For me is that the surface is clean, no swirls (if possible) and try to get all the imperfections out of the paint. Then its LSP time!
I agree with Pirex..once you feel your correction are to your liking..then you apply your wax or sealant... now this depends on another senerio..one may want a sealant first then a wax...so the wax would in reality be the LSP.... Al
To me LSP ready means I removed paint imperfections while keeping in mind that there is a limited amout of CC you are working with.. Wipedown with IPA is always done prior post polish to inspection - If dusting occured a final wash is appropriate Inspection is done with brinkman and hologens and then finally pulled into the sun for full sun inspection
Great post Dan! I totally agree with what you are trying to understand. LSP ready to some just means it is ready to wax or seal. Whether it is trying to remove some swirls, but the finish is still hazy, or a glaze it used to fill before the LSP. To me, this is what LSP ready is. 1. Wash and clay and use a chemical solvent cleaner to release all the trapped dirt deep into the paint. 2. Remove all defects and oxidation using different compounds. 3. Remove all compounding swirls and give it a great bottom end base gloss. 4. Remove all ultrafine holograms and finnesse the paint to an all time high reflective gloss to the max. 5.Wipedown with solvent to make sure everything is 100% perfect to my liking under quad halogens and make sure the surface is 100% ready for bonding. To me, it's all about bringing the gloss to the maximum peak without LSP's. LSP is just the protection and the added bonus to highlight my superb work. Some people say their finish is LSP ready... I say come hang out with me for 15 hours, I'll give you a whole new outlook on what perfection is without my LSP. But that's just my opinion. There are different levels of LSP ready too... 1. Customer budget. 2. Time 3. Season 4. PC versus rotary 5. Newbie versus pro 6. Self claimed pro versus a machine polish master 7. Lighting 8. Experience 9. Trained eye 10. The list can go on and on.
ive been wondering if anyone on here only uses a rotary? i havent seen any pics of paul dalton using a pc? if so what prod., pad, tech., (system) also, does the makita rpm start at 0 and go up? I have a dewalt and its 1000-3000rpm i beleive?
DeWalt here to now...it is pretty solid. I hate the handle so now I just use it handle less, it feels better. I almost never do just rotary though. I think if someone is paying me good money to do a detail then I should be making sure that I do a good detail. I use a rotary first then do a light polish with my Rona machine and then it is LSP ready.
I only use a rotary. Makita 600-3000 Metabo 700-2200 Hitachi 0-600-3300 Has feather trigger that starts from 0 to selected speed
what kind of prod pad tech? and your achieving a perfect finish in direct sunlight? tell me more!... you dont find a need for pc?
