Meguiars Leather Cleaner/Conditioner

Hi Folks~

So far the only product I've used on my leather has been some cheap wipes (Simoniz, I think). I thought it would be good to get something better and have been impressed with most Meguiars stuff so far.
I took a quick look at the directions for this, however, and it seemed a bit daunting. Has anyone used this and can you give me a few tips to make sure I get good results and don't screw up?

 

Spray? If so, hate it. Its garbage, makes leather a bit shiny, very slippery and its doesn't last at ALL!

Try getting something better is my opinion. Meguiars I find good on paint and trim, but I'll choose something different for leather.

 

Yea their leather cleaner/conditioner is low quality, makes the seats shiny and seems to attract grime. I wouldn't recommend using it.

 

It's not a spray, it's some sort fo liquid yuo rub in and buff off, I guess? I'll have to try a small out of the way spot sometime...

 

Midlife...HERE is a thread that TOGWT did which is extremely detailed about cleaning and caring for leather. I use 303 Aerospace which is available locally for us at Venture Trailer on Provincial Rd, just south of Cabana. It gives good UV protection and is a water-based product. If you like it, you can find vendors who sell it by the gallon. (I've got a gallon at home).

 

I don't like the Meguiar's leather products much. They are fine but they make the leather look slippery and a bit shiny for my taste. Repeated applications (over time) only seem to make the leather more shiny so use it sparingly and make sure to buff any excess down thoroughly after it has absorbed into the leather.

 

To be honest OP, I would just throw away the Meguiar's Leather cleaner/conditioner, I remember one thread when a new guy came onto the forums and after repeated applications of the Meg's stuff, the leather was real shiny and he couldn't get it off.

 

Midlife...I thought you lived in my area...disregard the local purchase of the 303. Maybe someone has it close to you? As far as the Megs, Darkstar is correct. Sell it on Kijiji for cheap. You'll sell it no problem.

 

I think e-shine carries Iz

Wash urethane surfaces with soapy water and rinse with clean water and then thoroughly dry. Then use 1z Plastik Reiniger before the application of 1z Einszett Leather Care is formulated for the care and maintenance of finished (urethane coated) leather. Its gentle formula utilizes special cleaners and natural waxes to clean and condition the surface to prevent cracking and maintain surface lustre.

While a urethane coating requires less care than aniline leather, it still requires attention to keep it looking new; this product easily removes dirt, grease, and body oil from the urethane finish without leaving a greasy film. Quality ingredients protect the urethane finish from becoming brittle and restore its original softness. t won’t leave powdery residue around stitching or on perforated leather. Urethane upholstery will look clean, soft, and well-maintained.

 

First thing, lets determine whether your leather is coated or not. Then we can decide on a treatment for it. What kind and year is your car?

 

I would recommend Protectant 303 or 1z cockpick premium. They wont disappoint you

 

lexol cleaner and your done

 

Sonax Leather Cleaner. Ive used a lot of things.....Sonax is easy, smells great, and leaves my leather with a nice dark matte finish.

I highly recommend.

 

I've got a bunch of leather products and frankly, from my own experience and reading Judy's posts on Autopia - I'd say Lexol, 303, 1Z, Megs and most of the stuff sold is crap.

Coated leather just needs to be cleaned, and something like Leather Masters (water based) protector used. Most everything else just makes it attrack dirt and wears it out faster.

 

It's amazing how many people still think they are doing thier leather some good by adding all these products when it is simply a matter of keeping it clean and protected. This will prolong the life of the leather and its finish for far longer by cleaning & protecting than adding creams, conditioners, feeds, etc which only add to the dirt problem. They must spend a fortune on products that do little, nothing or actually hasten the damage process rather than spending a little more on products that actually work and are much more economical in the long run.

 

Judy, I asked this question on Autopia but never saw a response.

My question is why do people who have protected leather and apply these so called "just sit on top products" (like lanolin, waxes, etc) claim their leather feels more supple and softer after applying them? Are they disillusion.

Most tradtional protectants (like 303 and many others) do usually leave after application the surface more slippery. I have tried Leather Masters cleaner and protectant wipes.

 

I like to waste money.:headbang:

 

Thanks for all the heads-ups, folks.
911, my car is an '05 Chrysler Crossfire Limited. I was wondering the same things about type of leather.

 

I dislike asking a new arrival to 'use the search option', so this may help-

Leather Upholstery and Trim Surface Identification

The most important thing to find out before you attempt to clean or care for something is to ascertain what the material is made from. Much the same is true if you’re trying to remove a stain, what caused the stain and what is the material you are trying to remove the stain from. Formulate a detailing plan, then utilize proper detailing techniques, combined with quality products is what makes a details outcome successful.
It is important to be able to recognise the different materials used for vehicle upholstery as some OEM use different materials for the various surfaces (i.e. perforated leather for the seating areas, PVC bolsters and seat backs) Before choosing a product to clean or maintain interior surfaces you must be certain of the material used and wither it is Urethane covered or pigmented Aniline, as the correct care product requirements are vastly different.

Once you’ve correctly identified the leather and / or the applied finish applicable to your vehicle's upholstery, it’s easier to select suitable products / methods (one size fits all is just a vendor's marketing myth)

To identify the material used; (N-Nubuck / Alcantara®) (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated)

Leather however finished has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water- based cleaners and protectors will maintain hydration, which is essential to keeping it in pristine condition.

(a) Natural leather (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) Aniline Leather is coloured all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only top quality hides can be used. It is absorbent and has a random shade colours and grain pattern; lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).(See also King Ranch Leather)

(b) Protected leather (Pigmented) (P-Protected / Coated) - by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres' orientation). If this has little effect it’s protected.

The majority (95% + ) of automotive upholstery is by-cast polyurethane covered leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, by-cast will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing.

If water ‘beads’ on the surface, or if cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface, it’s (urethane) protected leather as liquids other than water (due to the size of its smaller molecules) will not penetrate this type of surface; it will also have an even shine. Remember you are dealing with the finished polyurethane coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself.

(c) Nubuck, Alcantara® (N-Nubuck / Alcantara® ) - are top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibres, producing a velvet-like surface. Alcantara® is a non-organic (synthetic) material. Both materials are very soft to the touch and will scratch or scuff very easily; water drops will darken the surface, but it returns to its original colour after drying.

(d) Nappa Leather (A-Aniline // Non-Coated ) – for leather used in autos, Nappa is a term that is used to denote a high quality leather, it’s a very soft, absorbent full grain (uncoated) and usually tanned with alum and chromium salts and dyed throughout, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).

(e) Vinyl - is a non-organic (synthetic) material that has an even, almost repeating pattern. The depth of the lines within the grain on vinyl is also consistent, while the same lines on leather will vary; it is also usually smooth and soft to the touch. water drops will remain (unchanged) on its surface

The common denominator for all the above surface finishes is that they all require specific products in accordance with the finish; not forgetting protection from ultra violet (UV) radiation

See also http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum...wt-detailing-article-series-db-hyperlinks.htm

 

Hey Bunky, I'd say that you could rub any oily, greasy, wonder goo into your leather seats and the action of applying and removing (there goes my Lexol flashback) would make the leather feel soft and better than before. I think we all need to understand that car interiors are made to last longer than your fine furniture and therefore it isn't going to get baby-butt soft, at least not for long.