For everyone that has the Meg's M105, is it normal for the product to dry up really quickly? I've read in the forums that the temp and humidity plays a role. I'm in phoenix AZ so I think that the temperature outside at the time I was polishing was between 95-100F. I was inside the garage though. Humidity was relatively low. Anyway, I primed the pad and applied 3 pea sized beads along the circumference of the pad. I spread the product around and as soon as I was doing my 2nd pass, the polish is all gone!! I also read in the forums that you could spray a small amount of water on the panel to revive the product and I did that. It helped a lot and I could see the polish again. But it would dry up very quickly again. Is this normal because of it's thickness? What are your techniques for using this compound and how many passes do you get before it dries up? Thanks for your help.
Yes, that is pretty normal wtih M105. M105 is a very dry product by itself and doesn't work all that well with heat. When ambient temps are high outside I dont even bother with M105 because it flashes too quick and turns to concrete. What machine are you using, DA or rotary? If your using a DA a good alternative when its hot out is PB's SSR3 or optimum hyper compound (original) or compound II. For a rotary you could use the same as DA plus M95. M95 has the same amount of cut as M105 but has a much better working time an is better suited for working in high temps.
work time for polish is very low, maybe 30 seconds or so, i heard that spraying little QD helps but i very rarely have to do this when i work on cars. if it dries too far is might be humidity is too high or too low. i usu it mostly on DA with temps around 75-80 and works great wish manufacturer put optimal work condition for polishes
It seems like even in normal weather it dries up quickly. Like after two passes. Maybe not even that!
Hey man, what's going on? So what's your technique and how do you solve the problem? Do you spray water onto the surface or reapply polish? thnx.
That does nothing to help extend the work time of M105 or any product. It might help initially to prevent dry buffing on a fresh pad but thats it. Pad priming sprays is like snake oil to me. Either prime pads with product or wet the face of the pads with plain water ::Edit:: I retract my previous statement of Gloss-it not working. I categorized it as a regular quick detailer type pad primer. Just took a look at EVP prime and from the description and its more of a lubricating oil spray. Talking about lubricating oil.... After working on an G37 with "sticky" clear I searched the forums for a easier way to correct this type of paint. What I found was some people used a small drop of mineral oil/baby oil to prevent polishes from gumming and to give it a better lubrication. You could definitely give that a try.
If it's starting to dry out on you, you can mist the panel or the pad with water and that will help to extend your work time.
3. M105 has a very fast working time (10-15 seconds) 4. Like all linear abrasive compounds or polishes, they require a correctly primed pad, to ensure sufficient product, the use of consistently applied pressure to ensure abrasive contact with the paint surface, this ensures consistent surface contact. Linear abrasives require that you work the product until you achieve the desired finish (taking care not to allow the oils / lubricant to dry out). 5. Prime the pad by semi-saturating (80%) the foam and then allow the liquid time to permeate the pore structure of the foam, and then ensure to spread the liquid abrasive uniformly. Keeping the pad flat while applying a constant / consistent pressure; thus ensuring constant paint / polish contact, when the initial polish has been expended replace with 4-5 small pea sized dots. Keep the pad flat (like you would with a sanding block) while applying constant pressure, the oils in the polish provide the lubrication (like the water does in wet-sanding).Do not allow the pad to “load-up” 6. Re-wetting (Meguiar’s® Last Touch Spray Detailer, diluted 1:1 distilled water) the abrasive residue will re-activate the product and provide extended work time. Do not use too much as it will cause the pad / polish to aquaplane; negating the abrasives ability
You don't have to spread the product, just have your eye fix on the area you want to work and buff away. When using m105, try to lightly prime the pad with product first and use a few pea size to work a very small area(1ftx1ft). I don't quite like the idea of spritz water to increase work time. Doesn't work well for me, I find that it encourage gumming (especially on oxidise car) and unnecessary cloak up the pad.
Glad to see I am not alone. I bought Meg.'s 105 after someone told me what a great compund it was, and it may be, but it set up too quickly for me. I even wnet online and found after market/user recommendations for use, and I still could not get the product to work for me. I agree with other users, who stated the product set-up in two passes, maybe less, and was like trying to remove concrete. I too thought about lubricating with a QD or other product, but I always had problems, with residual remaining on the surface when a lubricant was used. This residue was attributed to the QD not allowing the compounds to break down properly due to the decreased friction caused by the QD or primer. I looked around for a replacement compound and tried Optimum's Hyper Compound, which is a spray (yes, spray) product. Not only does the spray product make for a cleaner application, but I have found it be as affective as 105, but has a considerably longer work time, with little to no difficulty when removing. After removal, I use a waterless wash to make sure I get any missed or remaining residue, and the car looks great. Optimum recommends following up with their Optimum Hyper Polish, another spray application, but I have found any polish to work well as a follow-up.
