I ask this because my sister in law asked me to detail her car. I can't really say no because she has always been good to me and of course she isn't going to pay me. The paint on her car is shot to hell. Clear coat failure in lots of places. She just wants it to shine a little more than what it does right now. I was thinking I would do a 1-step using Klasse AIO and be done with it. Should I really clay this car or would it be a waste of time? Like I said the car already has CC failure on the hood, roof and trunk of the car. Tell me what you think. Thanks! :thumb:
i would because i care about my pads. you will be swirling contaminants arond the paint and digging them into your pads. Claying is a short process. Takes me less than a half hour usually. Mix up some ONR with Distilled Water and just use back and forth motion in one direction (i go front and back not up and down). Do it the right way and clay it first.
If it was me, I'd only clay the areas where the paint isn't shot to hell. Then use the KAIO on the entire vehicle. Sometimes there are vehicles we should turn down completely.
If you're doing K-AIO by machine, then definitely clay by hand so you don't ruin your pad. But if you don't mind using up a pad, then you can use a white polishing pad and that should remove almost everything a clay bar would in just one step. If you're doing it by hand, K-AIO will clean up SOME of the contamination but clay will be much more thorough. Perhaps claying some of the vehicle will save you time and money while delivering some nice results. Focus on the front bumper, the hood, the windshield, maybe some of the lower panels such as right behind the wheels. And then Klasse AIO the whole vehicle.
if paint is shot then why bother claying. why not wetsand it in places where clear coat is failing and polish it to lessen aperance of failure and put couple coats of selant? i dont know if it will work but i dont think you can do any more damage then there is already i dont clay all cars. i didnt clay my moms couse it needed to cleaned with paint cleaner anyway so why waste soap and then clean it anyway.
I would still rather do a quick claying than trying to remove everything just by compounding, polish or AIO. I find claying is impt and has its own place. It actually helps to smoothen the preping process and you may end up spending shorter time to get better work. Just me though..
I would definitely clay first to avoid either ruining a pad or getting something stuck in my pad and then ruining the paint on the next car. It doesn't have to be perfect. And make sure you bin the piece of clay when you are done.
Nothing like polishing a piping hot turd, and making it shine! I would clay it, there will be many cantominants that will adhere and cover the pad once you start.
I personally find it smoother to work when polishing after I clay but that's just me. I'm going to give the Neutragard ABC that richy has been recommending to see how that turns out. If it turns out well I'll buy richy a drink when I'm in windsor
I tried Valugard ABC twice but when I start claying at stage C, i still pick up significant amount of dirt. Not too sure was I doing anything wrong. I followed the instruction from what I read around here but the test was on really bad condition car.. But even though I still picked up significant dirt on stage C, water sheet off fast after AB.
Yeah your right. I ended up claying the car and using XMT360 . It actually came out OK. I didn't take a pictures of it because it really wasn't that big of a deal. Also the paint was really shot. My sis-in-law was amazed at how it came out which was pretty nice. Mike
