Will clay-barring get rid of this

My MKV GTI's paint is completely covered by tiny specs of rust.

What would your approach be to remove it and what product(s)?

TIA

 

u always wanna try least aggressive method first... which would be claying. Locally I would pick up some clay magic, blue bar and give that a whirl... after you clay and it's still there step up to polishing

 

it will but you'll have to go over quite a few times

 

Wouldnt you be grinding whatever is left into the paint if you polished without completely removing it?

 

Possibly... OP my advice is to try a chemical cleaner that's paint safe (I'm not sure which, but something like Googone for sticky stuff, except for rust, etc.) maybe a simple wax & grease remover. Then move on to a claybar, less abrasive one first of course, try a few times and then move on to a more abrasive claybar. As D&D mentioned, it's very possible with polishing that you'll take apart the rust particles that still don't come apart after a light claying and use those little particles as a pad lubricant all across your paint, which is bad. Polishing will definitely clean up the stains left after you remove the rust, but you should first get rid of the actual rust

 

Can you feel it with a fingernail?

 

once the iron particles get into a rust bloom clay will do very little... but remove whats left....of the iron slivers.....you may need a decom wash to get it out if it bloomed under the CC....if the oxidation of the particles is on top of the paint..clay may remove some or most..but a paint cleaner will need to follow a claying to get remains....

AL

 

What he said! Here are some before and afters of a similar situation -- just claying. The clay will remove the top layer of the contamination causing the rust yet it will not be fully removed and could re-rust over time. That is why following with a chemical paint cleaner is a good idea, to remove the rest of the contamination, which is what a decontamination wash will do, remove it completely.

 

(B) Alkaline Neutralizer
•Using a clean dry sponge or wax applicator pad, apply alkaline neutralizer to all surfaces including roof, hood, deck lid, and the tops of the fenders and quarters.

•Allow to dwell 5-7 minutes.
•Use detailer’s clay and the alkaline neutralizer as its lubricant
• Use only on a cool paint surface and do not allow solution to dry on vehicle


See Acid / Rust Decontamination and Neutralization-Acid / Rust Decontamination and Neutralization: - DetailingWiki

 

Thanks for the responses everyone!

budman & AL-53: what do you recommend for a paint cleaner or decontamination wash? This does not sound like something I have ever seen as an OTC-type product.

togwt: similar question....is the alkaline neutralizer the same as the decontamination wash? if not, is this something I can mix / buy readily?

Sorry for the noob cleaning questions.

 

http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f39/fk-paint-decontamination-kit-whos-used-304.html

 

Hey, you posted on RFD! I gave you a response already. Check the thread, it'll tell you exactly how to remove that.

 

AutoInt 3 Step, Clay during B Stage. Paint Cleaner after.

 

"togwt: similar question....is the alkaline neutralizer the same as the decontamination wash? if not, is this something I can mix / buy readily?"


•A is an acid neutralizer that removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits, a solution of an 8:1 concentrate /clean water , allow to dwell for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.

•B is an alkaline neutralizer, removes alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout, allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailers clay to remove contaminants.

•C is a pH 7.0 surface conditioner a 128:1 concentrate vehicle wash and the third step in the neutralization process, which ensures any chemical residues, are neutralized and rinsed away.

Automotive paint is porous, by using an acid solution (A) on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded, the acid / water is subjected to an exothermic reaction (heat is evolved when water and acid mix together), which means it agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be encapsulated by detailer’s clay (as opposed to being sheared off, by abrasion)

The neutralizer (B) then enters the subsurface of the paint film and neutralizes any caustic compounds generated by ferrous particles that have penetrated paint film

Auto International’s "A", "B", & "C" Paint Neutralization System -
http://www.autoint.com/autostore/pc...stSellers..P.asp.comm)