Who needs Iron X?

As I started to look at the forums again this spring, I noticed Iron X mentioned a lot. I get the idea of it but when is it really necessary? If it is something I should get, do I need to get the soap or the liquid?

Basically, I need an Iron X primer

TIA,
Tony

 

hey welcome back around. just get the iron x liquid/spray. its for iron deposits on automotive surfaces...IE rail dust. can also be used on wheels as a secondary cleaning for iron deposits.

 

i dont really get it either

i did get a sample of the iron x wash that ill use prior to applying cquartz

but this whole iron x deal, so what was everyone using for iron deposits prior to this?

 

If prior iron deposits are rail dust deposits, an aggressive clay was typically used I thought.

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Yep, it lets you skip using an aggressive clay which helps you avoid inducing marring during a decontamination process.

 

sonax FE on paint yes yes?

 

I was thinking the exact same thing.... someone needs to try it. It should work without issues since it's PH neutral.

 

troy once told me it works

 

I tried it, Sonax doesn't do anything on the paint.

I know that IronX is presented as this essential step before claying, but I actually use it quite frequently as a pre-wash. I spray it onto the lower panels, let it turn red, and then pressure-wash it off and it knocks out the dirt without taking the wax with it.

IronX Soap Gel is pretty nice also. Super LSP-friendly while cleaning very well.

So for me, as a recreational/hobbyist car washer, I think the IronX products are really nice just for maintenance washes. And from what I understand, a lot of professional detailers use IronX for a more advanced/thorough method of paintwork cleansing.

 

Yup I have tried it, no problems but I didn't have any IronX available at the time. IronX is cheaper and is my first choice for this purpose.

 

Sonax DOES work on paint...for those who wanted to know--IronX and Sonax are very similar in their chemicals at the roots; however,personally believe that IronX and IronCut are more aggressive than Sonax.

You use such a chemical when you have embedded iron contaminants in paint caused by rail roads, industrial fallout, certain exhaust systems, and certain brake dust. Claying is extremely tedious and time consuming when removing embedded iron particles and can also induce some crazy marring.

It's the best thing since sliced bread for those of us with high-performance brakes/exhaust on white vehicles

 

That is VERY weird considering so many factory and after-market wheels nowadays are painted and clear coated very much like the paint on a car...so I would assume if it works on painted wheels it will work on any painted surface.

 

I got painted wheels and yes Sonax does work very well. So it must work on paint too but I don't think I'd use it for that. But that's just my opinion.

 

all my wheels are painted + clearcoated (Hurrah OEM) and sonax works fine

 

Agreed. In my experience, it works perfectly fine on paint. If it didn't work on someone's paint maybe there were no iron contaminants...

 

beg to differ. ive tried it multiple times, and it did work. first was a white car, so the results were obvious.

 

may have to buys some more sonax.......... what is the dwell time?

 

A couple of minutes. The green foam will turn red when reacting with iron and other deposits and it should be pretty obvious when it's time to rinse it off. However, it is pH neutral so no worries if it dries.

 

guess I'll have to try the Sonax again I couldn't get the results I wanted on the few cars I did.

 

Why use Sonax on paint if Iron X is cheaper? Unless I am wrong about price? So Iron X will not remove an LSP?