^ i tried the SIP on my brothers 2001 volvo s40 and minor swirls were gone but it has some pretty bad scratches that wont go away, but none fail the nail test. does the the SSR3 cut more that the SIP???? Need to know quickly because im placing an order today. TIA
I haven't used SIP but SSR3 can be best described, although not my words, as "rocks in a bottle". Even though they fail the nail test they may have to be removed with wetsanding. Where are you located in NJ?
i was thinking about wet sanding but i didnt want to do anything drastic....im in totowa, how about u?
Yeah SSR3 feels like liquid sandpaper. I have probably 5 oz left if you want to trade something for it... Maybe some SIP?
i actually just took the plunge and bought it i mean its only like $15 lol but wut else do you have to trade? i wouldnt mind sending u some SIP for something intresting :thumb:
Geez, I don't know: FK425 ONR Optimum Power Clean DG111 Einszett Proline polishes Einszett Glanz Wax Optimum Instant Detailer Optimum Opti bond Surf City Beyond Black Tire Pro I also have a couple backing plates for rotary That I don't use. One is a meg's bp, the other is the yellow LC bp. Not sure if LC makes it actually, but it's the common yellow urethane one.
SSR3 and SIP are two different products altogether... SIP is a medium abrasive polish for general defect correction and the ability to finish down LSP ready. SSR3 is a heavy cut compound (and not a great one at that, Fast Cut Plus, #105, #95 etc all eclipse it) for severe defect removal. Be sure you really need to use it before using it, ie make sure you have got the most out of SIP - small work area of 1' square, as any bigger will reduce your correction capability and make sure the work time at 1500 - 1800rpm is around three or so minutes. Volvo paint, in my experience, generally responds very well to SIP and rarely needs aggressive compounding... If you are going down this route, be sure to check the thicknesses and carefully assess the removal rates. Sometimes, its better to leave a deep mark than risk striking through
3 mins? thats a lifetime. Ive never used it but am wondering if I am not working some of my stuff long enough? Opt Polish, 3M SMR etc Jason
Thats a typical work time for me, sometimes longer. You are looking to work the polish until there is literally no residue on the paint and the pad should coe up looking pretty much clean at the end of the set - anything there that is not clear residue is unworked polish and you need to work this to get the best possible finishes from the Menzerna polishes.