Which wax/sealant to use?

So I've started detailing for my summer job (I'm 17), and I'm really enjoying it so far. Only a couple people have asked me to wax their cars, but now I have 2 in one week that want them waxed. I only wax, I don't clay, 1) because I have no experience with clay and 2) I couldn't justify charging any more to clay it, my customers wouldn't be able to tell the difference and it wouldn't be worth it. Nothing that I've ever detailed is in very good shape, and the 2 cars I have to wax this week are no different. An old, scratched and dinged Acura and a used Chevy Cobalt. I charge $25 extra to wax a car and $30 to wax a truck/van. I do it all by hand and I take my time and make sure it looks really good, so I feel that the price reflects the effort and time I put into waxing a car. But my question is...what kind of wax/sealant should I use? Keep in mind the cars I detail are swirled and generally beat up and I don't clay them...it almost seems like a waste to use too nice of a wax...but I just don't know. I also want a wax that will really make the cars look good, even for the condition they're in. Anyway, here's what I've got to choose from, this is what I have:

 

you should be using AIO's, something like Opt Poli Seal, Z-AIO, Prima Amigo, Dodo Need 4 Speed, etc which cleans, removes/hide swirls and leaves behind some protection all in one app

 

I'd get a bottle of collinite 845 and use that. It will help fill some of the swirling and brighten up faded paint. Plus its cheap and has great durability and is easy to use.

 

You've got some good products there, especially the Power Lock and P21S. BUT, you've gotta get a clay bar. The wax is only as good as it's prep work. You've gotta prep the car for wax. You wouldn't paint a car without primer RIGHT? In a nutshell, get a clay bar, and your customers will be happy with any of those products.


John

 

clay bar is very simple

spray a panel down with lube, take the clay bar and work in a back and forth motion. Light pressure. After a section, knead the clay until fresh clay is on the surface. Wipe off the lube and move to a different section.

While claying you will feel the junk being pulled from the clay, once is glides effortlessly over the paint then you're done

 

yeh but claying marrs paint, especially dark colours

you cant go straight to wax from clay on anything other than silver

i still think his best bet is using AIOs if he only wants to one step each car

 

It can marr paint, especially soft paints... but if he uses and AIO it would clean it up.

But I do agree that an AIO would be his best route if he's going to just wax it.

Something like Poorboys Polish w/Sealant. Has to be a fav of mine!

 

Yes, I'm just going to wax them, I'm not doing any sort of paint correction. I think I'm gonna try out that Zymol wax and see how it works out. I've used that Megs stuff and it's OK but I want to try something different. I picked up the Zymol at Target on clearance...

 

If you aren't going to clay I would strongly recommend an All-In-One. Jeff's Werkstat Prime is very good.
WERKSTAT Detailing: Prime
There aren't that many OTC choices I'd recommend. The Gold Class you have is the new one. It's supposed to be a lot better than the old one but I haven't used it yet and it was about ten years ago when I tried the old one. It does contain minor polishing agents IIRC.
Menzerna Powerlock is very good but it doesn't contain any cleaners or polishers.

 

I personally wouldn't use a sealant if not claying the vehicle. For some reason I would think a sealant needs a cleaner bonding surface than a carnauba. I have not experienced marring with fine grade clays.

If I'm not polishing a vehicle and just doing a wash/wax, I will wash/clay/glaze/lsp. For a car I charge $75. Trucks/SUV's vary from 100-150. In addition to the extra paint, I hate washing the roofs of SUV's and trucks. Well, trucks are easy because I can stand in the box. The other thing I find more tedious about trucks/suv's is the wheel wells need more attention.

Anyways, I don't have a wash package that does not include claying. For a glaze I use CG EZ Creme. LSP on those is almost always collinite 845.

 

Duragloss 501 and collinite 845 are my suggestions. Don't take this wrong but I hope you are not selling this service as a "detail"

 

Not to be harsh or anything but if you aren't going to clay it, I don't really see a point in caring what you put to protect the vehicle. Just put something cheap on there like Collinite.

In addition, it's pretty justifiable to clay a client's vehicle as long as you explain the benefits to them and by also showing them how smooth their vehicle feels afterward. I'm sure they'd appreciate the smooth surface rather than a rough one.

 

They wouldn't care if it was smooth or not. These are not people that care about their cars, they just want it cleaned and if they want it waxed it's 'cos they just want it to be a bit more shiny. If I thought they would care enough to want their car clayed I would do it, honestly I would, but they really don't care about their cars that much. Really I just want a wax that will make the paint look noticeably more shiny and glossy, that's all my customers really care about and that's all they would notice. I'm not trying to get out of doing extra work or anything, I would be happy to clay their cars if I knew they would appreciate it.

And yes, I do sell it as a detail. It's the closest to a detail that their cars will probably ever see, and the closest to a detail I can offer. They know that if they want more done than I offer, there's plenty of other places that will do it. Although if you think I should, I could always change it to "auto cleaning services".

 

I did my truck before a show and after the M205 went over it with Menzerna PO85RD and a gray Lake Country pad. After an IPA wipe down then apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 and after 12 hours then final wax. I used this exact approach and it finish looked wet it was so shinny. For the wax I used Collinite 845 as well. Menzerna Power Lock Sealant is a great product and will work equally as well.

 

I agree with you to some extent. I also take into account my customers needs and wants while doing a detail. I did an acura tl a little while ago for a elderly woman. I did not spend the time or waste the customers money, detailing the engine bay, wheel wells, or anything in the trunk. I focued my time on the things that would make her happy, seeing the paint shine and removing the marks on the paint.

However i would most strongly recommend a clay bar, i will not wax a car without a clay bar, kind of like i wont wax without washing first, by not claying first you could end up 'waxing' the surface junk into the clear.

My recomendation for is as follows. Your not always going to be detailing these types of cars, especially if you enjoy it, you'll want nicer cars and want to work for people who will enjoy it more, so you, yourself can have more personal satisfaction. So you'll need to brush up on your skills for claying.

Since its cheap, good for the client (They will notice a difference, I promise), and doesnt take that much time, and simply just to get the expirerence behind it i would start using a clay bar on every job you can. You would be surprised how much a clay bar will clean up the paint! You can buy the kits at any auto store and you can use them for a couple cars, so even if you only charge 5 or 10 to your customer, in the end you'll be doing them and yourself a service...

Good luck with your future work, you have truly come to the right place for advice, there are a lot of knowledgeable people around here!!!!

 

I just cannot bring myself to not clay a car. It takes all of 20 minutes. It will also make the surface more optically reflective, increasing shine.

If I may ask, what do you charge for a simple exterior wash like you are providing?

My minimum charge for a wash/clay/wax is $75.

 

If I was just washing it...$20 for a car, $30 for SUV/van/truck. To wax I'd add $25 and 30 to those, respectively. (It takes forever to hand wax big vehicles). Most people don't want their car waxed or anything, just washed.

The biggest issue I'm running into is my parents. (remember I'm 17) They say that no one cares that much about their car, and not to waste my time doing something like that to someone's car. And they had never even heard of claying until I mentioned it to them a couple months ago. I'm not making excuses, my dad heard somewhere that claying was done to remove the clearcoat and is still against me doing anything with a clay bar. He claimed that I would be ruining my GTI if I tried it.

I do want to start claying though, you've convinced me:applause:. As mentioned before, it would really be beneficial to know how to and it does make the car look better, and is better for the car, y'all are right. The only thing I am worried about is the clay marring the surface...I've heard it can do that and since I don't do paint correction I can't fix any marring done to the paint.

 

The reason I asked about what you charge is I would not include a clay for $20 either. To me, a $20 job isn't worth my time. I have to get everything out, set it up, clean up after, wash towels, etc. My basic wash/wax package is the very least I will work on someone's car for.

But I guess it's all about which market is profitable in your area. Honestly, wax will last longer, water will bead up higher, fall off the paint surface faster, and those are both things that are readily visible by a customer, and they will attach a value to it.

Try the finest clay available at detailedimage. Or Clay Magic Blue, or Sonus Green. I've never had marring from Sonus Green. Or at Walmart they have teh Meguiar's kit. That was the first claybar I ever used, and had me hooked.

Tell your dad that a claybar does not remove clearcoat. The best way to describe it to someone is "it's like shaving your car". It takes all the stubble off, but does not remove any good clear coat.

 

Tell your Dad to do some research before passing uneducated assumptions down to you.

 

I know you love your Dad and you're under his roof. What you must realize is that he is wayyyy out in left field as far as paint care is concerned......he has no clue. You know more about clay now than he ever will and you haven't actually used it yet. With that in mind get yourself some mild clay and do a spot on your car on the sly. You will be blown away by the positive results and mild clay doesn't mar the surface. Once you yourself have seen & felt the difference you can show it to Pop or keep it to yourself. Seeing and feeling the results may help him realize how wrong he was or he might get pissed at you for doing it against his wishes, your call there.

Any of the mild clay kits sold over the counter at Pep Boys or Wal-Mart will work just fine. Both Mother's & Meguiar's have one.
I also agree that you should not refer to the work you are doing as "Detailing" because it's not. As far as which wax to use, use what you have until it's almost gone then try another one like some that were suggested. The Zymol will help fill in or hide marks so use it on the worst jobs.