Choosing a Nano Sealant...

I am moving to an apartment soon, so the car will be in the elements all the time. I will have not have a place to hand wash the car. For this reason, I wanted an extreamly durable Nano Sealant. Something that will help keep the car protected for the long haul and also make it eaiser to clean. Most of my cleanings will have to be rinseless/waterless washes or car washes (no touch).

I already have C5 Wheel Armour on my wheels, and I love it.

Currently looking at:

• Gtechniq C1
• Gtechniq C2
• Wolf's Chemical's Hardbody

What would you suggest? I want something that will not break the bank, but I also want something that will work very well.

 

why not use optimum opti coat ? sounds like the perfect solution for your needs.

one syringe will do your car and more than likely your wheels also.

If you have any left over do a second coat .

 

Opti Coat is what we put on our clients cars who have limited wash capabilities. As the coating can only be removed through abrasion, its an excellent choice for people who may have to use touch less carwashes on a regular basis. One syringe of 20cc is enough to do three cars.

 

The most proven coating in the US right now is Opti Coat and with good reason.

In summary, OptiCoat/thread.

 

None of us on this thread work for Optimum or get any kind of kickback, etc., from Optimum for our responses.

I have also used Optimum Opti-Guard and Opti-Coat, and I will agree with the above gentlemen - It has the most durability, easy to apply, dries and cures quicker than the others, and leaves a nice, nice, gloss.
If you choose to totally prepare your paintwork (or have it prepared for you by a Professional Detailer), the result will be even more stunning.
Just be sure to have the surfaces totally devoid of any polishing oils, handprints, anything that will keep the coating from adhering the best to the surfaces.

Yes, there are a lot of products like this in the market place right now, but only this one has been on test cars for 5 years+ and is still there, with no visual, or other defects..

Good luck with your research !
Dan F

 

I agree that Opti-Coat is a very durable coating, but since you will be doing a lot of rinseless and waterless washes I would go with hard body for the scratch resistance.

 

I have not looked int eh opti-coat a lot. I will do some research on it as well. It seems like it will be a good choice givin the responses here. I am planning on doing a really good compound/polish on the car just before Winter and then applying it. Probally going to barrow a friend who has a sealed garage to do this coating. I have a garage but its not a concrete/sealed garage.

 

ive been playing with wolfs hard body, I have it on some wheels right now and I have washed them 3 times since applying, I have used APC, Auto Glym and CG wheel cleaner and even hit one wheel with some megs wheel brightner, it is still there and beading and shedding water like crazy so obviously it is super durable. Just waiting for time to polish out the car and get it on the paintwork, this is honestly the first time in maybe a year or so that a product has exceeded my expectations

 

The more I look at opti-coat the more I like it. If I went this route, would this be a good plan:

1. Wash w/ Dawn
2. Clay
3. IPA 70%
4. M105/Orange Uber
5. IPA 70%
6. M205/Green Uber two passes
7. IPA 70%
8. PO85RD/Blue Uber
9. Wash w/ Dawn
10. IPA 70%
11. Optimum Power Clean wipe down
12. Opti-Coat

Questions I have:

• What type of MF should I use for buffing the coating? Would it be best to use a brand new MF?
• What is the process for removing the coating after it cures? Do you buff it down like any other LSP?
• Will ONR washes be ok for this coating?
• Are there any maintince steps I can do to refreash the coating?

 

I've used Opti-Coat and it works well and has great durability, however, another option would be Wolf's Chemicals Body Wrap. While not as "impressive" as the Hard Body, it does work well. I find it easier to work with than Opti-Coat as well.

 

Your plan 1-12 looks great.

Does your paintwork require Meguiars 105? Does it have that much defect in it that you need such an aggressive compound ?

Assume you are using a Random Orbital, right ?

If you could get away with using the Meguiars 205, getting the finish really nice, and then possibly improving it with Menzerna PO85rd, that would also be a great plan too.

Do you have a Mustang ? What color and year ? Condition of paint today ?

The wipedown cleanings are very important so that you get maximum adhesion and clarity. I have not used IPA solutions in years personally. I have found for my needs, that Menzerna Top Inspection or Cquartz's Eraser Intensive Oil and Polish Cleaner work better and are easier to use in my shop. They are both of course, more expensive than that bottle of ISP at Target., but I just dont like how ISP solutions work on paint. But that's just me. Others I am sure have had great success with solutions of ISP and distilled water, etc..

Not sure I get what you mean about "buffing the coating" - is this while you are applying it to knock off any potential high spots? If so, a good, clean microfiber towel will work great there, and that is how I do it. Just be sure to get those microfibers in a bucket of your soap for them soon so the product doesnt dry and cure in the fibers..

Now, if you are referring to wipedowns after application, dry,and cure, like after you washed it, I am sure a nice clean microfiber would work well there too.
I personally use a Master Blaster to air dry as much as possible before wiping anything down, and always use a Detailing Spray to help keep scratches down to minimum to none..

Im thinking if I ever have to polish/jewel, etc., the finished coating I would try the Optimum Microfiber polishing pads with their polish, just to see what happens. Believe I read that they recommend their Optimum Poli-Seal, to fix stuff on the coating, if it gets scratched, etc..

To totally remove the coating after it is cured (and I dont know why you will want to remove it), would be by compounding it off.
Once cured, it doesnt yet for me, need anymore buffing at all. It cures very glossy and stays that way.

Optimum once said you can apply their Optimum Instant Detailer/Gloss Enhancer on it after you wash it and that will make it look great.

Yes, ONR washes are fine, and as we all know that product is supposed to add a little more gloss to the finish too.

No maintenance steps needed in my experience. Optimum has not come out and recommended any maintenance steps either. Its a permanent coating that so far, really lives up to that description.

l have washed cars with the coating with Optimum Car Wash and a good Chenille wash pad and had great results. The only thing I would warn you about this is that you need to move quickly away from the vehicle when spraying water on it, as it comes off so fast, it will get you wet if you are standing too close to it..

Good luck, looks like you have a well thought-out plan of action !
Dan F

 

I would skip step #11.

 

The majority of the car would be fine with just M205, but there are some areas that have etched water spots that would need to be removed.

I would most likely do all of the horizontal panels with 105 to remove water spots and obvious deep swirls, then the entire car with 205/85rd. The car has been corrected about 5 times total over the course of 3ish years.

My question about the buffing was related to after the application. You apply it to the paint (circular motions?) and then just walk away, or do you need to let it cure then buff it off similar to wax/sealant?

 

I apply Opti-Guard and Opti-Coat in straight motions, overlapping them, as much as possible, and where it needs to be a curving, round, etc., area, applying accordingly, and looking very carefully at the applied area from the top and sides to see the finish start to "flash". It will look like a rainbow effect of color kind of on the finish.

I let the product set for a minute or so, and then look again at the same panel, and taking a very soft and clean microfiber towel, I will very lightly wipe over that surface, taking care to smooth out any areas that are appearing to not dry as quickly because too much product is accumulated there.

As the product dries and cures, there is no buffing needed - in fact, if you mess with it as it is further drying, it will according to Optimum be sticky and the end result will not be perfectly smooth and clear, so once it is applied initially, and perhaps gone over lightly to smooth out any high spots, you need to walk away, leave it alone, do not touch it, and it will look fabulous when dried. After it cures, it will be just perfect if you follow the directions and have really prepared the paintwork beforehand.

Lucky for me, I have applied Zaino products for years previously, so I learned a long time ago, the meaning and technique of applying thin, coats evenly, as this was how Zaino needed to be applied.

Good luck with your project !
Dan F




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I just made my order for Opti-Coat and some ONR.

Went with the CarPro Eraser spray. Purchased three of the blue MFs from AG, and the 16x24 Chincillas on bogo for dying after the ONR. Will post a write up when I do the full detail and application.

Thank you everyone for your advice and help!

 

What makes me nervous is all the wipedowns after the final polish. How are you not marring the paint at all with IPA followed by whatever else before the OC goes on? IPA has no lubrication, and I don't know about Dawn but it doesn't seem to have much lubrication either. I wouldn't want to marr the paint at the very end just to top with OC and have it stuck there. Anyone have better options for final wipe downs to minimize marring?

 

Opticoat for sure. Everyone else sells some sort of reload this or quick spray that. Dr G says to not top.

I could sneeze all over a car and get infinite durability with monthly aquawax toppings.

I've had it on one car for a year. Simply amazing results. Slowly switching every other car over except maybe one garage queen.

 

Wash with Prima Hydro Wash (leaves nothing behind) and blow dry.

 

I've been using CarPro Eraser. It's not grabby like IPA and I haven't noticed any marring.

 

This what we use in the shop as well, it works very well, no maring and smells great!