Correct- it is the solvents used in the carrier system that have not ompleatly outgassed As a wax ‘sets-up’, it goes through a number of stages. 1.The first stage is the application of the liquid product; friction will cleanse the dirt, oxidize ation, old waxes etc. In effect you are lifting the dirt away from the paintwork and into the liquid wax and then into the applicator. 2.The next stage is that you leave the wax to haze. This is where the solvents and oils out gas (evaporate) and leave the resin and fillers behind to dry and set-up on the paint. 3.Next you remove the excess. Anything that is now not bonded to the paint will be wiped away with the buffing towel and as you wipe away you will end up giving the resin a slight buff to bring out its gloss 4.A good technique is to buff the wax with a 100% cotton micro fibre cloth and then spritz the paintwork with very cold distilled water and wipe down, this helps to set the wax and will add that little extra gloss. Allow the solvents to vaporize (outgas) in the sun’s heat and then buff to a gloss.
what are some of the typical solvents and oil use in wax? so the solvents help dissolve the oil? I would imagine it's hard for the oil to vaporize along in it's original form. thanks for the chemistry talk!
never would have thought that about cold distilled water, definitely trying that on the truck when I wax it tonight.
Definitely worth it. I just tried this after applying RBOE and it made a world of difference. It removed the hazing left behind (where two different QDs did not) and added gloss. My only question is, is it better to spray the distilled water immediately after removal or hours later after the wax has cured?