Opticoat Wheels - correct sequence of prep? Feedback please

Hi everyone,

I'd like to Opticoat my wheels on my daily, and as everyone knows, removing wheels is a PITA when you don't have a proper lift, (one at a time) so obviously I only want to do this once and do it correctly.

I've come up with a series of steps that I'd like some feedback on: Am I missing a step or should any precede another? Let me know! Thanks!

Notes: Wheels are 3-4 years old, about 35k miles on them.
Relatively good condition, a couple of noticeable chips in the paint but nothing bad.
Never been polished or corrected, they are clearcoated and have been washed weekly or bi-weekly depending on weather using various brushes and wheel cleaners.

1. Take off wheel
2. Apply wheel cleaner (Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner or Sonax Full Effect) and let dwell a few minutes for color change
3. Agitate and rinse away
4. Apply Iron Remover (Iron-X, Auto Finesse Iron Out or similar) and let dwell
5. Rinse thoroughly, then apply APC to tire and brush with tire brush, then rinse again.
6. Clay all wheel surfaces with claybar and lube
7. Sonax Perfect Finish 4/6 with Rupes LHR75E and 4" medium pad
8. Menzerna SF4000 with same polisher and polishing pad
9. IPA wipedown
10. Apply OptiCoat
11. Level out any high spots with MF towel
12. Apply tire dressing to both sides of the tire sidewall
13. Bolt back onto car
14. Repeat for 3 remaining wheels

 

You should be able to just use PerfectFinish, give them a wipe will alcohol or a silicone remover (FAR more effective than IPA), and then seal them. Also, remove tar before claying.

If PF doesn't have enough cut, something like Menzerna FG400 is great, as it finishes down really well for something that abrasive.


My preferred method is:

- Apply Sonax wheel cleaner, let dwell, agitate and rinse
- Remove tar/glue deposits with a slow evaporating silicone remover (doesn't need rinsing as many oil based tar removers do)
- Apply Iron X, let dwell, agitate and rinse
- Clay
- Polish
- Silicone remover
- Coat
- Quick wipe with MF to remove high spots


Kind regards,

Ebbe

 

so something like this for removing the tar?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Motsenbockers-4-5-oz-Silicone-Latex-Caulk-and-Foam-Sealant-Remover-411-45/100395888

 

I dont think so... Read the Reviews of this product there... Scary on some products...

Why not just use a tar remover ? Believe Stoners made one maybe 10 years ago(?) that still works..
In my experience, a lot of tar dots will just pop off if hit with a plastic razor blade or even a fingernail..
Dan F

 

NO, Silicone Remover is also known as panel wipe, as in what body shops use in order to prepare/degrease before painting. Many types of Panel Wipe around though, but the slower evaporating types will be there for long enough to dissolve tar. And wear a proper mask/gloves when using it.

1Z/Einszett do a superb one called Acrysol, very safe and very fast acting.


Kind regards,

Ebbe

 

Thanks for the correction, I was confused.

 

Personally I'd stay away from Perfect Finish aka Perfect Filler. Just my opinion....

Your process is good. Just choose what polish and pad combo give the best RESULTS on your wheels, don't just use what everyone claims is an awesome product. Test a few out. HD Cut, FG400, 105/101/100/300 (megs), 205, PO203, etc......