Need help with Black Please. (frustrated)

Hi everyone,

Ok so I don't know what's up today but I have been trying to polish a trunk I have from the junk yard just to keep in touch with black vehicles and I keep getting micromarring that I just simply cannot get rid off.

First I would compound Sonus yellow with PowerGloss then Sonus white with Power Finish then Micro Polish with a White Pad.

Then I tried, PG, PF and OPT Polish.
Then I tried Micro Polish with a Sonus White. That didn't work
Then I tried OPT Polish with Sonus White. That didn't work.
Then I tried Micro Polish with LC black pad. That didn't work
Then I tried PF with Sonus Blue. That didn't work.

I'm running out of ideas.

Do I need to add another Polish into the mix? Should it be PG, SIP, PF and then PO85RD?

I tried slowing down my arms when moving the buffer. I tried pyramiding at different rpms and nothing is working.

It is getting completely frustrating and I would love some help. If there was an emoticon for shoot insert it here.

Thanks in advance.

 

Be grateful it's a junkyard piece and not your own black car! Bruhahahaha. Black is beautiful ... and infinitely frustrating ... at least my black car is.

 

Try micropolish with either a uber or ccs blue pad. probably anywhere between 1200-1500 rpms.

 

Ok so I just tried SIP with white pad. That got rid of the heavy micro marring. Then i went to a white pad with 106FF and that actually put down more marring that to begin with. Sooo.... any suggestions

 

PO85RD and the Uber Blue pad should definitely do the trick. Owning a black car myself, it IS very frustrating trying to get it right... On my S4, I've found that Power Finish w/ green Uber pad, then PO85RD w/ blue Uber pad is a killer combo.

They key with finishing, or 'jeweling' is to finish at the lowest RPM setting with no pressure other than the weight of the polisher itself.

When I finish with 85RD, I work the polish in at 1, buff with moderate pressure at 3, then finish at 1 with no additional pressure.

 

I totally empathize. I recently bought a badly neglected F250 in black, and it gave me fits. I would think I had it perfect, and then, I'd drive it somewhere. Every single time, I'd walk out to the parking lot of wherever I'd driven to, and find something on it that still needed correction. It was infuriating. And I was wasting a lot of product.

A full writeup is coming in the next few days, as soon as I get through all the pictures. But in the meantime, I did figure some things out, with some excellent help from JL.

1. Some of the "holograms" I thought I'd created were actually trace amounts of polish residue. I'd rubbed down the panels with nice MFs and 50/50 IPA/water, but it still persisted. Two things helped clear them up. The first was DG 501. The second, which I tried today, was Meguiar's 135 "Final Inspection." This is a product that's going to become a staple for me. It really made removing polish residue a whole lot easier.

2. The final, money combination I ended up with for final correction was a yellow 3M UK polishing pad and Power Finish, at about 1700rpm, finishing it down at 1000. I worked the polish for a LONG time, it felt like forever.

Persevere. That which does not kill us makes us stronger! :support:

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys. I fixed the issue. Apparently it wasn't my buffing technique... it was the stupid MICROFIBER !

As krs said what doesn't kill us makes us stronger !

 

sounds like your using a pad and polish that is stronger than the paints abrasive resistance
Powergloss is seriously powerful and unless your a true pro, won't finish down marring free

I don't think you should use sonus pads, especially the pre polymers. they can leave marring if the technique is wrong.

start at 600. prep your pad, spread the product around with the machine off
then work at 600 for a few passes (30 seconds or so) then go up to 900, 1200, 1500 and then go back to 1200, 1000, 800 and 600 to finish, adding some water, black baron pad lube or a non silicone QD like gloss it or prima slick and then wipe off, do an IPA or prepsol wipedown and inspect

use SIP first, then 85RD. some paints due to their softness, just wont finish perfect with a rotary.
use a DA or RO to finish for a guaranteed swirl and hologram free finish

also make sure that the paint is chemically clean. prepsol it or use a dewaxer or TFR then clay it and do an IPA wipedown to remove any oils left behind by the clay lube

 

I never use a white pad with SIP, orange or yellow only. I then go to Nanopolish with a white pad, and sometimes I will finish with Ultrafina and a red pad. Remember when finishing use very very low rpms like 1000-1200.

John

 

What was your trouble shooting to cancel everything out down to the microfiber?

 

i had good luck with using menz intensive polish and green pad, then 106fa and white and 85rd and black pad and it works fine for me
then finishing iwth 115 and black pad and FMJ with blue pad