Using a Cyclo Rotary Polisher Recommended Products In the interest of full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated with, employed by, have any vested interest, or in any way receive compensation from the sale or distribution of the product lines reviewed or the company that manufactures or markets it. Results Obtained These articles are not intended to warrant or guarantee any results with any of the products mentioned. No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products not mentioned. The author does not provide, nor guarantee and is not responsible or liable for any third-party products or services. Brand, product and company names used throughout these articles are trademarks of their respective companies and are used for product identification purposes only. Proper Technique A sound understanding of the proper technique and the correct process will produce excellent results even with a mediocre product. A quality product used without the proper surface preparation or application technique will never obtain a satisfactory result. Using the proper methodology (surface preparation, using a quality product, along with the correct application technique) will ensure an excellent result. Skill Level / Experience Some methods described may be beyond the capabilities of the average detailer or enthusiast; in this case we strongly encourage the reader to consult a professional detailer or body shop concerning the matters discussed herein. Liability The writer assumes no responsibility, expressed or implied, due to misuse or misinterpretation of the information or methods used, or for any vehicle damage or injury that may occur due to the suggestions and information offered. Product Quality and Technique Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used. There is no `one correct way' to apply a product; the way detailing products are customized are what each individual finds give them their desired results. Aesthetics The aesthetics- of a vehicles appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. In the final analysis it all come down to; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application methodology and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder Research Research others opinions and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not marketing hype or brand loyalty. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? Detailing products Should work on their real merits, not ‘smoke and mirrors'. Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon, so I would strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you. Cyclo Rotary Polisher Cyclo U.S.A commenced operations in 1953 manufacturing their unique twin head orbital action polisher designed specifically for the aircraft and aerospace industries. In a short space of time the Cyclo polisher established itself as the standard aircraft polishing system throughout the world and is now used by virtually every airline and aircraft manufacturer, affectionately named as an "idiot proof' tool for polishing. The remarkable "Wonder Tool" is hand made in America. Some of the Cyclo employees have been with the company as long as 50 years, the polisher has been known to perform for a decade; it is common to see 30-50 year old machines returned for a replacement part, or general refurbishing. In the mid 1970's the Cyclo machine was discovered by the automotive industry, and was such an instant success in resolving the paint problems of the auto motive industry that it is now the approved machine for all Ford, General Motors, Toyota, Lexus, Hyundai and Nissan dealer outlets in the U.S.A. The Cyclo is not only a polisher, but also a buffer and is excellent for shampooing carpets. It is an excellent tool for the novice and pro alike. The overlapping, circular motion of its dual rotating heads produces hand polished results without all the elbow grease. Guaranteed not to mar, burn or swirl any painted, polished metal or clear coat finish. The dual orbital action heads produce an overlapping motion that simulates gentle hand-rubbed quality and eliminate the danger of heat build-up or swirl marks, with exceptional stability and smooth operation. The machine responds to pressure applied and polishes painted or unpainted surfaces with maximum safety and efficiency. It has two heads, spinning in opposite directions, so the machine remains balanced. The opposing heads create an overlapping polishing pattern. Each head is direct drive; the heads spin at 1,800 RPM per head (3,600 RPM combined), which makes the machine pretty safe. Along with its fractional (1/3) horsepower motor the gearbox generates a lot of torque, so even though you don't have the speed of a rotary, you can apply pressure to get more work out of a machine polish Lightweight and excellent balance enables the operator to work around complex curves, large areas and contours. Changeable bonnets or Velcro discs, pads and brushes. It's ideal for safety removing scratches and polishing large areas, its 4-inch heads also enable the user to work around curves and smaller areas. Regular maintenance- you should clean the brushes, blowing out the vent holes every couple days. Once in a while remove the brushes and inspect for wear, replace if necessary. Other than keeping the machine clean and dust -free when it not in use very little maintenance is required Detailing Tips 1.You can apply polish with one head while removing it and buffing it out with the other. Apply your favorite polish or swirl remover to a green pad on one Cyclo head, and leave the white pad on the other head completely dry. 2.Angle the machine so that the white pad follows the green pad as you work across the surface. This remarkable technique will produce a perfect polishing pattern without a "missed spot" and cut clean-up time in half. 3.Apply your favourite liquid wax or sealant with one head and remove it with the other. Place the wax on a white pad on one Cyclo head, and cover the other pad with a terry or Micro Suede bonnet. Angle the polisher so the bonnet follows the white pad across the surface. Pad Holders Velcro loop backed pad holders, these rubber "boots" fit over the two hard pads attached to the polisher. The Velcro on the top of these holders allows you to quickly and easily install and remove the pads White Foam Finishing Pads White Foam Glazing Pads are for final polishing used to apply glazes and waxes, they have Velcro backing Green Foam Polishing Pads The green foam oxidation pads are for removing light scratches and oxidation. Use these with cleaner type waxes and light duty rubbing compounds. They are sold in pairs and have Velcro backing. Yellow Foam Cutting Pads The yellow foam oxidation pads are for removing medium to heavy scratches and oxidation. Use these pads with heaver rubbing compounds and cutting polishes, they have Velcro backing. Fast Cut Deoxidising Pads The fast cut (600 grit) Deoxidising Pads are for removal of deep scratches and heavy oxidation. Terry Cloth Bonnets These Terry Cloth Bonnets fit over foam pads and can be used to shampoo headliners and for cleaning leather Lambs Wool Buffing Pads Levelling Pad (Wool) are made from ¾-inch 100% natural lambs wool, used to level a paint film surface with an abrasive machine polish (compound) or to apply a polish to large areas (diamond plate, Aluminium trailers, etc.) and have Velcro backing for ease of removal. Before you use new pads always wash them, by soaking them in hot (Woolite®) then rinse them, place them on your Cyclo, spin dry and then inspect for any Velcro fibre's that may have come into contact with the foam. Bonnets (Microfiber, Terry Towelling or Wool) should always be used over foam pads and never as `stand alone' pads. For safety reasons, Cyclo recommends that the machine not be operated unless the pad or bonnet is flat on the work surface. This means both starting and stopping the machine while it is flat on the vehicle's surface The foam pad is attached to the machine with a Velcro backing plate; product is then applied to the foam pad. Clean foam pads soon after use, if left saturated for extended periods of time the foam will deteriorate, extend the useful life of the foam pads by periodic cleaning / washing Foam Pad Application: Here's a brief guide to help you select the correct product for your needs, all of these pads are Velcro backed so they can be removed or attached very easily. The rubber "boots" fit over the two hard pads attached to the polisher. The Velcro on the top of these holders allows you to quickly and easily install and remove the pads listed below. Cutting Pad (Yellow) - a firm, high-density foam with a medium abrasive cutting action, for use with Machine Polish, Swirl Mark Remover, Autoglym Cutting Polish Polish / Waxing Pad (Green)-a softer less dense foam composition with a light abrasive cutting action, For use with a Swirl Mark Remover, Pre-Wax Paint Cleaner, Klasse All-In-One, or Autoglym Super Resin Polish Finishing Pad (White)-an ultra-smooth foam that has no abrasive cutting ability, for use with Klasse High Sealant Gloss, Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, Zanio Z-2 or Z-5, or a Glaze Levelling Pad (Wool): Are made from ¾-inch 100% natural lambs wool (do not use synthetic wool) are usually used to level a paint film surface with an abrasive machine polish (compound) or to apply a polish to large areas Wool pads used wet or dry have less cutting ability than foam but produce the most paint surface `compounding’ haze Abrasive Finishing Paper (Sandpaper): When talking about abrasive paper "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of paper. The lower the grit the rougher the paper and conversely, the higher the grit number the smoother the paper. This makes sense if you imagine how small the particles on a 1000-grit paper would need to be to fit into a 1" square. Grit paper is referred to by the size of its abrasives (i.e. 1500-grit paper) the grit you use depends on what you are trying to do. Grit Sizes: Grit number often refers to surface scratches or the abrading abilities of both foam and polishes. 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 are the sizes most often used in detailing, 2500 and 3000 are used mostly for Feather Sanding) Unigrit® Finishing Paper is used for the repair of severe surface and subsurface defects, it eliminates the risk of deep sanding scratches by providing a uniform grit size Scratch / Grit Abrasive Comparison: Surface Grit Abrasives Polish Pad Selection Imperfection Equivalent Type Use / Colour Very Fine Scratch 2000 Grit Abrasive< Fine Polish Polish / Waxing Pad Fine Scratches Green Light Oxidation >2000 Grit Abrasisive Polish / Light Yellow Medium Scratches Medium Oxidation Water Spots- 1500 Grit Abrasive Machine Polish Polish / Light Cutting Yellow Deep Scratches Heavy Oxidation Orange Peel Acid Rain Etching 1200 Grit Abrasive /Compound Fast Cut Deoxidising Pad Levelling Wool Buffing bonnets: Buffing bonnets can be used after polishing to remove light polish residues. Then use a Microfiber Buffing Bonnet over a dense foam pad to produce a high gloss finish. This doesn't load-up the bonnet with residue, as fast and the bonnet will need to be washed less often. These bonnets are a quick and effortless way to remove single-step products like Klasse Al1-In-One and Autoglym Super Resin Polish. They also have just the right texture to apply a super thin layer of polymer sealants like, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection or Zanio which require a very light coating for easy removal and best gloss. A word of caution when using Microfiber bonnets to remove wax/sealant, check the bonnet face for residue build-up, when loaded with dried product they have an abrasive action that could be detrimental to the paint finish. Maintenance- roughen up the Microfiber with your fingers after the completion of each section / panel. Check the bonnet’s face surface often, clean with a horsehair brush or change as necessary. Foam Pad Maintenance: •Don’t use the same pad for different products, dedicate a pad for wax, one for polish, one for machine polish, and etc unless they are washed first •When working in close proximity to hood ornaments, metal trim etc avoid forcing the pad against them as it may cause the foam to tear. •Pads must be kept free of dried-on product residue to ensure their flexibility and to ensure that they can maintain complete contact with uneven surfaces. •Clean residue from pads often with a soft horse hair brush, nylon or metal may damage the foam •Wash pads after use and air dry them •Don’t store pads in an airtight container as this causes mould •Store pads where they can expand unrestricted •Don’t stack pads where other objects could deform or crease them. Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations: Always start with the least abrasive combination, i.e. a machine polish #2 and the least aggressive (polishing) foam pad. If that combination doesn't remove the imperfections, using the same machine polish #2 and change to more aggressive (cutting) foam pad. If the surface imperfections remain, then step-up the abrasive to a polish #3 and use the least aggressive (polishing) pad. Proceed as necessary by using the same level polish and going down to a less aggressive foam pad. It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination. The abrading ability of these combinations can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and/or pressure used, using wet or dry and/or type of foam (different foam compositions have a differing abrading ability) The work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and/or speed of rotation or oscillation. Machine Polish: Are formulated with lubricates, solvents and water, and an abrasive 0.3 micron mineral, that diminishes with use, buffered or cushioned in a rich, lubricating oil film, usually in a semi-liquid paste. They are available in many different grades (the ability to abrade i.e. to remove levels of paint) for detailing work they usually range from a 2000< grit polish (very mild) to a swirl mark remover (a medium abrasive) 1500 grit or a compound (various levels of abrasive) 1000 – 800 grit When using a machine polish that contains diminishing abrasives, once the abrasives reach a certain size they will no longer abrade (cut) the surface, if on further inspection the surface still has some defects, you will need to apply fresh polish. It is normal to polish a surface (unless the defects are minor) and to renew the polish to abrade the surface three or more times. Once the diminishing abrasives have reduced in size they become less aggressive and will then burnish the surface to a high gloss finish. The abrading ability of these compounds can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and/or pressure used, using wet or dry and/or type of foam (different foam compositions have a differing abrading ability) The work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and/or speed of rotation or oscillation. Always finish with the next lower level of abrasive i.e. after using machine polish #1(medium) a 1200 grit polish, continue with a machine polish # 2 (mild) a more than 1500 grit polish, and then a machine polish # 3 (fine) a 2000 grit polish, whatever grade you start with always finish with a the least abrasive polish, machine polish # 3 (fine) a less than 2000 grit polish, or a very fine, 2500 grit or less polish. The use of abrasive type polish / cleaners should always be restricted to specific problems. Most original paint finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the layers underneath. The outer layers should be preserved as far as possible Iz Einzett polishes can be applied by hand, or machine polisher. With the Ultra Paint Polish you will obtain the best results with a high-speed rotary polisher, as heat is required to soften the paint Ultra Paint Polish Is a medium cut compound used for paint renovation and the removal of heavy surface imperfections, swirl marks and surface etching and abrasions? Paint Polish Is a general purpose polish and paint surface cleaner for the removal of dirt and grime from the paint pores, and medium to light surface abrasions. Metallic Polish Is ideal as a swirl mark remover for the removal of minor surface abrasions, light spider webbing, swirl marks, and etc Einzett polishes can be applied by hand, or machine polisher. Machine Polish Application: To polish the paint film surface with a rotary polisher requires two rubber boots (backing plates) plate, two Velcro-backed foam pad, and a machine polish. The abrading ability of these compounds can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and/or pressure used, using wet or dry and/or type of foam (different foam compositions have a differing abrading ability) The work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and/or speed of rotation or oscillation. Comparative Abrasive Scale- The abrasion or cutting ability of a polish on a 1-10 scale (least abrasive to most) Manufacturer Scale 1-10 Iz einzett Ultra Paint Polish 8/10 Paint Polish 5/10 Metallic Polish 3/10 Mezerna Power Gloss 8/10 Intensive Polish 6/10 Final Polish II 3/10 3M Perfect It Extra Cut Rubbing Compound III (05936) 8/10 Micro Finishing Compound II (39001) 7/10 Fine Cut II (39002) 6/10 Machine Polish II (39003) 5/10 Machine Glaze III (05937) 4/10 Swirl Mark Remover II (39009) 3/10 Imperial Machine Glaze (00591) 2/10 Meguiar’s Power Cleaner, Heavy cut (#84) 8/10 Mirror Glaze, Medium cut (#01) 7/10 Duel Action Cleaner Polish (#83) 6/10 Speed Glaze (#80) 4/10 Swirl Remover (#09) 3/10 Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner (#30) 2/10 Groit’s Machine Polish 1 (11163) 5/10 Machine Polish 2 (11162) 4/10 Machine Polish 3 (11161) 3/10 Fine Hand Polish (11165) 2/10 Use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to a more abrasive product. Always finish with the next lower level of abrasive i.e. after using machine polish #1(medium) a 1200 grit polish, continue with a machine polish # 2 (mild) a more than 1500 grit polish, and then a machine polish # 3 (fine) a 2000 grit polish, whatever grade you start with always finish with a the least abrasive polish, machine polish # 3 (fine) a less than 2000 grit polish, or a very fine, 2500 grit or less polish. 1. The variables are; pressure applied, fours pad composition, whether foam is used wet or dry, and the abrasiveness (cutting ability) of the applied machine polish. 2. No single machine polish can do it all; it usually takes at least two or more to obtain the results required. 3. The only constant is; always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary, `step-up' to more abrasive products. Masking Tape: Mask-off around windows, badges, and door handles and any bodywork vinyl trim, using Scotch TM Safe-ReleaseTM Painters' Masking Tape This tape removes cleanly from a paint film or glass surface without adhesive transfer or surface damage for up to 14 days - even when exposed to direct sunlight. It is a medium adhesion tape with a flexible crepe backing allows for exceptional conformability to semi-smooth surfaces Most modern vehicle paint film systems comprise a Primer coat of 2Mils, a Colour coat of 1-2Mils, and Clear coat 2-3Mils. Removing more that 0.5 mil (0.0005") of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as a point of reference a sheet of copy paper is 3.5Mil (0.0035") A two-stage paint system has a clear coat as the final layer of the paint film surface. Careful polishing is required so damage does not compromise the clear coat protection. The clear coat provides protection from a hostile environment and an excellent brilliance, but is easily scratched; once it is compromised repairs involve Re-painting, as the base colour has no brilliance, shine or depth, start with the least abrasive product to accomplish desired results, and only if necessary move up to the next grade of abrasive. Depending on the types of surface abrasions you're dealing with, increase pressure as necessary. Just remember that more pressure equals more aggressive, so be careful around ridges and raised surfaces Maintain the same pressure and work the product in, it may take three or four passes to complete before the residue can be removed. Once you see the desired results move on to the next area, or repeat the process as necessary. The Naked Detailer (cheers Jamie) No I'm not suggesting you detail your vehicle without any clothes on (although what you do in the privacy of your own garage...) But just be aware that jewellery, watches, rings, clothing with metal buttons, rivets or exposed zippers, or belt buckles can very easily be rubbed against the vehicle surface causing scratches. Apply product to a clean dry surface that has been prepared with detailers clay and a pre-wax cleaner to ensure paint film surface to enhance both gloss and product durability, with a temperature of >50 – 90< 0 F, away from direct sunlight. •Evenly apply the product to the foam pad (not the paint surface) and then move the pad on the paint film surface to further distribute product. •Without lifting the machine from the paint film surface turn the machine on. •Draw an imaginary square two-foot by two foot (less on smaller panels) •Start on the upper left hand side of the imaginary square •Applying the product to the right, when you've reached the outer edge of the imaginary square, drop down and precede right to left, drop down and precede left to right, etc •On the imaginary square two-foot by two foot (less on smaller panels) •Start on the upper left hand side of the imaginary square •Applying the product to the top left, when you've reached the bottom edge of the imaginary square, go across and precede bottom to top, go across to the left and precede top to bottom •Apply Machine Polish at the rate of approximately 1.0-inch per 2-3 seconds •When the `cross-hatched square' is completed then move to another area and proceed, overlapping the preceding square to ensure complete coverage. • Turn off the machine while it's still in contact with the paint film surface, if you worked in the product there should be little or no residue. •Remove any remaining residue with 100% cotton Alpine DF Microfiber towel and water. •You should adopt a similar methodology with any areas that is inaccessible to the Cyclo by applying product by hand with 100% cotton Alpine DF Microfiber towel. Application Stages: Keep repeating these passes using progressive pressure (initial speed #4) You want to keep working the product into the panel until it `hazes' to an almost dry state. Depending on the types of surface abrasions you're dealing with, increase speed and pressure as necessary. Just remember that more speed plus more pressure equals more aggressive cutting, so be careful around ridges and raised surfaces Maintain the same pressure while working the product, it may take three or four passes to complete before the residue can be removed. Remove residue with clean distilled water, once you see the desired results move on to the next area, or repeat the process as necessary. Notes: 1. By using a slower application rate (1.0-inch per 2-3 seconds) enables the product to be worked efficiently into to the surface. 2 .Prime the foam pad with clean distilled water or a QD spray as this helps the product to spread more easily. 3 .While using the Cyclo, drape the cord over your shoulder to avoid it being dragged across the vehicle and marring the paint film surface 4. Always start or stop the Cyclo while it is in contact with the surface, this will avoid the foam pad becoming dislodged 5. Use a masking tape (3Mmt Blue Masking Tape, 14 day safe release) to cover badges; door handles and vehicle trim to avoid staining with compound etc. This tape is made with adhesives that are easily removed without leaving any residue or marks from the tape. 6. Always start with the least abrasive product/pad combination and use a more abrasive set up for more serious surface imperfections, as opposed to adopting `one-size fits all'. 7. Polishing abrades the paint film surface, adopting a more abrasive set-up than necessary could potentially remove more of the film surface than is necessary. 8. If the pad is new or dry, dampen the pad surface by misting it with water. This will aid in compound/polish dispersion. 9. Flexathene® Thermoplastic Polyolefin's are manufactured from polycarbonates or polymer blends and are used for aerodynamic spoilers and wings. They are a very porous vinyl with a `flex-agent' to ensure its flexibility and prevent `spider web' cracking. 10. I would not recommend using a compound or a buffer/rotary polisher on these type surfaces, as it will cause them to smudge/smear due its porosity and the softness 11. As with all detailing tasks applied to a paint film surface, everything in a straight-line motion, avoid circular movements that could contribute to swirl marks. 12. There is no `one correct way `to apply a product, most Concourse detailers have their own preferred methodology. The way detailing products are customized are what each individual finds give them the desired results. 13. Wear soft clothing while detailing, with no exposed belt buckles, rivets or jewellery. 14. As with most detailing tasks, avoid strong sunlight, the sun may increase the paints surface temperature causing the product to dry prematurely and render it ineffective. 15. If you find a `troublesome' swirl area that is resisting removal use a fast back-and-forth motion with moderate pressure 16. Do not cover the top or side air vents with your hands as you cut of the machine's ventilation and this will cause overheating. Use the blower side of a vacuum to clear out the vents periodically. 17. Be careful around emblems door handles and such. Cyclo Rotary Polisher Specification: Model; Cyclo #5 Power: 5Amp, 110-120 Volts AC, 50-60 Hz Motor: 1/3rd HP, Single phase Non-Load speed: 1,800 RPM per head, (3,600 RPM combined) Weight: 6.5 lbs. (2.9 Kg) Information resource 1. Automotive Detailing Inside & Out; a Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist, by Jon Miller 2. TOGWT™ Series of Detailing Articles, by Jon Miller © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2009, all rights reserved Detailing Articles This is one of is one of a series of unbiased and informative, knowledge based, subject specific articles, which are dedicated to the automotive detailing enthusiast or professional detailer in search of development and further education Copyright Protection and intellectual property rights-© This work is registered with the UK Copyright Service that supports international copyright protection by securing independent evidence that will help prove originality and ownership in any future claims or disputes. All original material is copyright, unless otherwise state (1) it may be copied and distributed for non-commercial purposes only provided that you retain all copyright and other proprietary notices contained in the original material, (2) the information is copied in full with no changes unless prior written agreement is obtained from TOGWT, and a reference to © TOGWT ™ is included, any unauthorized use of these materials may violate copyrights and/or trademark. Be aware these files have been digitally watermarked and actually contain embedded copyright information; so they can be traced to any website on the internet if needed in a legal confrontation
