I had asked Avi that before and now I'll be damned if I can remember what he told me! I think it's 12 hours, certainly no MORE than that and possibly less. Sorry I can't be more exact.
do you have to use reload? or can you use other products, i know some people have used V7; also can you put nuba on it, or is it pointless? Im considering getting some for my personal car since STi paint is like butter.
I purchased Reload for Cquartz since Richy told me to give it a try and he always has given me great advice. He said that it makes the surface really slick so I decided to get it. I will try it out this week. As for topping it I wouldn't just correct the finish first and apply it, it makes your ride look like mirror. Sent from my HTC EVO using Tapatalk
People often ask about topping CQ. I use the example of buying your wife a hot dress that shows off all her curves and yet she wears a big bulky overcoat on top of it. It hides the hotness of the dress. If you top the CQ, you lose the dirt and water shedding abilities it has. It makes the paint so smooth that it looks wet. The only thing I top it with is ReLoad or Aquawax. You will love what CQ does to that soft paint!!!
Reload is not a Must , but since its based on inorganic substances also, we strongly recommend it, nuba or any un petroleum(Naphta) base wax can be good as well. though as Richy said above, you dont really need anything above Cquartz
i used Reload on my wheel dish/lip last weekend - i tend to weekly wash my wheels regardless of it rains or not just to stay on top of them got caught in the wet and for the first time the rain water seemed to clean the wheels. It doesnt really feel "that" slick, imo FK425 feels slicker, but it does bead well
once cured, I'll still continue to use glazes and waxes im going to treat it simply as another layer of clear coat i'm itching to see how e-zyme will look on solid black, or maybe I should test my fuzion pot.... decisions decisions
ok, thanks Domino, that is what I want to hear..............that was sort of what I was thinking as well. again all good points. Durability? what are we talking? I know its not as permenent as the Opticoat or am I wrong? what are the differences between Opti-coat 2.0 and Cquartz? Im looking at both.......
Hmmm, that's interesting. I thought Reload left a slicker finish on Cquartz than FK425, but everyone's experience varies!
Avi or anybody that knows since my mustang just was just hit and is in the process of getting repaired. I am wondering if it comes back with overspray can I clay the panels with Claymagic's light clay or will it remove Cquartz. And if the finish is swirled which it most likely will be because they are going to wash it at the body shop, what is the most aggressive polish and pad combo I can use without removing Cquartz from the rest of the body? I only have half a bottle left and need it to to re-coat the following when I get it it back, do you think I will have enough: Front bumper Left fender diver door Left side mirror driver door belt molding Hood & Hood Scoop
Clay will not remove Cquartz, I tried. I have polished a few panels that I coated with Cquartz with Menz PO85RD and honestly could not tell how much of the coating was left, but even after multiple IPA wipedowns, the beading/sheeting/slickness was still there as it was before. It would be interesting to test how much coating is removed with a PTG.
I removed marring last time with 85RD and a Hydrotech Tangerine but via PC on panels with Cquartz and it was not affected. I was wondering if it comes back badly swirled from the body shop can I use say a Green or Yellow Uber with 85RD on my Makita or is this too much cut?
It's made by the Czech republic, it's like a clay, it can be formed to fit in your phone and explode your head off...play COD more!!! or watch some YOUtube demo's
Oh I should have read it right Semtex I know what that is lol your crazy man I reread the post I know what it is now I though he was referring to some product lol