Mercedes C63 AMG coupe... Spring detail and correction

I will start off with the disclaimer that I'm not a pro detailer nor am I a pro photographer .

Spring is here and my C63 coupe needed a little TLC. I got the car in December and only applied a sealant to get me through winter (Menzerna Powerlock). I let the dealer wash it when it was in for service as I knew I would be doing a full Spring detail so I was prepared to accept a little marring and swirls. Having said that, the dealer actually does a fairly decent job at it as far as dealers go.

Process:

- Foamed and washed car with Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II
- Applied P21S total auto wash as needed to deal with real dirt/tar
- Clay barred the car
- Sprayed the car with Iron X and agitated
- Rewashed
- Polished with my Griot's random orbital (Menzerna Power Finish/Orange LC pad and a white pad)
- CarPro Eraser to clean up
- 2 coats of CQuartz

I may not use CQuartz again (Wolf's next time) as it is a pain in a$$ to remove. First coat was no issue but the second coat was a real issue. I love the result and it is very easy on but it is finicky and hit or miss for removal. Also, I initially was using CarPro Fixer Polish but found that it did not cut as well as the Menzerna. I was actually fairly disappointed with the Fixer Polish. It had a hard time removing light swirls with the orange pad. Menzerna had now issue removing the swirls and finishing down nicely. Menzerna has never let me down!! Sometimes you just need to stick to the tried and true...

Total time was about 14 hours including the interior.

A few before pictures... it wasn't in too bad of shape but definitely needed work








After shots...















My version of a NON professional photoshoot

 

Very nice ride you have there sir! Thank you for sharing with us.

 

looks like Ontario plates...thanks for sharing the nice ride with use. :headbang:

no front plates on either the C63 or the white toyota on the driveway? hehe

 

nice ride and great work ... looks amazing!

 

amazing car! nice job!

 

Thanks for the comments guys. I do love the car (481hp and 443 ft/lbs of torque are a blast) but keeping it pristine is a LOT of work

 

Sweet car and nice job!

 

Props to having an awesome car, the time to detail, and a son to enjoy your car with.

Nice work.

 

Big ups for actually using your decon fluid in the correct order(after clay) youre the first person in months I have seen do this besides myself.


The car came out great. Hella flaky paint.

 

Nice job. One of the only cars I am considering instead of a 911.

So there are three of us that do it this way then! LOL It just makes more sense.

 

Nicely done, the AMG engines produce a wonderful sound.

- I don't agree. I remove tar first, then apply Iron X, rinse with 0ppm water and then clay to remove whatever is left on the surface. I don't like pushing around iron filings on the paint with the clay bar. I try to get the paint as clean as possible before starting to put my hands on it. Less marring and less time spent IMO.

Kind regards,

Ebbe

 

I am no expert but my logic for claying first went something like this... claying would remove above surface iron filings and then, after claying, the IronX would remove anything missed by the clay. If I IronX'd first, I was concerned it may not get all of the iron out entirely and then claying would also not get what might be remaining (stuff that was below surface or too small for the clay bar to pick up). Put another way, I was more confident that IronX would get what the clay barred missed than I was that the clay would actually remove what IronX didn't if applied first. Clay to get rid of big stuff first and then let IronX take care of any small/subsurface stuff remaing.

I have no idea if this is correct but it seemed to make sense to me.

 

I really love that car. Great job. The sound that produces is great.

 

I notice minimal difference in marring, if any.


Do you de-tar before you wash? Nobody does.


Are you looking for actual complete sub surface removal? Or you looking to save time and give up some probably significant removal?


You need to follow a progression from most superficial to subsurface: Above surface non bonded, ASBC(above surface bonded), SS(subsurface). I only speak from an area of the US where recurrence of iron flecking is high because of incomplete or innappropriate removal..

 

WOW! That car is so so so gorgeous!! Those wheels Really set it off!

One of the prettiest and most classic designs ie seen on a coupe GT since the e46 M3 ZCP

 

- When I started using Iron Cut (which is Iron X now), I tried different techniques to get the best results. Of course, I always begin with a multi-stage wash.

First off, I tried Iron X then removed tar, but sometimes the tar would sit on top of the iron filings, which would then need a second application.

Then I tried removing the tar before dissolving the iron particles, which worked a lot better. I sprayed the car again with Iron X after claying, but no reaction. So, no difference in results. If there are stubborn/bigger filings, I spray a damp MF with Iron X dap the left-overs.

I have found that claying wont take very long time and it will be very effective, if the prep work/wash is done right.

I'm not attacking the way you work, but I just saying that there are more than one way of doing things. As long as we get to the desired results, I guess we will do fine.

Posted this some time ago, if you are interested:
http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/show-shine/18604-iron-filling-removal-iron-cut-vid.htm

- I wasn't even mentioning detarring before washing/degreasing the surface. I always begin with washing and degreasing the car to remove 'non/semi-bonded' contaminants. Then get rid of tar/what else a solvent-based tar remover will get rid off. Then Iron X. And finish off with claying.

I like your theory, but I've found no difference when comparing results of the applications of Iron X before and after claying.

On the marring issue, it would only be easily visible on well maintained surfaces. But a clay bar with less contaminants will in my experience also mean less marring from the claying stage.

And to 'actual complete sub surface removal', one will always need to do some kind polishing with a chemical cleaner/polish to ensure this, even though using Iron X would mean that iron particles should have been removed before getting to this step.


Kind regards,

Ebbe

 

great job!

 

I do see your point, but because I am typically polishing after claying, I'm more concerned with removing as much of the contamination as possible and using IronX after claying does that. Claying after Iron X means there is still some contamination left. At the end of the day, regardless of procedure, if you and your client are happy then it's all good.

 

As stated earlier, I like your theory, but I haven't seen/felt any difference in results by using it 'before vs. after' claying, other than claying would be more gentle and time-saving, if the iron decon step was done before.

I'm always aiming for the best, and I've no problem with spending the time on something worth it, but i've found no difference when it comes to this. And I would always do some kind of polishing after claying - not many waxes/sealants that would bond well with a surface that hasn't been.

And let's face it - even though Iron X will remove the iron deposits in the paint, theres still other leftovers that would need some polishing/deep-cleaning to be removed, if anything should bond well on the surface.


Kind regards,

Ebbe

 

After you IronX and then spot clay and remaining bits, do you hit those areas with IronX again or just leave them?