I have a potential client that has waterspots on his 99 red Cobra. The spots are very faint he had 2 other "pro" detailers work on the car. One charged him $150 and the other $100 and he is not happy. He called me and I went out to see the car. The waterspots are very faint, you can see where they etched into the clear. Using a PC what would you recommend I try? The other detailers left SWIRLS all over the car so I told him I can def take those out for him.
You can't go wrong with SIP and Super Finish combo. You may need a yellow pad with sip, then SF with a white pad....what color is the cobra. Also, remember, be very careful when polishing. Measure the paint if you can since you don't know how much clear the previous detailers have taken down. Make sure to let the client know that and have him sign a waiver. Last thing you want happening is being stuck with a repaint bill for someone else's poor technique and judgement...I've been there. Another thought is, you may not be able to do much more since you're using a PC. Try using a cyclo or a FLEX random orbital.
Sal, dude, here is your excuse to buy a rotary!! As far as the spots go, treat them like you treat ANY other defect you come in contact with. The least aggressive combo of pad/polish that works. That's the fun/science of our craft. I'm not familiar with that Super Finish product but it doesn't matter. As long as you have a decent range of compounds/polishes/pads then you'll be able to do it. VERY good advice about the paint thickness too!!! If you don't have one, you may consider passing on the job..it will not be worth the hassle, legal disclaimers or otherwise. Do you really want to get in a legal pissing match over someone's paint for the next few years? Pass if you don't have a gauge...if they left that many swirls, just imagine the technique they used..probably a wonder any cc is left at all. Good luck.
I just did a 99 Cobra that had water spots and oxidation. I used 105/205 and UF to get it back to its orignal water spot and oxidation free finish.
This is the exact method I would use^^^105/205 +UF to finish off :chips: Dang Sal, where you been man
Why remove clear first when you can get the water etch to release before polishing, CG water spot remover and lot's o rubbing then correct as needed.
Thanks Bob! All I need is another product to lug around! Do you apply by hand or could you use a PC and say a black pad to minimize cc removal?
Thanks everyone. I will be workin on the car next Saturday. Flash I have been working 60-75 hrs a week m-f and every other saturday. I have had a detail every day I have had off from work as well. Nothing but quick wash, clay, aio. I did detail an 11 yr old Harley that had some really bad oxidation and salt corrotion. An entire bag of steel wool, Meg Chrome rim polish and lots of patience lol. I wish I had the money for a rotary and new pads. Maybe one day...
Just got some of that in today after your recommendation, cant wait to try it out tomm and see how it works. Oh yeah it smells like, well just say it does not smell very good haha.
Hahaha, I always enjoy yours and Richy's humor. It's a tried and true combo, but it comes down to what you can do with it and what pads you use.:thumb:
