I've been always interested in adding Autoint - valvegard ABC wash to my stash of stuff. A & B ---not necessarily the C part. This would be the ~strong wash~ post winter, etc. The bigger question is after the decontaminate wash, does it totally replace claying or will some minor claying be needed.
http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f39/fk-paint-decontamination-kit-whos-used-304.html I had the same question....
I have used and still do use the Auto Int valu gard ABC system....its a very good sytem.... the 3 step process removes any paint contaminants like fallout..rail dust..acid rain deposits... 1. Acid Neutralizer ...... Removes all waxes and storage stains. Neutralizes acids which may have been deposited during transportation and storage. Removes lot stains, wax build up. Excellent prewash for body shops - removes silicones, waxes and other contaminates before sanding. Saves time when applied to used vehicles, removes oxidation, reduces buff time. 2. Alkaline Neutralizer .....The second step of our Neutralization System, Alkaline Neutralizer deep cleans painted surfaces to remove Alkaline Deposits. Also dissolves ferrous metal particles while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily float away. 3. They use a PH 7.0 wash here called the Detail Wash...its a nuetral PH based soap..I used it and now I use DG901 as its Nuetral also... Detail Wash Info....A fine vehicle wash solution designed to be the final step in neutralization, it returns the paint to it's original factory pH level. Excellent for every day use. pH7.0 removes the dirt without stripping waxes, polishes or sealants. Now I use this wash as a prep wash before a full polishing of the paint.... I do the wash system...and then when I wash it with the last step I use a baggie and search the paint for any thing that did not come off with the system...if I find a spot I clay it... I willl say that 98% of the time the paint is clean of any contaminants.... now this should be done on cool paint and in a shaded area sine you have to let the chemicals dwell a little and you do not want the sun to dry them out on the paint to fast.... This system is used by Ford...GM...Chrysler...and and few other big car makers... Ford has a Tech bulletin out that all new cars before delivery must be washed with the system and the Valugard system is named as the one to use... its a good system and if used right will save you alot of prep time .....IT WORKS PS..call Auto Int and ask for Ketch...he will explain the whole system to you...he knows more about paint and products than any one I ever talked to...great guy..a bit Grumpy at time but will help you....its a learning experience talking to him little more info ABC wash - Mobileworks Professional Auto Detailing and Dent Repair Forums AL
Finish Kare product (#1119) is designed to soften the paint and contains petroleum solvents for that purpose. It also contains tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) as the instructions dictate; this should not be allowed to dry on the paint, since as it dries it becomes more and more caustic and causes major paint damage. After a complete rinse to remove most of the caustic residue, the next step is applying #883 which is highly acidic and contains sulphuric acid and phosphoric acid; both of which are strong mineral acids. Again, as the instructions dictate, this should not dry on the surface either since acidity continuously increases as the water is evaporated. Note - as mineral acids are heated in they become more aggressive (so only use on a cool paint surface). Again the car needs to be rinsed with cold water to remove excess acid. In the last step #118SC is used as the final wash which has some mild caustic component, it contains baking soda to neutralize any remaining acid. Due to the harsh chemicals used in their formulation I would not recommend this product
ive used FK1 decontam system once on an old car sitting outside for two years untouched . It worked great ,it is harsh so i would only use it if other less harsh methods dont work but i would use it again if i needed to! i have heard good things about the ABC system as well.
I can honestly say that the ABC system is the easiest & best product to remove embedded rust/rail dust particles from a vehicle. Using this system takes a fraction of the time compared to claying, sanding and/or polishing and it will do a much better job. As with all chemicals, safety is key and these products should be used in a well ventilated shaded area. Also, several (if not all) vehicle manufacturers approve and recommend this system. If the directions are followed, it's perfectly safe for you & the vehicle. Plus, there's really no better way to remove embedded Ferrous Metal (Rail Dust) particles than with a decon type kit. Other methods just remove the top portion of the particle which in turn allows it to return almost immediately. A Decon system removes the entire particle.
Living by the shore with its salt-laden air makes (auto int ABC) decontamination essentially a bi-annual routine. I don't use FK's system for the reasons stated See Acid / Rust Decontamination and Neutralization- Acid / Rust Decontamination and Neutralization: - DetailingWiki
