Wheel Cleaners:

Wheel Surface Cleaning and Care

Recommended Products
In the interest of full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated with, employed by, have any vested interest, or in any way receive compensation from the sale or distribution of any of the product lines reviewed or the company that manufactures or markets it. No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products if they are omitted.

The author does not provide any guarantee of results and is not responsible or liable for any third-party products or services. Brand, product and company names used throughout these articles are trademarks of their respective companies and are used for product identification purposes only.

I purchase all the products I use, so the endorsement is entirely personal and unbiased, the product recommendation is based on “Does exactly what it says on the box” and it suits my detailing goals. I have tested the products mentioned and have found that they will perform the task more than adequately using the methodology and tools cited, which may or may not be the same as those recommended by the manufacturer.

Detailing products
Car care chemicals are the most misunderstood component auto detailing, they should work on their real merits, not ‘smoke and mirrors'. Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. It is my opinion that when it comes to car care products its best to understand the scientific process to enable the best result possible.

Most companies won’t release ingredients other than what's on the MSDS sheet. Patenting chemicals is pretty risky since if you change a couple of ingredients by a few percentages it's technically a different product. When it comes to technical specifications and chemical formulations, it is important to realize that all companies must keep secure their proprietary information and agreements. Without this, no business would have the incentive to develop new products, expand their market, stay competitive, and ultimately - exist.

A product that shows great results in the controlled environment of a laboratory may not produce the same results in the real world, this is the reality of field testing, which throws up masses of variables which lab testing just cannot replicate i.e. resistance of paint coatings against ultra violet (UV) damage, bird droppings, acid rain, alkaline sprinklers, scratching (regardless of hardness factors) gloss, dirt and surface stain repellence and temperature resistance.

Detailing relies on the correct preparation procedures and the correct methodology to obtain pristine results. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used.

Results Obtained
These articles are not intended to warrant or guarantee any results with any of the products mentioned. No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products not mentioned. The author does not provide, nor guarantee and is not responsible or liable for any third-party products or services. Brand, product and company names used throughout these articles are trademarks of their respective companies and are used for product identification purposes only.

Proper Technique
There is no `one correct way' to apply a product; the way detailing products are customized are what each individual finds give them their desired results. Using the same application methods and products of one individual may or may not give you the similar results; but it’s always best to adopt your own methodologies by experimentation with different products, after all that half the fun of detailing

The detailing methods set out here have been adapted for special use and may not be the same as those recommended by the product manufacturer, and you may experience different results from those stated. Some of the methodologies are controversial as they do not conform to popular practices. I’ve found that some myths are deliberately perpetuated by product manufacturers as negative marketing and others are just common errors of judgment.

When in doubt always use common sense. A sound understanding of the proper technique and the correct process will produce excellent results even with a mediocre product. A quality product used without the proper surface preparation or application technique will never obtain a satisfactory result. Using the proper methodology (surface preparation, using a quality product, along with the correct application technique) will ensure an excellent result.

Skill Level / Experience
Some methods described may be beyond the capabilities of the average detailer or enthusiast; in this case we strongly encourage the reader to consult a professional detailer or body shop concerning the matters discussed herein.

Focusing on one person’s methodologies or the products or tools they use will seriously limit your detailing experience and knowledge. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon.

Liability
The information contained herein is believed to be true and accurate; however we make no guarantees concerning the veracity of any statement. The writer assumes no responsibility, expressed or implied, due to misuse or misinterpretation of the information or methods used, or for any vehicle damage or injury that may occur due to the suggestions and information offered.

Accuracy and Verifiability of Content
I strongly espouse the dissemination of accurate; unbiased information, verifiability of content and information quality while trying to maintain a neutral point of view. This ensures that anything challenged or likely to be challenged, including all quotations, be attributed to a reliable source in the form of an inline citation, and that the source directly supports the material in question. By its very nature some article content is original research but I try to ensure that information quality and a neutral point of view is consistently maintained

I strive to present complete and accurate information. To be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and updating as new products or technologies becomes available, so the articles are updated on a regular basis as necessary from current research. From time to time there may be information that contains typographical errors, inaccuracies, or omissions (because I’m human). These are unintended and TOGWT™ reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions and to change or update information at any time without prior notice.

Product Quality and Technique
Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used. Fundamentally the most important thing about products is how they perform

Aesthetics
The aesthetics- of a vehicles appearance is usually based upon an emotional reaction and is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis it all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application methodology and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder
Research

Research others opinions and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not marketing hype or brand loyalty.
I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice.

Product Application
Focusing on one person’s methodologies or the products they use will seriously limit your detailing experience and knowledge. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon. The misinformation and myths that are so prevalent in the detail industry is the reason that detailers need to do research on their own. I would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you.

Use of any information on these pages is used at the reader's own risk. The detailing methods set out here have been adapted for special use and may not be the same as those recommended by the product manufacturer, and you may experience different results from those stated. When in doubt always use common sense

Pre-test Spot Procedures
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.

Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc. Depending on the pH of the product you use you should return the surface to neutral (pH 7.0) before you apply any dressing or protective products. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment. Read the product labels and manufacturers safety data sheets (MSDS) to obtain a basic idea of contents, pH levels etc.

When spraying any surface with a liquid, it is always advisable to spray a small area first (test area) then allow to dry to make sure the solution does not react with the surface.
Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro fibre towel. Do not over wet. Use small amounts of the product and blot frequently, do not rub or use too much pressure. Do not use the product if it adversely changes the material’s colour or texture.

Information disclaimer
The information contained in these articles is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by TOGWT™ and while we endeavour to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the information, products, services, or related graphics for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.

In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of materials, time or any profits arise out of, or in connection with, the use of this information.

Current Information
To be of real practical use, a subject like automotive detailing requires a great deal of research, and updating as new products become available. The advent of materials like detailing clay, micro fibre technologies and finely milled micro diminishing abrasives, suitable for ceramic nanotechnology paints are examples of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis

Article Revisions / Updates
The advent of new materials like detailing clay, micro fibre, polymer coating, nano-particle technologies and new micro abrasives are examples of why it’s so important to monitor the industries new products, chemical technologies and ideas that are constantly being introduced, as are the techniques for applying them, hence all of the in-depth articles will be up-dated and revised on a regular basis

Removing Wheels

Don’t forget to use a torque wrench set to the correct pressure when re-installing wheels. Applying the correct torque (tightness) to fasteners decreases your chances of either stripping or breaking them, and ensures that they are not over or under tightened. Each time a wheel is refitted to your vehicle, the lug nuts should be tightened to the correct foot-pound setting.

Service Lifting Jack

The aluminium service jack from Tire Rack features a quick lift system with two-stage pump and dual return springs. Go from 3.5" ground height to a maximum height of 19.5" in 12 strokes or less, even under load. The jack's lightweight, aluminium design weighs only 50 lbs. for easy transport yet remains ideal for heavy-duty, 2-ton capacity use. Wide track casters and wheels allow for easy manoeuvrability while a rubber saddle pad and foam handle bumper protect the raised vehicle. A 50" handle is included.

• Lift Range: 3.5" to 19" (meets almost any application)
• Saddle Diameter: 4.75"
• Chassis Width: 13"
• Front Wheels: 2.5" x 1.75"
• Rear Caster Width: 1.25" x 1.25"

Torque Wrench

Don’t forget to use a torque wrench set to the correct pressure when re-installing wheels (75-100 with 85 foot-pounds as an average). Applying the correct torque (tightness) to fasteners decreases your chances of either stripping or breaking them, studs and lug nuts or wheel bolts should be initially tightened in an `X' pattern and ensures that they are not over or under tightened. Each time a wheel is refitted to your vehicle, the lug nuts should be tightened to the correct foot-pound setting with a high quality, accurate torque wrench.

Ensure that you torque the bolts to the foot-pound rating called for (see vehicle handbook or check with manufacturer) to correct torque settings to prevent rotor damage as you can warp the rotor easier by over tightening. The above combination of tyre / wheel care will ensure vehicle (and your / passenger) safety, maximize tyre life span and maintain vehicle ride and handling characteristics the way the vehicle Engineers / designers meant them to be.

They should be re-checked for tightness after approximately 100 miles of driving, do not ‘over tighten lug nuts as this could distort the rotors. Torque wrenches should have an audible `click' when the required torque setting is reached. They should be re-calibrated on a regular basis. A quality torque wrench is built to ISO 6789 or equivalent. Snap On Tools

Lug Nut Protection Sleeves

By using a tool like this you’ll avoid damage to the lug nuts - Astro Pneumatic 7870 Set (with Protecting Plastic Sleeves)

Rail Dust

Brake dust is every wheel’s worst enemy. Brake pads are manufactured from a range of materials including Kevlar fibres, Mono carbon fibres; Polymer based adhesives and metal particulates, all of which must factor into the cleaning process. The brake pads polymer adhesive residue can actually turn acidic, etching and pitting the wheel finish.

If you’ve ever noticed tiny spots on your wheels that appear to be road tar, it is more likely re-polymerized brake pad adhesives and bituminous asphalt (resin) that have combined as droplets that settle on the wheel and paint surfaces. Bituminous asphalt is actually easier to remove than re-polymerized adhesive, which virtually cements itself to the surface. The metal particulates become super-heated during braking and can puncture tiny holes into the wheel finish.

Small particles of metal (ferrous oxide) created by railroad wheels abrading the metal tracks, or from metallic brake shoes being abraded by rotors, these particles become airborne and pollute paint film surfaces. New cars that are transported by rail are at extra risk.

When moisture combines with the metal particles rust is formed, creating small orange / brown rust spots (especially visible on light coloured paint (white, silver, etc) It should be removed as soon as it’s noticed. These can usually be removed with detailer’s clay and / or a 100% acid-free wheel cleaner (P21S® Wheel Surface Cleaner)

If the rust spots become allied with acid rain it may permeate the paint surface, causing the paint to 'bubble' if this should happen the affected surface should be treated with a suitable rust inhibitor to avoid the rust contaminating other areas (See also Paint Decontamination article)

Note- the use of products containing Oxalic Acid to remove ferrous metals actually contribute to further damage of the paints resin system softening the paint, damaging soft exterior trim and aluminium creating long-term damage that may not be evident for months

Wheel Surface Cleaning

Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today's wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces.

There are many different finishes and materials available for rims, determine what type of rims, for example powder coated, painted, clear coated, polished, chromed , etc and then decide on an appropriate product and cleaning method.

Most modem automotive wheels have a painted aluminium base with two or three clear coats applied (on the ‘front’ of the wheel but not the back, these are usually just a primer paint surface) and are subjected to similar type contaminants as the paint film surface, including acid rain, airborne pollutants, alkaline water as well as road tar debris.

Wheel surfaces are subjected to intense heat, road oil and debris and generally they see more abuse than any other visible surface on the car. Wheel cleaning is not that difficult, especially if you use the correct tools, they have to work safely but effectively.

Wheel cleaners that contain acid are the most dangerous, there are wheel acids that are safe if used with care and the directions are followed precisely. Accidents and expensive wheel replacements can always be avoided if you do some research and are smart about your choices.

Any wheel cleaner that touts spray-on, hose-off without agitation is a danger to both you and the environment. Use a cleaner that contains no acids, petroleum solvents, butyl or butyl ethers of any kind. Spraying alloy wheels with an acid or lye-based cleaner will almost instantly remove the clear finish, staining the wheel surface a milky-white. An acid can migrate into miniscule cracks and fissures in the wheel's finish and begin to flake off the clear coat. A effective wheel cleaner should be pH-balanced (slightly alkaline to counteract the acidic conditions found on most roadways).

Always check the products MSDS and its pH value before you use it. It is always preferable that you use a 100% acid-free product with a pH of 7.5 – 8.5
pH-controlled [: means it follows the major automotive manufacturers guidelines for exterior cleaners; the control limit being a pH 10.0]

Wheel cleaner pH comparisons

• Amazing Roll-Off (pH 14.0) contains butyl
• Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity Cleaner (pH of 13.0) contains butyl
• Bilberry is acid free but highly caustic - 13.0
• Multi-purpose cleaners (pH between 9.5 and 12.0)
• Blackfire Gel Wheel and Tire Cleaner (pH 12.5)
• P21S® Bodywork Shampoo (ph 8.0)
• P21S Wheel Cleaner (pH 7.5)Green
• P21S Wheel Cleaner (422) Red Gel Formula (pH 9.5)
• Sonax Autopflege Wheel Cleaner full effect (pH 7.5)
• Menzerna Tire & Wheel Cleaner (pH7.5) detergent-based cleaners with surfactants, wetting agents and oil emulsifiers
• Groit’s Wheel Cleaner (pH 7.1)
• Meguiar's D140 Wheel Brightener (pH 5.5) contains Ammonium bifluoride SiO2 (ABF)

Butyl Cellosolve

Synonyms: Butyl (2-butoxyethanol, Butyl or butyl ether)

It's an unfortunate fact that most wheel cleaners made and sold in America contain butyl or butyl ether. Although butyl is a highly effective cleaner, as well as inexpensive, it is harmful to man and the environment. Plus, butyl will white-stain aluminium and damage clear coated wheels and powder coating finishes. Butyl is also very harsh on your skin, causes respiratory distress when inhaled, and it is not readily biodegradable.

Amazing Roll Off, Purple Power and Wesley's Bleche-Wite® Whitewall Cleaner all contain Butyl Cellosolve (2-butoxyethanol) Sodium Met silicate and Sodium Hydroxide, which are acidic, none of which are particularly paint, rubber or environmentally friendly. It may stain / etch clear coat painted wheel surfaces and zinc rotors as well as drying out tyres

Acid Dilution (Hydration)

The dilution of an acid doesn’t make it safer as the addition of a molecule of water to a chemical compound, without forming any other products is known as hydration (i.e. dilution causes the pH to decrease i.e. more acidic) But since pH is not a very good indicator of the strength of the acid in every system, this approach won't always produce the desired results. Acid will keep etching the surface if it isn't neutralized by an alkaline product.

Neutralised Acid Salt

Bases usually have an OH, Acids usually have an H, H+ OH form H2O the leftovers of the reactants form a salt. pH is the concentration of H ions in the solution. As the acid gets neutralized, more of the H ions combine with OH and form water lowering the H concentration and pH

Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base, producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid. This is the formulation used for both Sonax Wheel Cleaner full effect and P21S® Red Gel (422) pH 9.5

Reactivity

[: acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst]

Like any chemical attacking a surface temperature will dictate reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat]. The more heat and moisture that is present (in the form of high humidity, dew and etc) the more aggressive the acid becomes. Then you have; an acid + water +oxygen + ozone all of which forms an acidic oxygen molecule that causes a concave indentation (acid etching) to the paint surface it should be noted that until this acid is neutralised subsequent moisture and heat will reactivate the acid and allow further damage, as acid requires an alkaline to neutralize it

Exothermic Reaction

A chemical reaction that is accompanied by the release of heat; in other words, the energy needed for the reaction to occur is less than the total energy released, usually in the form of heat. [1]

Keeping Wheel Surfaces Clean

It is important to keep wheel surfaces clean, as well as improving the overall look of the vehicle leaving them dirty can have many adverse effects; the black powder coating on the surface of your wheel has four components; a static friction charge (caused by the pads contact with the rotors) that attracts dirt, road tar and other contaminants kicked up by both your vehicle and others. Friction heats the pads and callipers to extremely high temperatures, and causes tiny particles of hot metal to wear off and sent flying in different directions.

Many of these hot metal particles land on your rim and literally fuse themselves to the surface. Finally there is brake pad adhesive, modern brake pads are complex compounds of metals, synthetic materials and adhesives (the binder system) this is designed to wear away under friction like the rest of the pad.

The adhesives used in brake pads can be very difficult to remove and they are also corrosive and will etch the wheel surface, the metal particles from the pads and rotors will become a conduit for rust compromising the paint surface of your wheel

Cleaning Clear Coated Wheels

Bare (no clear coat) aluminium, using a metal polish will turn the cloth black; otherwise they probably have a clear coat paint finish. Ensure wheels and rotors are cool before applying cold water as this may cause them to warp.

• Hose off as much initial grime as you can.
• Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and other debris.
• Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded contaminants
• Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar or oil. Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing
• Spray P21S® Wheel Cleaner (Gel or Liquid) this cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and lat soak in
• For badly soiled surfaces us P21S®-Red (422) or Sonax Wheel Cleaner both are formulated with neutralised acid salt
• Used the P21S® Polishing Soap on the clean wheel to polish the lips, inner wheel, and face of the wheel. (agitate lightly on the clear coated parts)
• Before finally removing cleaner, agitate with a soft brush and then rinse off (See Wheel Brushes)
• Rinse wheel surface thoroughly with clean water (to avoid splashing paint surface rise by pouring a bucket of water over each wheel from the top down
• Remove any surface imperfections with a suitable clear coat polish (dependent upon extent of damage)
• Dry wheels with a forced air blower; these are extremely powerful and will dry the whole car and the wheels as well. A good tip; flush the rotors and callipers with water until it comes out clear.
• Apply polymer sealant (Wheel Wax, Collinite Metal Wax # 850 or ZoopSeal) to the surface of the wheels, it will protect the finish from brake dust and the elements and also make them easier to keep clean.
• Organic wax has a low melting point and will not withstand the sustained temperature

Sonax Autopflege Wheel Cleaner full effect

Used for the removal of sintered (heat fused) metal particulates, this product has the cleaning power of sulphuric acid but with a controlled pH by using a neutralised acid salt.
Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base. Common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, when mixed with water cause an exothermic chemical reaction, loosening the sintered ferrous metal particulates, which have been converted entirely to rust and disintegrates forming a miscible emulsion that can be rinsed away.

The main chemical used is Thioglycolic acid, simple sulphur (hence the pleasant smell) group- chained carboxylic acid, is a clear liquid; that’s water soluble. The product starts off green, then red and then to blood red.

Application - apply to a dry surface, allow to remain in place for approx five minute (do not allow to dry as it makes it significantly harder to remove) agitate and rinse. MSDS - http://www.mobile-image.co.za/extreme_msds.pdf

Lug Nut Brush

Made of polymer, the tips are "feathered" to eliminate scratches. They reach deep into wheel openings and scrub both the opening and the lug nut. They can also be used to clean narrow wheel slots and around tire stems, and are guaranteed not to scratch any polished wheel – PAC

This brush is designed to reach completely around any size lug nut, on any size wheel. The easy grip handle has rubber inserts to insure no slippage when wet. The unusual, wrap-around design is composed of three separate brushes inserted into the handle. Each brush is loaded with flexible bristles that completely remove any residue caught around the nut's perimeter - TOTL.

BBS Wheels

BBS manufactures the finest wheels for most of the top automotive manufacturers in the world: Ferrari, Lotus, Porsche, BMW, Toyota, Audi, Volkswagen, Daimler, Chrysler, Jaguar, Mazda, Volvo, Mitsubishi, Subaru, AMG, Citroen, Opel, Pininfarina, Saab, Peugeot, and Alpina. BBS, Dayton Wire Wheel Company, and The Tire Rack have approved Groit’s Wheel Cleaner for all of their wheels.

Multi-spoke (Wire) Wheels

Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar or oil. Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled spoke wheel brush (Lamb’s Wool Spoke Brush or an E-Z Detail Brush) before rinsing

Optimum Opti-Seal or Zaino Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal are both great spray on forms of protection for spoked wheels. You should spread evenly to ensure complete coverage. . However the good part is it dries totally clear so no removal is needed.

Urine Stain

May appear as a cloudy splash mark on the wheel surface, usually the wheel parked close to the curb and caused by an animal marking its territory, urine contains Uric acid and should be neutralized with an alkaline as soon as feasible as acid will etch and discolour and/or stain the surface. Baking soda (NaHCO3) neutralizes acids and alkaline, do not use just plain water as it acetifies an acid

Methodology

• Thoroughly rinse wheels with an alkaline wheel cleaner (P21S® Wheel Cleaner) and ‘or an alkaline solution of baking soda/water.
• Rinse thoroughly with low-pressure clean water
• If necessary use a polish to restore the lustre of polished metal and prevent re-oxidation (Iz einszett® Metal Polish "Chrompflege) and remove residue with a clean, dry micro fibre towel
• Use a one-step product (Klasse All-In-One) to provide both cleaning and long-term polymer protection; this will also make future cleaning easier.
• Apply with a damp applicator; remove residue with a clean, dry micro fibre towel, and finally buff surface to a shine.
• With all cleaning products, always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning (solvents) its protective layer(s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately.

Bituminous Asphalt Removal

[:The term asphalt is often used as an abbreviation for asphalt concrete, asphalt refers to a mixture of mineral aggregate and bitumen (tarmac) Composed almost entirely of bitumen, which is a category of organic liquids that are highly viscous, black, sticky and wholly soluble in carbon disulfide, mostly made up of highly condensed polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons]

The reasoning for the use of solvents for the removal of bituminous asphalt is that it dissolves as a means of removal, as opposed to friction. Asphalt is very sticky and its presence on your paint means that harder particulate matter (dirt/grit) has also stuck to it. By agitating or rubbing the dirt/grit that is contained within the bituminous asphalt will cause surface marring or possibly scratching, dissolution alleviates any potential surface damage.

A solvent (Stoner™ Tarminator or ValuGard’s New Vehicle Prep ) it simply emulsifies and dissolves the bituminous asphalt when you spray it directly to the surface, apply to the affected area, allow sufficient remain in place time, and carefully wipe off, you may have to apply it three or four times allowing plenty of remain in place time between applications. It can also dissolve a variety of oil and petroleum based products, it's safe to use on all types of paint, plastics, synthetic fibres, carpet and upholstery. If used on vehicle paintwork, carpet or fabric re-apply a protect rant after use.

Other uses - it will dissolve chewing gum and adhesives. Use to de-tar wheel rims after cleaning, will also remove shoe scuffmarks from vinyl trim, and can be used to remove tree sap or fuel stains from paint surfaces.

Notes- use caution if you use WD-40 for bituminous asphalt removal as it contains strong hydrocarbon (aliphatic) solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (become opaque, clouded or yellowed.

Alternative product - Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner - Meets Boeing Specs –D6 – 1748-7P (Water based, no solvents) - http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext_mor.phpAnhydrous Chemicals

Polishing Metals

Polishing with correctly formulated products will increase the life span of the metal, whereas the use of ammonia and anhydrous products has been proven to do the opposite. Anhydrous chemicals will dissolve Zinc, a major component of brass, and nearly always present on aluminium castings. Zinc is also often used to stop steel from corroding. Anhydrous chemicals can destroy these materials.

Polished Aluminium - When selecting a wheel cleaner you're cleaning the surface, not the underlying material. A bare, high polished aluminium wheel can shine almost like chrome, and unfortunately many people who buy this type of aftermarket wheel assume the wheels are chrome so they choose a chrome wheel cleaner, which used on bare, high polished aluminium, will stain the surface white almost instantly.

They can be either a clear coated, anodized, or bare polished aluminium in which case different types of polishes are needed for each. Test for bare (uncoated) aluminium by using a metal polish, which will turn the cloth black. There are two recommended products; each will work differently, used separately or in tandem, they will produce a great finish.


1. P21S® Polishing Soap – formulated with polishing clay and soap flakes, making it simple, gentle, and effective. Its primary function is to return metal to its stock finish. It will remove a lot of the tarnish from their finish, along with any other contaminants. It can also be used on lightly tarnished aluminium, exhaust tips, or any other tarnished metals.

2. P21S® Finish Restorer - this product is primarily a polish, used for metals to refine their finish as opposed to a cleaning product to remove contaminants from metal finishes. These two products can be used together, first using the polishing soap and then the finish restorer. Finish restorer can be used on its own on metal that is only lightly tarnished.

Note - Bare aluminium will oxidise (turn a yellowish colour) if a highly acidic or alkaline product is used.

Aluminium Wheel Polishing:

Un-coated aluminium wheels are an aftermarket product (not OEM) Uncoated (to test apply a mild polish, if the applicator turns black (a chemical reaction between nickel and the polish) then there is no clear coat on the paint finish, if the wheels are clear coated see Cleaning Wheels and Tyres. Uncoated aluminium is always in a state of tarnish.

OEM aluminium wheels are coated and should be cleaned like any other coated wheel finish. P21S® Polishing Soap – formulated with polishing clay and soap flakes, so it is simple, gentle, and effective, it will return metal to an OEM finish and it will remove most of the tarnish, as well as any other contaminants. It also works on any lightly tarnished aluminium in your engine bay, exhaust tips, or any other metals that are tarnished.

P21S® Finish Restorer - this is a polishing product to refine a cleaned finish as opposed to cleaning, it’s formulated to polish metals and refine their finish. Used after the surface has been cleaned with the polishing soap or as a finish restorer on metal that is only lightly tarnished.

Methodology

• Ensure wheels and rotors are cool before applying cold water as this may cause the rotors warp. Hose off as much initial grime as you can.
• Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and other debris.
• Use detailing clay to remove any imbedded contaminants
• Remove road tar with a solvent (Stoners™ Tarminator)
• Apply P21S® Total Auto Wash or P21S® Polishing Soap (a clay-based polish that applies with its own sponge) to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing
• Remove surface brake dust with a 100% acid-free and neutral pH wheel cleaner (P21S® Wheel Cleaner)
• For really soiled surfaces use Sonax Wheel Cleaner full effect on a dry surface
• Agitate with a soft boar’s hair wheel brush and rinse with low-pressure clean water
• Remove scratches with finishing grit paper (grit number will depend upon severity of scratch)
• To remove tough stains such as oxidation and acid rain water spots, use a cutting polish (Wenol Original (Red tube) or a fine metal polish (Auto Wenol Blue tube) to remove rain water spotting and produce a bright shine (follow Wenol Original with Auto Wenol) apply products with a 100% DFT cotton micro towel
• Magnesium or aluminium wheels can be polished with a water-soluble polish (Happich Semichrome Polish, ECP Showman Polish or Autosol)
• For difficult to reach places use a felt polishing buffer on an electric drill (Dremal or Groit's Felt Polishing Cone Set)
• Apply a polymer sealant for long lasting protection (Zoopseal or Klasse All-In-One)

Cleaning Chrome Wheels

Use a product that doesn’t contain harsh solvents, petroleum distillates or ammonia. P21S® Metal Polishing Soap – formula is a pH controlled, acid free, water based detergent, a pleasant-smelling, non-toxic soap, which allows you to clean and polish in one quick and easy step (not intended for use on painted, clear coated or anodized surfaces) it is a solid, clay-based (Kaolin) cleaner that applies with its own sponge. Simply wet the sponge with clean water and squeeze the sponge to create lather and then begin polishing, finally rinse with clean water.

This formula was specially designed to release deeply embedded contaminates like brake dust, fresh tar, road grime, oxidation and more. While cleaning the surface it is also polishing the wheel surface. Protect the surface with a polymer sealant (Zaino, Rejex, or etc)

Polishing chrome – Deep Chrome Polish or Blue-Job Chrome Polish is formulated to remove the blue without scratching the chrome finish; it is completely safe for you and the environment. It’s non-toxic, non-irritating, and all natural; pH balanced, and does not generate noxious fumes. It contains no acids, petroleum distillates, harsh chemicals, or wax. Chrome does not require a protectant; a quick wipe down between polishes will suffice
Note- some ‘high polished’ chrome and aluminium wheels (including those that come stock on Corvette C6) have a clear coat applied; if so don’t use an abrasive polish on them. Polishing Soap is non-toxic and biodegradable

Metal Polishing

Custom blended polish to suit every metal polishing application. Metal polish for aluminium, silver, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper or bronze - English Custom Polishing (ECP)

Wheel Detailing Brush

a) The Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush - has a thicker, reinforced stem, but maintains its flexibility although the new stem is more rugged for frequent use on auto wheels. The bristles are slightly feathered on the ends to gently clean delicate wheel finishes, such as coated or plated wheels, without scratching.

b) E-Z Detail Brush - is 18 inches long, 4-1/2 inches in diameter and is super-soft with Nylex bristles, a material that combines the softness of a natural bristle with the strength of nylon. There's a vinyl tip bonded to the top of the brush and a knuckle guard on the handle but the most impressive feature of this brush is the flexible, inner core. This vinyl-coated wire core will bend in every imaginable direction which allows the brush to get into areas where few other brushes can reach.

E-Z Detail Brush, there are three versions of the brush
• Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush (18 x 4.5 – inch)
• EZ Detail Brush mini (13 x 2.5 – inch )
• EZ Detail Motorcycle Brush (18 x 4.5-inch )

c) Lamb’s wool wheel cleaning brushes - called Wheel Woolies; these brushes drastically cut the amount of time it takes to clean almost any kind of wheel. Each brush is 12- inches long with a chemical resistant handle and a bonded wool head. Proper Auto Care

d) Spoke & Slot Brush - simple, safe, and effective, ultra-soft bristles squeeze into wheel crevices. Lamb’s Wool Spoke Brush - it replaces those awkward spoke brushes that never seem to be the right size and lack soft bristles on the tip. This tapered ultra soft tool is completely covered with 100% lamb’s wool and is small enough to squeeze between spokes, slots and around bolts 6 1/2" long, 1/2" to 2" in diameter - TOTL

f) Microfiber Cleaning Wand - the special microfiber thick nap cleans tight spaces in; (0.5"x1.5"x12") wheels use dry or moisten with water for extra cleaning power - no chemical cleaners are needed Machine washable, air dry, and no fabric softener. Refills are available – Casabella

g) Power Sticks - are designed to be used with your cordless drill, simply wet the wheel with water, spray on your favourite wheel cleaner, attach the Power Stick to your cordless drill, dip the brush end into a bucket of soapy water and allow the friction of the Power Stick's Super Soft Cloth to gently scrub away brake dust clear to the back of the wheel.

h) Deluxe Wheel & Brake Dust Remover Brush - was created to make sure those wheels aren't overlooked. It offers a strong scour pad to remove brake dust from your wheel, as well as an outer soft bristles to clean wheels while protecting that new wheel finish. Grip Tech™ handle for non-slip, easy to grip, with stiff bristle tips to clean in between spokes flexible brush that bends to get into hard to reach rim crevices Removes brake dust and other grime while keeping the wheels shiny and clean

Wheel Surface Sealant – use a polymer based sealant to protect the freshly cleaned surface and maintain the finish (Wheel Wax, Zanio, Duragloss, Opti-Seal, etc) wheels will be easier to clean and stay cleaner longer

Wheel Surface Sealants

Apply a sealant after cleaning to make maintenance easier, use a synthetic polymer sealant to protect wheel surfaces as it has a high melting point (350.oF +) The melting point of an organic wax (180.oF+) is too low for the normal temperatures encountered by vehicle wheel surfaces (195.oF+) Also using a polymer sealant enables the wheel surface to resist the adhesion of brake dust, dust and dirt, and road grime and it makes surface cleaning much easier using only a car wash concentrate and water solution.

WheelWax - safe for all wheels, painted, anodized, polished or clear coated. Just wipe it on, let it dry to a haze and wipe it off. For maximum shine, rinse the wheels with cool water and buff to a high shine.

Swissvax Autobahn Wheel Wax - this product was developed for German customers of fast motor cars with alloy or magnesium wheels. The product has been tested on German Autobahns on cars with top speeds of 185 MPH (300 KPM) in Switzerland during the winter. Switzerland has one of the harshest road climates in the world using salt and harsh winter chemicals, and on racetracks in Austria and Germany.

G|techniqu S1 SmartMetal Nanocoat – a one-component clear coating based upon chemical nanotechnology that offers a transparent and optically neutral coating for smooth, non absorbing surfaces. Sealed surfaces are easy to maintain, without the need for any special cleansing agents, and are resistant to fresh soiling of the surfaces.
Used on metals offers a long-life protection against corrosion and because of its long lasting adhesion to the base material surface, and is highly resistant to mechanical and chemical attack as well as offering exceptional UV protection. For use on stainless-steel, chrome, aluminium, brass, copper and already coated surfaces. Not intended for use on glass or on plastic materials.

Application – an airbrush or HVLP paint spray gun (5/16-inch (8mm) nozzle at 30 PSI (2 bar) to provide a single, thin (3-10 µ) and uniform coverage for this type of coating

Maintenance- this coating requires no special maintenance and should last for around two years. Coating longevity will be improved if wheels are cleaned only with either normal car shampoo or citrus degreaser. Avoid acid wheel cleaners.

Polish Buffers

Mushroom shaped buffers (with a ¼-inch mandrel) allow you to access tight spaces; these buffing wheels have fine-weave cotton, mushroom-shape that works faster than conventional felt bobs and also lasts longer. The ¼ - inch smooth shaft resists slipping in your drill chuck while its plastic ferrule prevents scratching the recessed areas of your work piece. The Facer Buffs are used for getting into tighter areas, 1, and 2 or 3-inch sizes available. Eastwood's Mushroom Buff

Billet Aluminium Wheels

To remove tough stains such as oxidation and acid rain water spots, use a cutting polish (Wenol Original - Red tube) use a fine metal polish (Auto Wenol Blue tube) to remove rain water spotting and produce a bright shine (follow Wenol Original with Auto Wenol) apply products with a 100% DFT cotton micro towel, or place a soft cotton buffing wheel on an electric drill

Magnesium (Mag) Wheels

Some polishes are advertised as a mag and aluminium polish. This is misleading as you cannot produce a high shine on magnesium. You can clean and remove oxidization from magnesium, but you cannot polish it. Even producing a shine on mag alloys depends on the amount of magnesium content. Modern alloy wheels are usually clear coated.

Menzerna Gel 7.5 Wheel & Tire Cleaner- pH-Neutral (7.5) a detergent-based cleaner with surfactants, wetting agents and emulsifiers (for cutting road oils) which quickly cleans both tires and wheels yet is as gentle to the surface as drinking water! This cleaner contains no acids, petroleum solvents, butyl or butyl ethers of any kind, neither acidic or alkaline it cleans tires and all types of wheels including billet aluminium, plated, polished, anodized, powder coat, painted and clear coated. - Classic Motoring Accessories

Alternative products –Europe's famous automakers; BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Audi, VW and Volvo all use and recommend P21S®® Wheel Cleaners to remove brake dust and road grime from their alloy wheels Developed in 1976 by a German chemist, P21S® is a safe, pH-controlled, and non-acid, non-lye based detergent that provides terrific cleaning and guarantees not to damage any type of wheel: painted, clear-coated, polished or anodized.

1. Sonax Wheel Cleaner full effect - the best of both worlds; the cleaning power of an acid wheel cleaner with a (safe) pH of 7.0 by using a neutralised acid salt; neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid (hence the red colour, which is a chemical reaction (oxidation) with the metal particles) and the smell (sulphur) This product safely encapsulates the iron oxide (brake / rail dust particulates) to enable it to be rinsed away

2. P21S® Gel or Liquid Wheel Surface Cleaner (Green) originally developed in 1976 by a German chemist; a water-based, (non-acid) pH balanced detergent that provides terrific cleaning and guarantees not to damage painted, clear-coated, or anodized wheels

3. P21-S Wheel Cleaner (Felgen-Reiniger) Power Gel (Red) – manufacturers approved way to remove corrosive brake dust and road grime from alloy wheels. Safe, pH controlled, formula is guaranteed not to harm any type of road wheel, braking system or other automotive surface, works safely and effectively on every type of wheel and coating, removes brake pad adhesive and sequestered metal brake dust safely - Performance Motor care or Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

4. Alloy Wheel Cleaner- a specialised product for cleaning alloy wheels, an aqueous blend of acids and emulsifiers it’s a completely water-soluble product – Clover Chemicals

5. Power Wheel Wash (an acid based wheel cleaner but it is not hydrofluoric acid based)

6. ValuGard Custom Wheel Cleaner

MSDS

Before using a product, read and understand the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), which provides information on health, physical and environmental hazards, handling precautions and first aid recommendations. An MSDS is available on request. Avoid overexposure. Obtain medical care in case of extreme overexposure.

Notes:
1 .It is important to read and understand the MSDS, process specification, and technical data sheet before working with these products.
2. Acid or highly alkaline wheel cleaner can prematurely age and damage calliper rubber seals
3. Wheel cleaners that are formulated with acid or a high alkali should not be used if the wheel surface is compromised as it will permeate the surface and cause the wheel finish to fail and may cause structural failure
Permanent damage can result from the incorrect use of acid-based wheel cleaners

Ammonium Hydrogen Fluoride

Other names: Ammonium bifluoride - NH4HF2 (ABF) Ammonium hydro fluoride, Ammonium acid fluoride

[: Ammonium hydrogen fluoride is the inorganic compound with the formula NH4HF2. It is produced from ammonia and hydrogen fluoride]

One of the most common, and potentially dangerous, wheel cleaners; its effectiveness removing brake dust and difficult contaminants from chrome wheels is undisputed, but some chemists say ABF presents an unjustifiable and potentially lethal risk to carwash operators and their employees.

Industry experts say that the dangers of ABF are clearly outlined on the chemical's Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), and many consciously ignore the obvious risks because ABF is cost effective and reliable. However, some manufacturers and operators worry that Ammonium bifluoride (ABF) is being marketed as a safe alternative to highly-corrosive
The fluoride quickly bonds to anything reactive (brake dust, road grime, skin, nerve tissue, bones!) and forms a passive material. The passivated brake dust will then no longer bond to the surface.

Hydrofluoric acid (HF), even though the two chemicals pose nearly identical health risks, experts say that some operators have been lead to believe that ABF is up to 20 times safer than HF and that this misinformation may be causing a time bomb at hundreds of carwashes
Hydrofluoric acid; that is a solution of hydrogen fluoride in water, it is corrosive, meaning it will have a detrimental (and sometimes unrecoverable effect on surfaces it’s applied too) and it is also highly poisonous. The application instructions usually state- ‘apply, but do not allow product to remain on the surface for more than 30 seconds before removal with a strong stream of water’.

Skin contact with concentrated hydrofluoric acid or inhalation of its vapour has caused many serious injuries, even death. Concentrated solutions of hydrofluoric acid pass quickly through the skin and cause deep, painful burns. Dilute solutions also penetrate the skin, but it does not give the immediate burning sensation caused by the concentrated form of the acid, a user may tend to be less aware of the contact with the acid.

There are specific ordinance to enforce Hydrofluoric acid hazard spill control / exposure and treatment methods and specific materials, most of which are just not going to be in the enthusiast or even mobile detailer's toolkit, non-compliance can result in heavy penalties.
It also has the unique ability to dissolve almost all inorganic oxides. In the human body, hydrofluoric acid reacts with calcium and damages nerves, bone, and several organs including the heart and kidneys. Normal alkaline materials don't neutralize the effect of HF.

You need an alkaline material that contains calcium; it is recommended to have Calcium gluconate available when handling HF. - Hydrofluoric acid - Hydrofluoric acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Critics say the lack of knowledge about chemicals exposes a system where environmental regulators largely rely on companies that profit from industrial chemicals to sound alarms about their safety. Questions about potential effects on human health and the environment often aren't raised until years after a chemical is introduced to the marketplace.

Chemists say it's the Fluoride ions in HF and ABF (NH (4) F) that make many wheel cleaners and pre-soaks so potentially dangerous. Whether fluoride ions enter body tissues as the result of inhalation or skin contact, they cause deep, progressive burning that may quickly lead to multi-organ failure and death. Long-term exposure to even minimal amounts of ABF can lead to brittle bones, weight loss, anaemia, and calcified ligaments

Meguiar's D140 Wheel Brightener - has a NFPA health rating of 3, which reads [: Short exposure could cause serious temporary or residual injury even though prompt medical attention was given]

[This product is for use by professional car washes and detailers only and is NOT intended for home use] Meguiar's although this product is for sale to the general public]

This is a strong acid, formulated with Ammonium bifluoride- SiO2 (ABF) and Quaternary ammonium salts are used as phase transfer catalysts for reactions involving immiscible solvent systems, such as the synthesis of dichlorocarbene with chloroform and sodium hydroxide. The addition of a molecule of water to a chemical compound, without forming any other products is known as hydration (i.e. dilution causes the pH to decrease)
But since pH is not a very good indicator of the strength of the acid in every system, this approach won't always produce the desired results.

Original pH of Meguiar's Wheel Brightener = 5.06

Dilution Resultant (increase the acidity)
Ratio pH
(1:2) 4.72
(1:4) 4.50 (as recommended by Meguiar's)
(1:10) 4.23
(1:15) 4.11

This product requires certain safety measures be taken; eye protection, respirator and gloves. You should only apply to cool wheels (or it will become a strong vapour, you’ll also need to wet down cement as it can stain it. Do not use this product if the clear coat on your wheel has been compromised by rock chips, hitting a curb etc as it could permeate the clear coat (or polished wheel surface) fogging or permanently staining the surface.

For these reasons Meguiar's markets this product to professionals (The statement made by Megs is that it’s a ‘Professional Product’ whatever that means, as it can be purchased by anyone)

After reading this information, you may want to run the other way from products such as these. Wheel acids can still be used safely if certain precautions are taken. The first thing I look for is a product that does not have a large concentration level of any kind of acid. If the concentration level of HF even approaches 10%, I look for something else where the level is more in the 5% or less range. Sulphuric acids should be in the 10% or less range.
This automatically makes the product less aggressive to start. I also look for the pH level to be as high as possible. I don’t want anything less than a pH of 2.0 in any product I purchase. Remember, the more the number creeps toward the middle, or 7 on the pH scale, the more neutral it becomes, and the safer it is both for you and the wheels.

The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) also recommend employers provide a series of gels, injections and pills to combat fluoride poisoning. If these precautions sound extreme, think again. Lethal doses of ABF and HF are estimated between one teaspoon and one ounce. A fluoride burn covering less than two percent of the body can be fatal."

MSDS Meguiar's Wheel Brightener - http://www.meguiars.com/msds/D140.pdf

Notes
1. The wheel surface stains left from using a strong acid-based cleaner should be wet-sanded and then polished; this will lighten the stains but not totally remove them.
2. There is a thin line between effective cleaning and dangerous to use products; so before using any chemicals or solvents carefully read all of the cautions and medical information on the products container and / or MSDS.
3. Always follow all of the manufacturer’s recommendations. Ensure that you wear eye protection and acid-proof gloves; this is mandatory. No matter how safe an acidic product is advertised, never run the risk of it splashing in your eye or permeating your skin.
4. Use a product that has a low acid concentration level (i.e. Sulphuric, Phosphoric and Nitric acid. 10%, or less) with as low a pH level as you can find, this constitute a less aggressive product. Oxalic acid is relatively safer and yet still very effective to use on most wheels. A wheel cleaner containing Oxalic acid is far safer yet still very effective to use on most wheels. It will do a far better job than high alkaline cleaners, yet is nowhere near as harmful to the vehicle or yourself
5. Acid is highly corrosive; the skull and crossbones warning on an acid label is there for a reason; acids will etch or erode anything in its path, they are also very effective in dissolving metals and etching glass.
6. The dilution of an acid doesn't make it safer as the addition of a molecule of water to a chemical compound, without forming any other products is known as Hydration (it leaves the non-water component intact) dilution has no effect on the pH) But since pH is not a very good indicator of the strength of the acid in every system, this approach won't always produce the desired results.
7. We typically talk about acid-base reactions in aqueous-phase environments; that is, in the presence of water. The most fundamental acid-base reaction is the dissociation of water (breaking down of a compound into its components to form ions from an ionic substance)
8. 7 A wheel cleaner formulated with Oxalic acid is a safer yet still very effective cleaning chemical. It will do a better job than alkaline cleaners, but is nowhere near as harmful to the vehicle or yourself. Oxalic acid is a relatively strong "weak acid" Oxalic acid exhibits many of the reactions characteristic of other carboxylic acids, it’s a relatively strong organic acid, being about 10,000 times stronger than acetic acid (Vinegar pH 2).
9. This acid still needs to be handled with care and diluted correctly, but it’s safer than Hydrofluoric acid yet a very effective alternative.
10. Do not confuse hydrochloric acid (HCL) with hydrofluoric (HF, has a pH of 3.14) acid because of the similarity of names. On the skin, hydrochloric acid burns from the outside in. Hydrofluoric acid solution readily penetrates the skin and burns both skin and deeper tissues. If enough acid is absorbed, it may lethally affect the heart and nervous system.
11. 10.Ammonium hydrogen fluoride NH4HF2 (or Ammonium bifluoride SiO2(ABF) is miss-classified as the safe alternative to hydrogen fluoride, once mixed with water it becomes hydrogen fluoride one of the most common, and dangerous, acid wheel cleaners used in automatic car washes today. Its effectiveness removing brake dust and difficult contaminants from wheels is undisputed, but most chemists say Ammonium bifluoride presents an unjustifiable and potentially lethal risk.
12. Always check the products MSDS and its pH value before you use it. It is always preferable that you use a 100% acid-free product with a pH of 7.5 – 8.0

Neutralization of acids and bases

Sodium bicarbonate or sodium hydrogen carbonate is the chemical compound with the formula NaHCO3Many laboratories keep a bottle of sodium bicarbonate powder within easy reach, because sodium bicarbonate is amphoteric, reacting with acids and bases. Furthermore, as it is relatively innocuous in most situations, there is no harm in using excess sodium bicarbonate.

Mix a small amount, about half a cup of sodium bicarbonate and a little water to make a fairly thick paste; spread it on the affected surface working it around well and let it sit for 0.5 – 0.75 hour, remove, rinse and dry.

Tar (Bituminous Asphalt) Removal

[:The term asphalt is often used as an abbreviation for asphalt concrete, asphalt refers to a mixture of mineral aggregate and bitumen (tarmac) Composed almost entirely of bitumen, which is a category of organic liquids that are highly viscous, black, sticky and wholly soluble in carbon disulfide, mostly made up of highly condensed polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons]

The reasoning for the use of solvents for the removal of bituminous asphalt is that it dissolves it as a means of removal, as opposed to rubbing it. Asphalt is very sticky and its presence on your paint means that harder particulate matter (dirt/grit) has also stuck to it. By agitating or rubbing the dirt/grit that is contained with the bituminous asphalt will cause surface marring or possibly scratching, dissolution alleviates any potential surface damage.

Always utilise a safe solvent that does not contain any harmful components (heptanes or xylene or hydrocarbon aliphatic solvents (Stoner™ Tarminator) that simply emulsifies and dissolves the bituminous asphalt / tar /grease when you spray it directly on the paint film surface It is important not to leave a solvent based chemical on the paint finish longer than is necessary. Simply apply to the affected area, allow sufficient remain in place time, and carefully wipe off, you may have to apply it three or four times allowing plenty of "remain in place time" between applications.

Other uses –it can also dissolve a variety of oil and petroleum based products, it's safe to use on all types of paint, plastics, synthetic fibres, carpet and upholstery. If used on vehicle paintwork re-apply a protect rant after use it will dissolve chewing gum and adhesives. Use to de-tar wheel rims after cleaning, will also remove shoe scuffmarks from vinyl trim, and can be used to remove tree sap or fuel stains from paint surfaces.

With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately.

Alternative product – Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner - Meets Boeing Specs –D6 – 1748-7P (Water based, no solvents) - http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext_mor.php

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)

A Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) should be available for every chemical you use. Read these and follow the recommendations for safe use and disposal of the material.
A Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is a fact sheet developed by manufacturers describing the chemical properties of a product. Material Safety Data Sheets include brand-specific information such as physical data (solid, liquid, colour, melting point, flash point, etc.), health effects, first aid, reactivity, storage, handling, disposal, personal protection and spill/leak procedures. As required by the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA), the target audience for information in a MSDS is the occupation worker who may be exposed to chemicals at work. However, much of the information is also relevant to consumers.

An MSDS is a document that contains details of the hazards associated with a particular chemical and provides information regarding its safe use. They are not actual formulations but are primarily used for the safe handling, shipping, storage and disposal of chemicals and usually only list chemical families, not the actual chemical. The Federal Government requires manufacturers of any chemicals to have a Material Safety Data Sheet available. When accessing MSDS documents, please note that certain data fields will be generic and may or may not reflect the information relevant to the recipient and/or the material / package size (including but not limited to the manufacturer / supplier address)
How to Read a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)

Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS#)

Each CAS registry number (often referred to as CAS #) is a unique numeric identifier that designates only one substance; it has no specific chemical significance, but is a link to a wealth of information about a specific chemical substance.

Since CAS Registry Numbers are not dependent upon any system of chemical nomenclature, they can provide a reliable common link between the various nomenclatures terms used to describe substances. And serve as an international resource for chemical substance identifiers used by scientists, industry, and regulatory bodies

Callipers:

Brake callipers are cast ductile iron on most production cars, on ultra high performance cars they are usually aluminium. A way to spice up the look and at the same time protects the callipers from corrosion. The Calliper Paint System features aircraft quality paint, available in six different high gloss colours, Red, Yellow, Blue, Silver, Black, & Purple. The paint is heat resistant up to 925oF; this paint won't start running into your brake pads, it also seals and protects against corrosion.

Brake dust and dirt will not adhere to the calliper surface since adding the paint. The kit includes everything you'll need to get the job done, besides paint you'll also get reactor (special bonding agent), high tech calliper cleaner, mixing sticks, and a brush. Do not attempt to paint the rotor contact surface. G2-Performance Engineering Inc.

Cleaning- ensure that the brake callipers are cool to the touch; never use a cleaner on hot callipers, wheels or brakes. Use a pH balanced cleaner just for an extra level of safety. Spray the cool calliper with d-limonene (citrus) based solvent P21S® Wheel Cleaner Gel or P21S® Polishing Soap, which contains micro-abrasives, agitate with a soft brush and then rinse off with clean water. Wipe surfaces with a soft wash mitt, sponge or micro fibre towel.

Protection - apply a protection to the face of the calliper using a polymer sealant (the melting point of most waxes is too low for the heat attained by wheel / calliper surfaces) similar to that used on your paint (Wheel Wax, Zanio, Duragloss, Opti-Seal, etc)

Rotors

Zinc Aero Rotors are available either drilled or slotted, an optional anti-corrosion gold zinc coating benefits those who live in cold climates, where snow and road salt are commonly encountered. Zinc coating also benefits detailers who prefer no visible surface rust on the vanes and outer circumference of rotors Quick Stop Pro

High Performance Rotors Brake Disc

A service to address the issue for drilled and slotted rotors that requires sanding each slot and hole with a Dremel then using a high-temp clear coat when finished, the clear coat is applied by brush and the surface of the rotor is finely sanded to remove excess clear coat so it does not come in contact with the brake pad, therefore leaving any and all high-temp clear coat in the slots or drilled holes.$30.00/Rotor off the car, return shipped in 2-3 days. Jason Auto Spa- http://www.jasonsautospa.com/ck

Disc Brake Bedding In

All cast iron brake discs need to be bedded-in to ensure heat stabilisation and improve resistance to cracking. Cracks or even disc failure can occur during the first few heavy stops if careful bedding is not carried out. AP Racing recommends the following procedure:-
Bedding the disc from new or stress relieving the cast iron disc after it has been clamped to the mounting bell is of paramount importance if premature warping is to be avoided after the brakes are used to their full potential.

For road car installations the process needs to be as follows:-
For the first 10 miles, light braking from 50/60 mph down to 30 mph if possible in blocks of 5. Do not attempt any high-speed stops down to zero at this point, as only the faces will heat up with the mass remaining cool along with the mounting area. For the next 100 miles increase the braking pressures similar to stopping in traffic, again avoiding if possible full stops from above 70 mph. By now the area around the mounting bolts should be a light blue temper colour.

This is a good indication that the correct heat soak has been achieved. For the next 100 miles gradually increase the braking effort after this full power stops can be used. The disc should now be an even dark to light blue temper colour, depending on the pad type and the braking effort being used during the process.

Ceramic Disc Pads

Asbestos pads caused health issues and organic compounds can’t always meet a wide range of braking requirements. Unfortunately the steel strands used in semi-metallic pads to provide strength and conduct heat away from rotors also generate noise and are abrasive enough to increase rotor wear. First used as original equipment manufacturer (OEM) in ’85, friction materials that contain ceramic formulations

Ensure that the ceramic brake pads and rotors match (a ceramic system) otherwise you will have problems with stopping when the pads / rotors are cold or wet, which could warp the rotors and cause bearings to fail due to overheating. Although a ceramic brake disc absorbs heat faster than a steel brake disc, it is also able to disperse it quickly. A consistently high braking performance is therefore guaranteed.

One of the characteristics that make ceramic materials attractive is the absence of noticeable dust. All brake pads produce dust (including ceramics) as they wear. The ingredients in ceramic compounds produce a light coloured dust that is much less noticeable and less likely to stick to the wheels. Consequently, wheels and tires maintain a cleaner appearance longer.

To avoid brake-generated noise and dust brake friction materials have evolved significantly over the years, going from asbestos to organic to semi-metallic formulations. Each of these materials has proven to have advantages and disadvantages regarding environmental friendliness, wear, and noise and stopping capability.

Using ceramic compounds and copper fibres in place of the semi-metallic pad’s steel fibres, allows the ceramic pads to handle high brake temperatures with less heat fade, provide faster recovery after a stop, and generate less dust and wear on both the pads and rotors.
From a comfort standpoint, ceramic compounds provide much quieter braking because the ceramic compound helps dampen noise by generating a frequency beyond the human hearing range. Another characteristic that makes ceramic materials attractive is the absence of noticeable dust.

All brake pads produce dust as they wear. The ingredients in ceramic compounds produce a light coloured dust that is much less noticeable; consequently, wheels and tires maintain a cleaner appearance longer.

Ceramic pads meet or exceed all OEM standards for durability, stopping distance and noise. According to durability tests, ceramic compounds extend brake life compared to most other semi-metallic and organic materials and outlast other premium pad materials by a significant margin; with no sacrifice in noise control, pad life or braking performance. What is important though is that car's rotors are designed for ceramic pads; otherwise the rotors will typically wear faster. (Check with the vehicle manufacturer)
Stopping Distances

At the speeds that stopping distance is generally measured from (60 to 70 MPH), the test is primarily testing the tyres grip on the pavement. As delivered from the manufacturer, nearly all vehicles are able to engage the ABS or lock the wheels at these speeds.
Therefore, an increase in braking power will do nothing to stop the vehicle in a shorter distance. For this reason, we do not record stopping distances at this time. The Brembo brake systems will show their greatest advantages when braking from higher speeds, or when tasked with repeated heavy braking.

Cleaning

Any diluted car wash concentrate, d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) or pH neutral cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) should be fine to use on ceramic brakes as they produce very little brake dust (being non-metallic) they just attract the normal amount of road dust, dirt and grime

Reactivity

[: acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst] surface temperature will dictate reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat] the rate of any chemical reaction doubles with every 20.0F increase in temperature

Corrosion

[: Water has a low electrical conductivity, but this increases significantly with the dissolution of a small amount of ionic material such as sodium chloride. Sodium chloride CI and water H2O produce oxides, which in turn cause corrosion] [1]

Rust (Oxidation) [: electrochemical oxidation of metals in reaction with an oxidant such as oxygen] [1]

Needless to state a sprayed brine alkaline solution is corrosive; so once you've removed the ice / snow it may be advisable to remove the residue and apply a protective coating, especially on the undercarriage and suspension. Once heat is added to the brine solution (i.e. parked in a heated garage) like any chemical attacking a surface, temperature will dictate reactivity (acceleration of a chemical reaction by a catalyst [moisture and heat].

Rust removal

Phosphoric acid may be used as a rust converter; by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces. The phosphoric acid converts reddish-brown iron oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate (FePO4)

"Rust converter" is sometimes a greenish liquid suitable for dipping (in the same sort of acid bath as is used for pickling metal), but it is more often formulated as a gel, commonly called naval jelly. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces.
After treatment, the black ferric-phosphate coating can be washed off, leaving a fresh paint surface. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it will provide moderate further corrosion resistance [1]

Follow up with a rust protection aerosol can of ValuGard Rust Inhibitor and/or some Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti-Rust.

Stabilizing pH

The generally accepted method for the neutralization of acids and bases; stabilizing a high alkaline (pH 7.5+) is to buffer it with an acid (pH 7.5-) Acid will keep reacting with any surface it’s applied to if it isn't neutralized by an alkaline product.
Innovative Chemicals Inc. SaltX - SALT-X

Material data sheets (MSDS)

Be aware of dangerous ingredients and request Materials Safety and Data Sheets (MSDS) from the manufacturer if there is any question.

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is required under the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard. The MSDS is a detailed informational document prepared by the manufacturer or importer of a hazardous chemical. It describes the physical and chemical properties of the product. MSDS’s contain useful information such as flash point, toxicity, procedures for spills and leaks, and storage guidelines.

Information included in a Material Safety Data Sheet aids in the selection of safe products, helps you understand the potential health and physical hazards of a chemical and describes how to respond effectively to exposure situations. Although there is an effort currently underway to standardize MSDS’s the quality of individual MSDS’s vary. A MSDS may be useful but it cannot substitute for prudent practices and comprehensive risk management.
An MSDS should be available for every chemical you use. Read these and follow the recommendations for safe use and disposal of the material. The target audience for information in a MSDS is the occupation worker who may be exposed to chemicals at work. However, much of the information is also relevant to consumers.

Read the manufacturers application instructions and then obtain and read the MSDS sheet to ascertain the chemicals used. Although it should be said that an MSDS is a document that contains details of the hazards associated with a particular chemical and provides information regarding its safe use. The MSDS is required to state the chemical's risks, safety and impact on the environment.

An MSDS is a fact sheet developed by manufacturers describing the chemical properties of a product. Material Safety Data Sheets include brand-specific information such as physical data (solid, liquid, colour, melting point, flash point, etc.), health effects, first aid, reactivity, storage, handling, disposal, personal protection and spill/leak procedures.

How to Read a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) How to Read a Material Safety Data Sheet | CMHC

Chemical Information (MSDS) A-Z- The Most Complete Free Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) list of chemical information on the Internet

Definitions of Terms Used in Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) - Definition of Terms Used in Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS's)

Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS)

Each CAS registry number (often referred to as CAS #) is a unique numeric identifier that designates only one substance; it has no specific chemical significance, but is a link to a wealth of information about a specific chemical substance. Since CAS Registry Numbers are not dependent upon any system of chemical nomenclature, they can provide a reliable common link between the various nomenclatures terms used to describe substances. And serve as an international resource for chemical substance identifiers used by scientists, industry, and regulatory bodies

Environmental Commitment

Contamination of surface waters arises from the rinseate discharging to storm drains, which in turn most commonly drain to rivers and lakes. Chief pollutants include phosphates; cleaning chemicals (degreasers, etc) oil and grease. This is almost exclusively an issue for home/driveway washing. You should never assume that aqueous solutions can be disposed of untreated via the storm drainage system. Pending regulations are in place (Clean Water Act and Ground Water Pollution) to limit the amount of contaminated water that is allowed to be discharged into storm water systems (i.e. street vehicle washing)

Always dispose of all non-biodegradable materials from your vehicle cleaning in a responsible manner. Waste run-off must be disposed of in accordance with federal, state and local environmental control regulations.

Disposal of Aqueous Solutions

One should never assume that aqueous solutions can be disposed of down the drain. Your local water treatment authority or publicly owned treatment works will have information on treatment and disposal of these cleaners. Adjustment of pH and dilution are usually required before disposal to a drain. Always comply with current water usage and disposal regulations / water usage restrictions.

A car care product may be biodegradable and environmentally safe but just remember the dirt, oil and road grease you are cleaning with it are not, once rinsed off the vehicle paint surface the resultant solution is no longer biodegradable and environmentally safe

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Protection from Potential Health Hazards
1. Warning: Always use ground fault protection interruption (GFPI) when using any electrical device around water
2. Eye Protection: I would strongly advise the wearing of safety glasses or visor when operating any machine polisher.
3. Ear Protection; the constant pitch of a polishing machine could affect your hearing so wearing ear plugs would be wise to protect you from hearing loss.
4. Hand Protection; Gloves- with the verity of chemicals a detailer uses on a daily basis wearing chemical-resistant gloves resist penetration and permeation, and will provide protection against dermatitis and chemical burns. Gloves can provide protection, but they must be chosen with care, the proper selection matched to the hazard is critical. Chemical-resistant gloves resist penetration and permeation, and cam protect against dermatitis, chemical burns and corrosion.
5. Respiratory Protection (N95): Materials such as aluminium oxide (Aluminium oxide is on EPA's TRI list if it is a fibrous form) or silicon carbide (Nuisance particulate-Accumulation in lungs) used in polishes and compounds, and powdered fillers (Crystalline silica poses a serious inhalation hazard because it can cause silicosis) and Isocyanate clear coat residue represent a hazard to your lungs and may cause respiratory distress. Use a NIOSH-approved half face respirator equipped with a combination filter cartridge should be worn while using them
6. Consult the current 3M Respiratory Selection Guide for additional information or call 1-800-243-4630 for 3M technical assistance.
7. Material Safety Data Sheets: Use a ring binder or other filing system to ensure the appropriate MSDS is always available to identify hazardous substances
8. Work Hygienic Practices: Rinse cloves under running water before removing them
9. Protect yourself, work safe. As in all things, allow common sense to prevail and proceed with due caution

GFCI and Extension Cord

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter and Extension cord selection is based on two main principles. First, the cable should be able to carry the current load imposed on it without overheating. It should be able to do this in the most extreme conditions of temperature it will encounter during its working life.

Second, it should offer sufficiently sound earthing to (a) limit the voltage to which people are exposed to a safe level and (b) allow the fault current to trip the fuse or MCB in a short time. To meet these requirements requires consideration of the circuit load current (AMPS) a reasonable voltage drop, cable thickness (G) and length (feet) and the over-current protection device

Prime Wire & Cable Duplex GFCI -residual current device is also known as a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) junction Box with 6-Ft. cord, Model# GF200806 Portable GFCI duplex receptacle detects power leaks and shuts off electricity in less than a second to prevent shock. Test and reset buttons Tough jobsite box with 6-ft. 12/3 SJTW power cord UL listed, meets OSHA standards.

Prime Wire & Cable 50-Ft extension 12/3 Neon Power Cord — Blue, Model# NS514830 Bright NEON extension cord stands out for easy identification. 12 Gauge, SJTW, 3 prong cord features super-flexible vinyl jacket with a cold temperature rating of -31°F. LIGHTED connector indicates when power is on. Cord is water and flame resistant and rated at 15 amps, 125V, 1875 watts, UL listed and meets OSHA standards – Northern Tool

Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator - Stealth 316 - Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator

Information resource

1. Wikipedia® Encyclopaedia
2. Automotive Detailing Inside & Out; a Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist", by Jon Miller
3. TOGWT™ Series of Detailing Articles, by Jon Miller

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{EDIT -Updated july 2010}



As always, any thoughts and / or constructive comments are more than welcome
If this information was useful to you; please press the THANKS button

 

This maybe wrong of me to ask but could you recomend to me a product with A wheel cleaner formulated with Oxalic acid. im always looking to make my shop as safe as can be.

 

Nice write up togwt. Very informative. This should be a sticky somewhere. Excellent post.

Heath

 

I want the book to be available NOW!!!

 

I agree, very informative :applause: oh and it's now a sticky :thumb:

 

Thanks togwt! Thanks Nica for making it a sticky!

 

P21S gel wheel cleaner is the best! I really wanna try their RED wheel cleaner, but hate to order it from Europe, with shipping it will cost ~$200 for 5 liters...

 

I was chatting with Rich from Polished and yes P21S red version sounds very interesting but the Menzerna 7.5 Gel forumula is supposed to be a tad better then the P21S products I've got a bottle of the Menzerna version coming I'm really curious to see how well it will perform but yea the red version or UK verion of P21S sounds very interesting.

 

I'd love to try it, Nica, hopefully it will be available soon. Again, with dollar to Euro exchange ($1.50 for 1 Euro), I'm not buying it from Europe, as it will be way too much (I'd rather get Swissvax Concorso for the same price). I'm sticking with P21S gel (green).

 

Edit the 'Notes' (b) for clarification

Notes –
Warning
Before using any chemicals or solvents, carefully read all of the cautions and medical information on the products container and / or MSDS. Always follow all of the manufacturer’s recommendations. Ensure that you wear eye protection and acid-proof gloves; this is mandatory. No matter how safe an acidic product is advertised, never run the risk of it splashing in your eye or permeating your skin.

Use a product that has a low acid concentration level (i.e. Sulfuric, Phosphoric and Nitric acid. 10%, or less) with as high a pH level (> 2.0) as you can find, this constitute a less aggressive product. Oxalic acid is relatively safer and yet still very effective to use on most wheels. A wheel cleaner containing Oxalic acid is far safer yet still very effective to use on most wheels. It will do a far better job than high alkaline cleaners, yet is nowhere near as harmful to the vehicle or yourself

a) Acid is highly corrosive; the skull and crossbones warning on an acid label is there for a reason; acids will etch or erode anything in its path, they are also very effective in dissolving metals and etching glass.

b) Even a pH 5.0 acid with a dilution rate of 4:1 (as recommended by Meguiar's for their Wheel Brightener (Ammonium hydrogen fluoride [NH4] [HF2]) results in a pH 4.5 solution. The dilution of an acid doesn't make it safer as the addition of a molecule of water to a chemical compound, without forming any other products is known as hydration (i.e. dilution causes the pH to decrease) But since pH is not a very good indicator of the strength of the acid in every system, this approach won't always produce the desired results.

c) A wheel cleaner formulated with Oxalic acid is a safer yet still very effective cleaning chemical. It will do a better job than alkaline cleaners, but is nowhere near as harmful to the vehicle or yourself. Oxalic acid is a relatively strong "weak acid" Oxalic acid exhibits many of the reactions characteristic of other carboxylic acids, its a relatively strong organic acid, being about 10,000 times stronger than acetic acid (Vinegar pH 2).
This acid still needs to be handled with care and diluted correctly, but it’s safer than Hydrofluoric acid yet a very effective alternative.

d) Do not confuse hydrochloric acid (HCL) with hydrofluoric (HF, has a pH of 3.14) acid because of the similarity of names. On the skin, hydrochloric acid burns from the outside in. Hydrofluoric acid solution readily penetrates the skin and burns both skin and deeper tissues. If enough acid is absorbed, it may lethally affect the heart and nervous system.

e) Ammonium hydrogen fluoride NH4HF2 (or Ammonium bifluoride SiO2) is miss-classified as the safe alternative to hydrogen fluoride, once mixed with water it becomes hydrogen fluoride one of the most common, and dangerous, acid wheel cleaners used in automatic car washes today. Its effectiveness removing brake dust and difficult contaminants from wheels is undisputed, but most chemists say Ammonium bifluoride presents an unjustifiable and potentially lethal risk.

f) Always check the products MSDS and its pH value before you use it. It is always preferable that you use a 100% acid-free product with a pH of 7.5 – 8.0

 

Car Brite:
1. Mag-Aluminum is a clear, heavy-duty Oxalic acid-based cleaner and brightener formulated for use on chrome-plated, magnesium, or aluminum wheels.
2. Alloy Bright is an Oxalic acidic cleaner specifically formulated to clean aluminum alloy wheels, components and fabrications. Alloy Bright will effectively remove dirt, atmospheric tarnish and oxidation. Car Brite -http://www.carbrite.com UK - UK Valet Supplies - Professional car valet supplies - Car Brite - Farecla - Zymo

 

Interesting. I use Simple Green as well, but ONLY on my own vehicles. I have not had any issues so far, but would probably not risk using them on customer's vehicles. I have CG Premium Blue for that, or P21 Wheel Gel.

 

I use simple green as well, also their automotive simple green in the black bottle works great for wheel wells and suspension.

 

SA Detailer, what brush is that you're using on the wheels?

 

I agree! I'm a self admitted Simple Green junky! Can't use enough of the stuff. I dilute it 1 part simple green 3 parts water. I spray, let sit for about 2 or 3 minutes, agitate it with a stiff plastic brush -which also allows me to clean the inner portion of the wheel and then I just rinse. It works very well in wheel wells & for the wheels themselves. (Tires dressed with CG Natural Look Trim Gel)

 

I used to recommend this product until Simple Green got some bad press from the USAF/Navair due to problems they were having with this products negative reaction with Aluminium. I removed it from copy and should have reinstated it after the new product but it slipped through the cracks (corrected now though)

Simple Green offered an alternative product - Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner - Meets Boeing Specs –D6 – 1748-7P
(Water- based, no petroleum solvents) - Extreme Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner - More Info

 

I am obsessed with my wheels! Please tell us what is that wheel brush:shrug:

 

:'( Simple green does damage Aluminum....just ask my engine bay. I used to love the stuff, now I use the Meguair's mag wheel clearer. I am really interested in trying the Sonax stuff.

 

This list may help (perhaps SA Detailer will add to it-

Wheel Detailing Brush:
This non-scratch, very flexible, E-Z Detail Brush is 18 inches long, 4-1/2 inches in diameter and is super-soft with Nylex bristles, a material that combines the softness of a natural bristle with the strength of nylon. There's a vinyl tip bonded to the top of the brush and a knuckle guard on the handle but the most impressive feature of this brush is the flexible, inner core. This vinyl-coated wire core will bend in every imaginable direction which allows the brush to get into areas where few other brushes can reach. Proper Auto Care- E-Z Detail Brush

Alternative product-

a) Lambs wool wheel cleaning brushes - called Wheel Woolies; these brushes drastically cut the amount of time it takes to clean almost any kind of wheel. Each brush is 12- inches long with a chemical resistant handle and a bonded wool head. Proper Auto Care - Classic Motoring Accessories - Car Buffers, Car Waxes, Car Polishes, Auto Detailing Supplies, Car Covers, Car Accessories.

b) Spoke & Slot Brush - Simple, safe, and effective, ultra-soft bristles squeeze into wheel crevices.
Top of the line - Spoke & Slot Brush

c) Lambs Wool Spoke Brush - it replaces those awkward spoke brushes that never seem to be the right size and lack soft bristles on the tip. This tapered ultra soft tool is completely covered with 100% lambs wool and is small enough to squeeze between spokes, slots and around bolts 6 1/2" long, 1/2" to 2" in diameter - http://www.topoftheline.com/wool-wheel-brush.html

d) Microfiber Cleaning Wand - the special microfiber thick nap cleans tight spaces in; (0.5"x1.5"x12") wheels use dry or moisten with water for extra cleaning power - no chemical cleaners are needed Machine washable, air dry, no fabric softener. Refills are available – Casabella - http://www.casabella.com/Merchant2/m...gory_code=4300

 

A couple years ago,there was a guy on my Duramax forum that sprayed Simple Green on his NEW motor and let it sit for a while (I dont member how long) but when he tried to wash it off that new motor looked as if he had 200k on it. Just pitted the crap out of all the aluminum parts.....not pretty.


I tried looking for the pics but cant seem to find them