really need advice on newer (2011) mercedes clear coat

I am in the middle of correcting a 2011 MB E550, which is Acrylic Black.

I guess this clear coat must be hard as a rock, because I have been using a rotary, with orange DD cutting pads and M105 and only getting decent defect removal.

I really need advice from someone who's worked on paint like this.

The customer did say he does not expect me to get the finish perfect this time, but I at least want there to be an improvement, and my OCDness is getting the best of me on this job, and I'm trying to get close to 80% correction.

The main problem is, even after a pass at 1800 rpms with M105 on the rotary, there is still RIDS literally everywhere...Its basically like making the area around all the RIDS really shiny, and thats all....I'm really frustrated right now.

Can anyone suggest techniques, equipment, products that I should be trying???


Thanks!

 

Add pressure and patience. I like to spritz my pad with water as it provides a better cut. You really have to work the paint.

 

Do you have any yellow pads? Those would be better suited for what you are trying to accomplish.

 

You may need to wool pad the paint. I wouldn't use 105 though. Try something a little less cut like a cutting polish. And work it in. You will get swirls but if you want perfection it will take time.

 

You have a couple of options. As suggested, try the yellow cutting pads from Phil. Way more cut than the orange and they finish down nicely, even when using 105. Alternatively, if you have a PC, Megs MF cutting discs with 105 are fantastic as well. The correction in this pic was one step with my PCXP/ Megs MF cutting disc / Megs D300. One step.

 

I too have had great success with Megs MF pads with d300 and m105. The vibration from the pc does get old after a few panels.

 

Just tried the MF system on hard Audi paint and I was blown away with the results. Cuts more then a yellow pad but finishes like an orange.

What speed do you use it on with the PC Ken?

 

Looks like I might have to order the MF pad system.

 

Wish I would have tried it earlier. So much easier to use then M105, just slightly less cut.

 

I usually spread the D300 around the working area a few times at speed 5 and then work it at 6 for a few minutes. Back to 5 for a few passes to jewel a bit and thats it. You can add a drop of 105 or M101 for a bit more cut if need be. If the vibration is bothering you, you are holding the polisher to tight. Release your grip a bit and the vibration is almost non existent.

 

Forgot to mention, that pic is a corvette as well.

 

I'm working on a 2009 MB CLS63 AMG. Using a yellow pad with M105 & power gloss mixed, which seems to work very well and finishes down nicely. I use about 3 pads per a panel.. Im pretty OCD about a fresh pad and it really helps correcting on super hard clear coat.

Sorry crappy iphone pics..

 

Wow 3 pads per panel..how many pads do you use on a full detail?

 

Is that with light pressure? I blow MF pads apart if I use them for more than a couple minutes at speed 6 :/

Also, OP, in regards to your question, you'll need some pretty heavy cut. In the ceramic clear coat, the hard nano-particles all accumulate at the top of the paint. This gives about 6 microns of extremely hard paint, and the paint underneath the ceramic finish is normal paint, so be aware of that. Uber Yellow pads work great at cutting through the hard portion of the paint.

 

I just wash them after then move to the next panel. This is only if the vehicle is hammered, Like the CLS im working on now.

 

Do you have any Menzerna compounds ? These were designed for use on Ceramic paint. I use Menzerna on about everything with Lake Country Cyan 5 inch pads on either my Makita 9227c or my Flex PE14-250 Rotaries and have no trouble removing majority of rids.
I do keep the pad moist, dont run it dry, and dont speed burn it up either. I use sometimess a lot of pressure for a few seconds, and always have really good light on the panel so I can see what I am doing..

About the only thing I use foam wool on these days is Airplane paint.

Good luck with this.

Dan F

 

Light to moderate pressure. I never bear down on my PC. I let the pads and polishes do all the work. I'm a big believer in marking your DA backing plate and making sure it's spinning as freely as possible at all time. Light pressure, slow movement.

 

Well guys, decided that the solution to my problem was to just be really patient and tedious with M105 and orange pad. I do not have a yellow cutting pad or the MF cutting system (though I'm going to purchase them after this detail). Turns out the reason there are so many defects and RIDS is because this car used to belong to the wife of the owner of Hendrick's Motors in Charlotte, and every time she came to the dealer, the lot jockeys scrubbed it down and ashamedly tried to compound it quite a bit, in an attempt to "keep it detailed" for her. SHEESH. In fact, there was even some pretty bad sanding marks that were not properly removed....I DON't EVEN WANNA KNOW! Well, I just got in a trance thanks to Gareth Emery Podcast, and did each panel at a time taking my time. Basically, I hit a section, and then I'd tape mark any really bad rids left over and then did a second pass focusing some moderate pressure there. There were some RIDS I just couldn't get even after 2 passes, but I think the result are outstanding. I can't wait to share to whole write up with you guys. The paint looks dazzling.

Btw, I used Zaino Z2pro as LSP because the South Carolina sun is giving me a lot of issues with carnauba's sweating lately...my M3 sat out in the sun all weekend and now there is wax sweat all over the hood I apply is super thin too, I really just think Carnauba in long hours of sun will always sweat, and I don't want my client to see a bunch of haziness in his hood this week.

 

Btw, NorthEast, I wash my pad after each panel. That really helps to keep the polish from breaking down prematurely