Using a random orbital (KBM) methodology

Using a random orbital (KBM) methodology

Mequiar’s Super Micro Abrasive Technology (SMAT) - that is used in these polishes (M105 Ultra Cut Compound 1200< grit CAS 10/10 and M205 Ultra Finishing Polish CAS4/10) utilizes non-diminishing abrasives, their cutting ability comes from the hardness and shape of the abrasive particles. Using these compounds with a random orbital polisher requires a very different technique, pressure, pad size and selection, pad priming (with the compound) etc.

Unlike traditional polishes that require a long working time to break down the abrasive particles, the SMAT abrasives in M105 utilizes ultra-hard non-diminishing abrasives that retain their size and shape throughout the polishing cycle. These abrasives are designed to cut hard and fast, and the fact that they maintain a consistent cut from start to finish means that the process goes much more quickly than traditional polishes or compounds. The end result is a heavier cut, with less working time.

The important points

• Proper priming of the pad (with the product being used)
• Consistent pressure
• Clean or change pads often

[A word of caution - on fresh paint (or paint containing flex agent), there is enough applied force with this method that the paint could 'twist’. Paint twisting occurs when the heat and friction created by the machine, pad, buffing liquid, and applied pressure combine to alter the bond between the paint, primer, or substrate it is attached to] - Kevin Brown

1. The product used is a non-diminishing, heavy cut compound, applied with a 6 – inch LC CCS Orange Light Cutting or Yellow Cutting flat foam pads with a semi-rigid Velcro® backing plate (to ensure maximum abrasive used over minimum area) and ensure that pad is clean by removing oxidised paint and / or polish debris regularly or replace pad with a fresh one
2. M105 has a very fast working time (10-15 seconds)
3. Like all linear abrasive compounds or polishes, they require a correctly primed pad, to ensure sufficient product, the use of consistently applied pressure to ensure abrasive contact with the paint surface, this ensures consistent surface contact. Linear abrasives require that you work the product until you achieve the desired finish (taking care not to allow the oils / lubricant to dry out).
4. Prime the pad by semi-saturating (80%) the foam and then allow the liquid time to permeate the pore structure of the foam, and then ensure to spread the liquid abrasive uniformly. Keeping the pad flat while applying a constant / consistent pressure; thus ensuring constant paint / polish contact, when the initial polish has been expended replace with 5-6 small sized dots. Keep the pad flat (like you would with a sanding block) while applying constant pressure, the oils in the polish provide the lubrication (like the water does in wet-sanding).Do not allow the pad to “load-up”
5. Re-wetting (Mequiar’s Final Touch) the abrasive residue will re-activate the product to give you more life out of it.
6. Pad grit number, amount of pressure applied and time will all affect the amount of abrasion achieved. If the initial process doesn’t provide the desired finish, increase the aggressiveness of the process; i.e. use a longer working time, increased pressure, increases the cut of the polishing pad.
7. A normal polishing process will remove approximately 0. 1 Mil (3µ (Microns)) A properly primed cutting pad will eliminate most surface scratches and M205 will polish (burnish) the finish
8. Alternative method – My preference for removing sanding marks or serious paint defects with M105 is in combination with a rotary buffer and a LC Purple foam / wool cutting pad
9. Alternative polish - 3M Perfect-It™ Rubbing Compound (6085)
10. M105 tends to leave scratches that are similar to scratches from finishing paper, i.e. uniform size and depth. Use M205 Ultra Finishing Polish to remove them; prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, then using a non-abrasive, soft foam (100 PPI) pad at 900-1000RPM and then increase to 1200-1500RPM and then with a minimum of pressure make few passes at 1000 / 900RPM.
11. [When I finish with M205 I usually use a 15-20 second pass, that's it. You cannot refine the finish by working the product longer as you can with a diminishing abrasive. In fact over working the polish will start to erode the quality of the finish that you are leaving, instead of enhancing it.] Todd Helme TH0001
Notes
1. Proper priming of the foam pad is of paramount importance
2. Clean and / or replace pads as often as is necessary; a clean seasoned pad will enhance the abrasive abilities of the compound / polish and make the process not only more efficient but less time consuming.
3. Use a brush to clean the pad after each time you polish a section, as it keeps the pad from accumulating too much polish on the paint surface but the pad remains saturated, avoiding the necessity of adding as much polish as the first panel or two.
4. Application of a consistent pressure across the face of the foam pad is very important
5. To achieve a swirl free finish, apply moderate pressure on initial passes, reducing pressure gradually with very light pressure on final passes.
6. during the polishing process, trace amounts of paint and / or oxidation is removed; this can cause the debris and the polish to “clump” together. This can cause a haze to the paint surface, a wipe-down or a paint cleaning product will eliminate this.
7.Using non-diminishing abrasives and wet-sanding are both linear abrasive processes, as you have a constant and consistent abrasive medium, the longer you work the polish / compound the more surface defects / clear coat is removed
8. Speeds used - M105 / Rotary Polisher / Wool Pad at 1200-1500 RPM, speed 5 on the PC 7424 and a speed of 5.0 on the Flex XC3401VRG Dual-Action Polisher

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wow you learn something new every day thnx for that

 

Great post. I also read somewhere that the pad must be kept a little wet with occasional spritzing with Megs final inspection, just to keep the polish workable instead of caked on the pad. Is this recommended?

 

the whole priming pad thing changed my results 100%
eShine Canada- Proper Buffing Pad Care

 

The KBM has worked wonders for me great write up as usual

 

just started using m105/205 and kbm and love it i got about 95% correction rate on my last two details (silver g35 black accord) using 105 on spots and 205 on whole car. both cars had that "glow" effect on the edges and rounded body panels.

i have been working the polishes way longer then that ...cant wait to play around tmrw and use the less time

 

If the pad is primed and then polish is added as necessary it should not be necessary.

If you feel its needed re-wetting (Mequiar’s Final Touch) the abrasive residue will re-activate the product and provde an extended work time. Do not use too much as it will cause the pad / polish to aquaplane; negating the abrasives ability

 

(See also “KBM via Surbuf pad” - gmblack3a - Autopia.org - View Single Post - Surbuf Pad paired with M105 and PC is a defect killer!)