chemical abrasives.

See, the problem is the labels get misused a lot of the time. Recently, I was on a car enthusiast forum, and a guy claimed he did a 5 step wax job. I asked to elaborate, and 2 of his steps were polishing.

Then there are the companies like Duragloss and Zaino that call their sealants "polishes".

It can get confusing.

I don't mean to come off as a jerk or anything, as that is not my intention. My intention is only to provide correct knowledge to you.

 

What wax does that? It must be one with rocks in it. Avoided at all cost.:mounty:

 

IF you wash your car every week and happen to not follow proper protocol then yes you could dull as you will micro mar the paint, thus after a while you will have dull paint. Wax has no abrasives in it, unless we are talking about cleaner wax in which case it is not much at all, the applicator that you should use has no cutting ability thus you can not remove clear. Only way to remove clear or paint or anything is via abrasives, this can be in the form of polish, dust, dirt, or even towels (If they mar).

 

:shead:

no way man... wax doesnt Remove clear in any way...

 

+1...there's some BS/bad info in this thread.

 

Would you clay a car every time you wash it, or you would only do so if a) the car never had it done before, b)the car had some new contaminites imbedded or c) your obsessed with claying every car?:shead:

Just curious. I'm pretty sure most of those I know has never had their care clayed before. They will wonder what I'm doing with plaster cine on their cars.

The Durogloss AW is looking like a winner for starters, followed by Optimum Car Wax and Collinite 845. I will need to try them or at least 2, and see which one I like better.

Thanks for letting me ask my silly little ?!

 

I claybar my car twice a year. In the spring, and in the fall. Normally it needs it. You would do this at sooner intervals if, say, your car is normally parked outside, or you live around a heavy construction area. There are a number of factors that can affect how quickly you will need to claybar. Simple test: put your fingers in a cigarette cellophane or plastic bag, and VERY lightly drag your fingers across the paint surface. If it feels rough, instead of nice and smooth, you need to clay.

Claying sheers off extruded particles such as brake dust, industrial fallout, tar, etc. that are embedded into the clearcoat, and that washing alone does not remove. It will not pull the entire particle out, it will just sort of "shave" the paint, if you will.

Most vehicles will only need a finer grade of claybar, such as Clay Magic Blue, Sonus green, or Bilt Hamber. bilt Hamber is my favorite, as you don't need a special lubricant. You just use water. And of course it works spectacular.

Removing those embedded contaminants will enhance the paint's looks, as well as extend the durability of whatever wax/sealant you apply over a freshly claybarred surface.

I have not tested AW for durability, but if you are not looking for over a month of durability, it would probably do just fine. I would recommend at some point picking up Collinite 845. It adds huge perceived value to the customer, since it beads water for so long after you apply it.

 

I can appreciate that. Yup, something that will last longer then 2 weeks would be nice. get the feeling I will be claying before waxing for the first timers that will be coming my way.

 

Surprised no one else has said Opti-Seal other than me, I thought it was one of the fastest sealants to apply as you do not need to buff or anything and last about 2 months.

AJT is a good sealant as well, got to try it out the other day on a friends car who uses it.

 

Claybar will take probably 20-30 minutes. Charge accordingly, but I would consider it a crucial step in the scheme of a proper detail.

You know, I've been looking at Optiseal for a while now, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. I just didn't want to recommend a product I haven't tried, but it's been under heavy consideration for weeks now.

 

Let me put in a plug for Megs' Ultimate Quik Wax. I just used it again this afternoon on my black S2K. It really is incredibly easy ... too easy not to use. I spray it twice on my microfiber towel and then mist and wipe the paint, panel by panel. When the car has been completely waxed, I then immediately go back around and buff the surface, though it hardly needs it. I have yet to see any sealant residue. It does not stain trim, and you can apply it in full sun. I have not experienced any streaking. I cannot attest to durability, though Mark Kleiss over at MOL says he's getting 4+ weeks from it.

I have not used either DG AquaWax or Optimum Car Wax and so cannot compare UQW to them, but I can say that I like this product a lot. Read the testimonies over at MOL. One finds few, if any, negative comments about it.

 

One thing to consider OP, if you use a very nice wax such as Swisswax or RBOE, or any wax for that matter that gives it a good look, be wary of the quick waxes ability to change that look. For instance, say you just waxed your car with Swisswax Crystal Rock, then go around a week later with Meg's UQW, it may alter the gloss, depth, etc. of the wax.

And SolidSnake, WTF? Waxing DOES NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR COAT. I *STRONGLY* suggest you do not give out advice to new beginners when you have no idea what you are talking about yourself.

 

Put in another vote for DG AW, I'll be ordering a gallon when I run out. Application couldn't be easier, spray, wipe dry, done. I'm not sure if it's supposed to smell good but I love it, reminds me of coconuts

 

You all know I use and love DG products..but that's 'cause I'm a cheap sonofabitch who wants the very best products he can find at the very best price. I have yet to find any line that comes anywhere as close...especially when you factor in the $5 shipping if you get it directly from them (which I recommend). Now, as to your issue, Aquawax will fit the bill for several reasons. #1 it is a spray on sealant. It was designed to be used on wet surfaces so it is very strong. In fact, when you're drying the car, get like 80-90% of the water off the panel then mist it with AW and then dry it completely. You'll love the look and the slickness. For what you're offering your customers, it's perfect. The other cool thing is you can buy it by the gallon which makes it very cost effective. I strongly recommend it.

 

Consider Duragloss Aquawax.

 

I must be the only one that does not really like Aquawax, haha.