Car getting respray. what products should I use

G'day maties,

My car sits outside exposed to the elements 24/7 and the paint is looking a bit sad. It is getting a respray very soon for a number of reasons including:

1. Getting a hard-top and I'm concerned about colour matching (car is yellow, hard-top is red)
2. Swirl marks all over
3. Uninspiring factory paint job (very little clear coat)
4. Faded

I was considering using the following combination:

1. CG Ez-Creme Glaze
2. JetSeal 109 x2
3. Collinite 845 or 915 x2
4. Topped weekly or biweekly with CG Speed Wipe Spray

My Quetions are:
1. Do I need to use a polish on fresh paint?
2. How long before I should start polishing it?
3. Will the Glaze make a difference on fresh paint?
4. Would you do anything differently?

Everything is to be done by hand.

Cheers :headbang:

 

The combo is bullet proof, should not be an issue. I personally like 845.

1) On fresh paint, not right off the bat. Do you know if they will bake the paint?
2) I waited three months before polishing fresh paint.
3) A glaze will only wetten the final look, or hide any minor imperfections.
4) I'd use a wax instead of a sealant/insulator combo. But that's personal preference.

 

Thanks for the speedy response,

I do believe the painter has an oven so it will be baked.

And what do you mean by using a wax instead of a sealant/insulator? Isn't Collinite a wax?

As my car sits outside all the time I prefer something with some protective benefits (e.g. JetSeal).

 

See article in Detailing School section -http://bit.ly/5f3iP5

 

you can use pure carnauba wax after a week...915 in this case will be your best friend...but no paint correction shall be done in the first 3 months after a respray...

 

thanks for that togwt. very very useful info.

What I gathered from that is you shouldn't use any products that contains solvents or abrasives until the paint has fully cured. And if they don't contain solvents or abrasives they are ok for immediate use?

Anyone happen to know if the products I mentioned contain any solvents or abrasives?

 

Its ok to polish paint when its fresh. Show cars are typically wetsanded and polished within days of coming out of the booth. Two things you don't want to do are 1. Seal the paint. Paint needs about 30 -45 days on average for all the gasses to escape allowing the paint to fully cure. 2. Use anything with silicone in it on your paint within that curing time. If you use a silicone based product on your paint before it cures, it will bond with the paint and no amount of APC, polishing etc will remove it which could potentially lead to problems with the paint. You can get a sealant that will allow the paint to breathe and offer some protection. The name escapes me right now. Maybe someone else can chime in. As for the collinite, 845 is more of a synthetic. You can use 476 or 915 if you want a paste. I personally would use 845 as my base and then use your choice of carnaubas as 845 looks great on any colour and its durability far surpasses that of Jetseal.

 

I gave Collinite 476 a try earlier this year and it does last as long as others have posted here!

If you are concerned about longevity, you have selected a great product in Collinite for long lasting protection!

 

Wizards?

 

The application of a specific ‘fresh paint safe’ or polymer type product, Zaino Polishes (exclude the use of either Z1 or ZFX™) Optimum Car Wax is water-based and is safe on fresh paint, or use Presta Fast Wax. Allow an ‘initial gas off’ (evaporate) /cure aerobic process of 7 days before application

 

I believe thats the one. Thanks.

 

Thanks all, you know your stuff without any of the BS, that's why I like this forum the best.

I think I'll just wait and use the products I mentioned.

Is two weeks sufficient curing time?

I am also toying with the idea of layering CG Blitz Acrylic Spray instead of Collinite, or on top of it. Any thoughts on that?

 

Very confusing information. Just read through your guide to paint systems, in which you suggest that carnauba should not be used for at least 30 days, but you then recommend Optimum Car Wax as being safe for fresh paint. Optimum Car Wax is carnauba based. Your other recommendation Presta Fast Wax is silicone based. Are these good to use on fresh paint or not?

I would also disagree with you over using abrasives on fresh paint. How many freshly painted cars come out of the oven without some kind of defect/contamination which require a de-nib and buff? Not many.

 

Thanks to one of the other members I just found this website. I use these products on a regular basis and would happily recommend using this for the first month or so after respray

Mark V Products ::: Waxes, Polishes, Glazes & Compounds ::: Hand Glaze 16oz

 

Very confusing information. Just read through your guide to paint systems, in which you suggest that carnauba should not be used for at least 30 days, but you then recommend Optimum Car Wax as being safe for fresh paint. Optimum Car Wax is carnauba based.

A: OPW is a synthetic not a carnauba- based wax

Your other recommendation Presta Fast Wax is silicone based. Are these good to use on fresh paint or not?

A; Silicone is inert and is used in most car products (polish, wax, car wash, etc) it’s not harmful to fresh paint

I would also disagree with you over using abrasives on fresh paint. How many freshly painted cars come out of the oven without some kind of defect/contamination which require a de-nib and buff? Not many.

A: [If it just came from a paint / body shop fresh paint shouldn’t need polishing. If it should, I would strongly advise against the use of heavily applied pressure and overtly abrasive products as they behave more aggressively on soft fresh paint]

 

Fresh paint safe glaze’ - while a paint is cross linking, using solvent- based waxes or sealants is not ideal since the solvents penetrate the paint and soften it and will interfere with the outgas / cross linking process. The common ingredients in a’ fresh paint safe’ glaze are: water, glycerine (to produce a high shine) amino-functional mineral oils and mild abrasive Kaolin (China clay) to burnish the surface and produce a gloss, they exclude silicone and wax, some polymers are also formulated as ‘fresh paint safe’ for the same reasons

This is taken from your own guide, in which you state that products with silicone or wax should be excluded. Also, no such thing as amino functional mineral oils.

This is the product description for Optimum Car Wax taken from their website

Optimum Car Wax is the only spray car wax that provides the durability of a paste wax and long-lasting UV protection. A combination of high-grade Carnauba wax, sealant polymers and UV inhibitors forms a protective layer on the painted surface to protect the paint from sun damage and environmental elements for up to 5 months.

One of the most widely used polishes in bodyshops around the world is Farecla G3, which is used to polish fresh paint after de nibbing. It contains both harsh abrasives and solvents.

 

Good to see TOGWT accepted my points and ammended his guide accordingly. Thank you.

 

I always keep an open mind and I would also strongly suggest that you verify any information that I or anyone else shares with you. I’m certainly not a subject-matter expert, much less a guru; if you find a mistake or know of a better method to solve the problem please share it as I’m always willing to learn. Because the more I learn, the more I realize what I don’t know. Then at some point, I hope to have learned enough to realize, that I know nothing at all

 

I'd check with the paint manufacturer before applying any wax. Glasurit, Sikkens, Spies, Standox, and PPG all have specific data on this. Even baked finishes outgas for a period after being sprayed. Carnauba wax can slow or prevent outgassing. Have you ever seen what happens when you shoot basecoat over a primer that hasnt fully cured? Its ugly, and needs to be sanded back down.

Corrections are totally safe, but shouldnt be needed. The paint "should" be flawless when you pick it up and pay. The shop will be wet sanding and polishing the paint within 24 hours of leaving the oven. Thats a bit more exptreme than a standard correction.

I'd suggest leaving it alone until you can wax it, or simply insist the car is swirl free when you pick it up. Body shops are NOTORUOIS for butchering finishes with a rotary. Plus, they love glazes with heavy fillers to speed up the process.