Hi guys Following on from this thread http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum...ussion/28629-need-some-quick-info-dwg-2-a.htm I was faced with an unplanned correction on my GTR which i completed over 2 days. I think i hit the BH Autofoam too hard in my new foam lance and stripped all my LSP, this resulted in some very bad water spots on every panel. I tried a few products to remove them including PoliSeal, Vic Deep Cleanse, 106FA but wasnt having any luck. So here's how it went... * Wash - BH Autofoam in the lance. Sponged with Opt Car Wash and a spray of P21S TAW per panel * Wheels - Prima Amigo + BF Metal Sealant + 2x PB Wheel Sealant. OptiSeal on the barrels * Tyres - CG VRP * Glass - IPA + OptiSeal * Correction - 203S on White LC via DA. 203s on Orange LC on my bonnet as the engine heat really etched them into the clear, then refined with 106FA on White LC * Glazed - DWG 2.0 on Black LC * Sealed - Menz Powerlock on Red LC * LSP - Will be applied next wash - CK YMW + Naviwax Ultimate This is the first time ive used DWG 2.0 and all i can say is wow! This product really impressed me. It went on very smooth, but what really blew me away was how slick the paint felt after removal and how easy it removed. This would have to be the slickest feeling product ive ever used, and by far the easiest to remove. I thought my fav nuba glaze CK RMG/VMG was easy to remove, but this is even better. It added a little more depth and wetness to the paint, but nowhere near as much depth as CK RMG/VMG. This will be my go to glaze for sealants from now on, provided i dont need to clean and glaze in one step. And that's my only gripe with this product, that it doesnt clean. Though it did remove some minor 203S smearing that i had missed when removing, but id imagine thats more from the rubbing of the pad than any cleaners in the DWG Next up i applied Menz Powerlock. Ive used this before a couple times now and knew what to expect. Suprisingly the slickness dropped off slightly when removing it. The paint was definitely slicker with the DWG. I didnt really notice much change in the depth but the reflections did step up a bit. Clarity is noticeably better than when i use my CK RMG/VMG + nuba, and i guess that's what sealants do and the pics, all taken from my iphone4..... was an overcast day but the sun peeked out in a couple of the pics DWG 2.0 - once pad was prep'd, this is all i needed for half the bonnet and on the paint results...
Domino- looks awesome, although I don't know how it couldn't. As detail doc said, DWG 2.0 can be used on top of lsp's also, which I think is a really cool attribute. I like your car, and your mod choice.
Looks great man. Told you you would love DWG 2.0, this stuff is great. On metallics, it makes flakes pop like crazy.
thanks for the hook up mate, that DWG 2.0 is some amazing stuff. The slickness has me wondering how itd work on wheels, wouldnt brake dust just spin off and not adhere to the surface, ill give it a shot next wash does it have any sealant properties, or just a pure glaze that will wash off?
really liking the VRP, it gives a slightly more matt look than the PB B&B i was using prior. And i do prefer the thicker consistency, makes spreading it and avoiding getting it on my rim edge easier
i only put them on a few weeks ago. Ive run Yoki Advans in the past and do rate them highly. They are very soft in the sidewall for such a low profile, and alot more comfortable running over road reflectors, train tracks and freeway expansion joints. Much softer than the rock hard Bridgestone runflats i had as oem, and saved a fair bit of weight in the tyres alone
It adds some minor protection to the paint, but I don't think it could withstand the heat of the wheels. Another Danase product that is super slick is the QD, too bad it is no longer available. I still have two bottles of that stuff and I can say it is the slickest QD I have ever tried.
i cant as i corrected the paint prior to app detaildoc, is it even slicker than FK425, that stuff is very impressive and my go to wheel QD are the danase products made by warner too, i remember his classic wax looking very similar to cg xxx
Looks stunning. I know how difficult the paint on your GTR is, so my hat goes off for keeping is so clean.
to be honest, apart from the softness, it's not really that difficult Admittedly there was a steep learning curve when I first corrected it. I became use to the rock hard paint on my M3 and being able to finish with an orange LC and 106ff with no issues. The biggest issue on the GTR is how soft the paint was under the heat of the halogens. Even removing product with an mf caused micro marring, so I learnt to cold buff, one pass per panel and if I had to go back for a second pass I went back to it later Also I learnt what to use, and what didn't chalk up on the paint, namely 203s and 106fa. So I sold off all my other polishes incl. 85rd, prima twins and my opt spray The softness works in my favor too in that a hobbiest like me can get a flawless correction with a DA and very little working time. I just have to ensure very slow passes
Surprised to read that 203S wouldn't, but 85RD would chalk up. Have you tried Scholl S40 or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Professional?
yeh it seems only the newer ceramic clear menz products worked well, and also clean up off the panel really easily i was at one point into trying new polishes, but ive decided since the 203s and 106fa work so well for me and i get perfect results, im just going to stick with them. I also have powergloss for spot correcting deep scratches, but most ive ever had to use was powergloss on a white LC my interest in detailing is mainly in playing around with paste waxes - hence my ever growing nuba collection