I think my LSP failed...

yeah, there is barely any protection remaining...beading+sheeting+ease of cleaning will indicate that protection is there...
In your case I'd strip it and start over...And yes, you will be better off with having a sealant base (and remember to let it cure for AT LEAST 12 hours) and then top off with nuba...

 

Beading product create nice tight beads of water. That can in certain dusty, or hard water areas be very undesirable. As you can get some massive spotting if the water dries on the car.

Sheating agents make the water one uniform mass. That mass has a larger weight. That weight pulls the full mass of water off usually via gravity. IE the water Sheets off in one piece.

Typically you can have a cross of the two. IE you can make a carnuaba that beads tightly sheet with a open tap hose when rinsing. or you can make a polymer sealant/acrylic sealant that sheets bead by a spray of fine misting water.

In general Polymer and more specifically Acrylic sealants Sheet water, dirt and debris off. Carnauba (true carnauba's) bead moisture.

 

Clay - I like Clay Magic blue and their lube - #49 Body Shine, then quick wash/rinse/polish, I always polish after claying. AG HD - I like the red pads from LC on my PC at speed 3, I work the snot out of them and get a good uniform coverage, also working the thick areas helps with removal! I agree with Grouse, never saw any value in trying to layer a LSP, I will do another wax well before the first coat is gone though.

 

Some good points raised in this post.

1. A polymer forms a molecular bond with the paint surface; this is what makes them so durable

2. An acrylic polymer are sulfonic acid-based so they hold up better to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no cross-linking capability with this technology, however, they form an anchor with the paint by etching, which gives this type of polymer its durability.The acid anchoring also allows them to be layered once the base coat has cured

3. One of the reasons behind the application of a Carnauba wax ‘topping’ besides aesthetics is the provision of a sacrificial barrier.

4. Using a quick detailer (QD) as a lubricant, can cause problems as many of them contain some form of solvent, alcohol or surfactants and most contain silicone and / or wax that negatively affect clay or polishes abrasive ability.It also negativly affects a wax or polymers ability to adhere to the paint surface

5. Both Carnauba wax and polymer oxidize as a way of providing a sacrificial protection against ultra violet radiation, neither of these elements contain UV stabilizers (protection) they must be added. Due to the protection layer being degraded (oxidization) by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) the stabilizers have to be periodically renewed or replenished if continuing protection is to be achieved, there is no such thing as a permanent protection, it a matter of physics, not chemistry, so it is imperative that you renew it or your surfaces will degrade

One last point a surface protections 'beading' ability has nothing to do with actual protection, beading is a function of surface tension and contact angle