The thread on using a quick detailer after waxing has raised two questions for me. Assume you are using a carnauba-type wax: First, if you intend to apply a second coat of your carnauba wax, how long do you typically allow the first coat to cure? Second, if you have allowed the first coat to cure overnight, do you use a quick detailer the next day before you apply your second coat in order to remove any dust that may have settled on the car? TIA. Cheers, Al
For whatever it's worth, here's what I do when I use my "usual" LSP (RBOE) on my own car: Overnight. No. I just dust it with a nice plush microfiber. It sits in the garage to cure, so there's not really much dust to worry about anyway.
I wait till the next day to apply a second coat. I will gently pull a ultrplush mf over the vehicle to remove any type of dust, this is for a vehicle sitting in a garage.
Well, if you don't have a garage, a QD before the second coat is fine. As far as how long to wait before the second coat all depends on the wax. I personally like to wait a day or two before applying a second coat.
When I didn't have a garage I would do two coats the sameday and would not use a qd. The less the paint is touched, the less chance to induce any type of marring.
Yes. I know that many guys can quick detail their black cars without instilling swirls, but I have not yet mastered this skill--which is another reason why I tend to avoid quick detailing in between washes. On the other hand, I have not mastered the skill of washing and drying my car without causing swirls either--so it's pretty much a damned if you do and damned if you don't situation for me.
I am with you, I don't care how careful you are, you are going to induce some marring when qd'ing. Isn't fun having a black car. I have always had one. At onetime I had a black enclosed tralier, truck, my race car and a black vette. That was a second job in itself.
Having a black vehicle is a chore in itself but the results are always to die for, so to speak. As for the wax questions, I'd wait a day for it to cure before applying the second coat and use my Zymol duster right before the second coat is applied.
Carrier system The solvents and oils that are formulated in an emulsion type carrier system soften the wax, without which it would remain rock hard; the solvents along with oils also allow the wax to spread evenly on the paint surface. The solvent permeates the micro-fissures of the paint surface providing an anchor, as a wax doesn’t form a monocular bond with paint like a polymer, it initially adheres to the paint via surface friction. Once the solvents have evaporated the wax sets-up (hardens) to provide a shell like protection Allowing a Carnauba wax or Glaze to set-up for 45-60 minutes (see manufacturers instructions on specific products) is usually more than sufficient, this will allow the solvents to outgas, which will be dependant upon ambient temperature / humidity Note- Although polymers formulated in Carnauba waxes are not generally of a type that cross-link, a categorical statements that Carnauba waxes do not contain cross- inking polymers may not be without exception Like most car care products Carnauba wax is designed to provide maximum results with minimum product application, most Carnauba waxes work well using the WOWO (wipe on wipe off) method while still slightly damp but not completely dry, generally apply a very thin layer, preferably with a distilled water primed foam applicator; allowing it to haze, then wiping off. I would suggest you do a swipe-test (swipe the surface with your finger, if the wax is still semi-liquid wait for a while and repeat) As a wax ‘sets-up’, it goes through a number of stages. 1.The first stage is the application of the liquid product; friction will cleanse the dirt, oxidization, old waxes etc. In effect you are lifting the dirt away from the paintwork and into the liquid wax and then into the applicator. 2.The next stage is that you leave the wax to haze. This is where the solvents and oils out gas (evaporate) and leave the resin and fillers behind to dry and set-up on the pain€t. 3.Next you remove the excess. Anything that is now not bonded to the paint will be wiped away with the buffing towel and as you wipe away you will end up giving the resin a slight buff to bring out its gloss 4.A good technique is to buff the wax with a 100% cotton micro fibre cloth and then spritz the paintwork with cold distilled water and wipe down, this helps to set the wax and will add that little extra gloss. Allow the solvents to vaporize (outgas) in the suns heat ad then buff to a gloss.
