1992 Chevrolet Corvette LT1 This is my first post here on "Detailing bliss" and please bear with me on this one. ii used google translator and its not that good...... This car I had over some time trying to do a good job and get an "ok" result. been doing the car in my spare time over a periode of about 14 days . Number of hours gone into detailing estimated at about 60 hours of machine work. and a total of aprox 75-80hours I intend to put me on a slightly different style in terms of writeups this time, and you are welcome to give me feedback on it. Add a little focus on different parts of the job and put up a little more before and after photos. Photos of what is used ... if you "bear" to see you through the entire job. Here is the thread! On arrival ... at departure Thank you for me ...: P (or maybe not) I'm at least very pleased with the end result. ... Nope First, some pictures from the arrival, the car is not badly kept. But there is always something to deal with. Started by washing the nooks and crannies and under the hood as well as around the wheelarches and bear arms, etc ... But did not wash the engine yet. Equiptment: -Mac 124 Prickbort -KCL Micro Royale -ValetPro Orange Prewash -HT-spyler med Foam cannon -Mothers felgbørste -SV detail brush Already here it started to go bad. When I was getting the car in to the garage after I had washed. it would not start ... It was not many minutes on google before I found post after post on the LTX, LS/LT-1 and corvettefever forums. Where it was about the infamous "opticrap" as it is called .. The Optispark units all have had or will have problems with those who own the 92-93 Corvette and Camaro. This is so poorly designed in terms of water that it was frightening. Was probably one reason why it was changed so quickly also it exists only in these years. People have had problems with them just by driving in heavy rain, in water puddels etc.. read long threads with lots of info ... and quotes like "i dont drive my car in heavy rain" ii never wash my engine bay, other than with a slight damp cloth” "... ... etc etc .... The location is down in front of the engine makes it not better ... then i started the hunt for parts .... Oh, not least the dismantling of the old to see what it looked like ... I vil let the pictures speak for themselves, because this is a forum for details . But since it was part of the job as requested I wrote a few words about it anyway. Did a litle cleaning down there while i could New vs old… and when everything was in place again and the engine started up and runed clean and neat,.I Could make a big poster that says I was quite relieved when the car started again ... .. SO MORAL IS, IF YOU ARE stumbled upon a Corvette Camaro OR FROM 92-93 SO DO NOT Open the hood WHEN THERE IS WATER NEARBY !!!!!!!!!!!!.. Back to what it's all about. the front fender was not in polishing state it had some cracks and flaking. so it was removed and deliverd for paint. Wash... equiptment -Mac 124 Prickbort -Valetpro Orange Prewash -Chemical guys glossworkz -Chemical guys Maxi suds II (I bøtta) -HT-spyler med Foam cannon -Scandicshine bøtte med Grit guard -Swissvax Wash pudel -Swissvax Detail brush -EZ- brush rims: -Chemical guys sticky wheel gel -Swissvax wheel brush -Vikan brush -EZ-brush Clay: -Optimum NO Rinse -Swissvax paint rubber yellow Prickbort was sprayd on in quantities, before I went and mixed up some candy for the foam cannon. there was good foam, but the foam cannon just was not quite as it should. So it was time for a little disassembly, while the foam was left to stand on the car. After about 10minuttes I washed extremely carefully over the car. Got together the Cannon again and put on some glossworkz with faom cannon before hand washing with pudel and maxi suds II. foamed part for part. And rinsed well with running water. I like to wash the details while I work my way around the car . So, doors, hatches and details was taken ad I worked my way around it. So then it was time to push the car into the garage again for drying and calying. Wipe was dont with SS blue towel and a new CG miracle dryer. Followd by inspection photos .. Prickbort sprayd on.. The foam was left to stand on the car while i tried to fix the foam cannon. And i found some dirt in it, no wonder it was not up to it`s usual performance After the hose down it was time for som rim washing. sticky long name was mixed in 1:1. and worked with the brushes. Spray on and let it sitt for a few minutes before starting the work. tires first. Did this an all 4 tires of course and started on the rest of the car after that. 1-2-3 push!!!!! Dried and time for som inspection fotos, before starting with clay bar and ONR as lube Dissasembeld some parts so that polishing the tricky plases would be easier. there was a litle bit left in the paint Compoundign/polishing equiptment -Flex -3M Fast cut plus -3M Extra fine -Scholl wool -Swissvaxwool (the same as scholl only diffrent colour) -Scholl Orange pad -3M green pad -3M yellow pad -Über blue pad -Swissvax Cleaner fluid proffesional -basecoat -clearcoat 2k -3M 9my -3M "halfmoon" pad -3M trizact P1000 and P3000 Started circus as usual with a little combo testing, this car is all fiberglass and plastic so tryed to be a little careful with heat. Had decided beforehand that it was wool that was the way to go, so only finnishing with foam pad. Started to tape up a small area for testing. Drove a first test with orange Scholl and 3M EF, that removed almost nothing as you will see from the pictures. After that i went to Scholl wool and 3M EF this took a litle more but not enough. So I tested Scholl S03 but it got quickly a little warm.the same happened with 3M FCP quickly became hot. So I ended up with this combo after about 2 hours of testing here and there. Wool pad plus 2 "dots" EF and 2 "dots" FCP .. that a lot of product on the pad. This gave the ability to run very long and with very little pressure. So I achieved good correction by running a long time instead of with pressure. While the heat remained low. But i took a long time to correct the paint. Two rounds on the car, and just rubbing took both well up to 30 hours alone .... It was followed by a round of 3M EF and orange Scholl pad. Run a spread pass as two pass with a little pressure of about 1500rpm, followed by 3-5 passes with out pressure. A little more info is added around the pictures .. While I was polishing the rear I filled chips in front of the car. Chips was washed with silicone removr, inspected for any loose flakes. And put the primer on the deepest notches. then 2-3 fills with color depending on how deep the wounds were. This was left to stand a few hours before the firs layer of clearcoat was added. Mixed 50/50 hardener and paint this time just to test. It lost a bit more in the evaporation of paint will go hard ... .. and very HARD ... simply sanding down the tops was hard .... I am mixing 1:3 as normal next time. Scratches and marks were pretty hard to get away, since the paint is medium hard and fiberglass and plastic are not so fond of heat, it was difficult to drive hard on the RDS and other scratches. So I ended up sanding down all the scratches and marks with either 3M pad 9my or Trizact-P1000 and P3000. Then the scratches was easily removed. And it was much easier to control the heat, when it was not necessary to run so hard. Started it all with a little paint spot repairs. sanded down some old fills and sanded down the peaks around some new ones. more masking and dismanteling masket up and ready for some testing Result after one round with orange scholl and 3M EF, didnt happen mutch. A litle beter after wool and EF, but stil not enough This was the combo i ended up with. Good results and only a litele amaunt of hollograms. but no crisis, it was easy fixed in the finnishing stage with EF and Orange. After a round of compunding and finnishing... seem quite shiny Some random work pics and some 50/50s Litt kose polering… 50/50 A litle pad dring after a wash, at the end of the day. This is the best working position…. time for some hood 50/50 shots…. stop joking araund and get back to work…. Had some problems getting rid of all the RDS so started sanding them down. for that "perfect" finnish.. Some micro scratches after a bad MF..... not happy.. extra round for me.. before… during after Prelimanery results after EF and orange scholl Started to get i litle tired og polishing so i tried som other "styles".. i was not a hit.. Interiør: equiptment: -Foma Mimo -Chemical guys Green clean -interiør brush -Scholl ice 9000 -Scholl purple 9000 -Swissvax leather cleaner -Swissvax leather milk -Swissvax leather brush -Swissvax Seal feed -div MF Started with a vacuum to the best ability to get the most "loose" dirt out before I started with somthing else, all the details, air wents, etc. were taken with the computer set for the vacuum Found some tickets from a Rogers' game, and the car has been in Norway for about 14 years. After this I started cleaning carpets inside and floor mats. Seats were cleansed with leather cleaner and brush, two rounds to clear as much as possible before they got to stand and dry while I washed the rest of the interior with green clean and microfiber that I rinse in water frequently. Takes a lot of dirt this green clean, it was not long before the water was completely black. Followed this up with a few sprays of purple 9000 and lightly wipe with a dry MF. This leaves a nice half matt Finnish and gives a "new car" appearance. And finally mats added and seats got leather milk. All seals had a good round with seal feed and were left without the touch overnight. doors and top open. And finally windows got cleand on the inside with ice9000 and Glass MF. The starting point: Round of seal feed Carpet cleaning Leather seats cleaning ROUND 1 . ROUND 2 interior finnished From here onwards it is bad with pictures when it clicked for the memory card to the camera obviously do not want the camera to save all the pictures taken. And it's completely random which images it stores .. so there was even a case that went keg in this project .... LSP: Equiptment -Swissvax Concorso US -Swissvax Autobahn -Swissvax pneu glossy -Swissvax seal feed -Nanolotus proff glassforsegling -3M scoth gard -Chemical guys bare bones -chemical guys new trim look gel of course the spare tire also had to be cleaned Engine room then got a new round of green clean and mf before tubes were seal feed and all the covers were put in with new look trim gel Impregnation of sufle and last totch in the engine bay before the round on the exterior. Parts were washed and put in with new look trim gel before installation. Then the entire car was run with Cleaner Fluid Pro. Was a bit with rotating and blue über and a bit of DA and green über. Then my flex began to spit flames and sparks. Going in the speed it wanted itself. Probably the brushes. All gaskets and seals in the engine bay got seal feed. then the entire car got two layers of concorso U.S.. This was the goodies to work with. Was not really very confident after buffing, but when it had been left for a few hours WOW I was standing there looking at it for a while with my chin on the chest and thinking WOW ... So I started on the second layer with a smile from ear to ear. And thought, hoping the owner will be just as happy as me .. tires and rims had pneu, and got a layer of autobahn after a quick round of autosol and CG polishing ball. Wheel Arches had a second layer of barebones. Cleaner fluid pro... vax was sett to stand for about 10-15 min before buffing A few after pictures Thats all from me at this point, and i promise that next time i am going to take the time to do the writeup in english as well as Norwegian.. I hope you understood what i was trying to tell you and that you at least enjoy some of it.... at least got a good laugh over the poor translation...
